THE ROLLING BALL.
There are several modifications of this trick, or rather there are several feats all performed with this instrument—a globe of wood or other material some two feet in diameter. One of these feats consists in the dog standing with his hind feet upon the ground, and resting his paws on the ball, pushing it forward, or up and down an inclined plane. This is easily taught, and the only difficult part of the performance is the descent of the inclined plane, where the ball is apt to roll away from the animal. To teach this trick it is only requisite to place the dog’s paws upon the ball and set it slowly in motion; as you do this tap his hind legs gently from behind to urge him to step forward. It may be necessary to hold him in position by the nape of the neck at first, but he should very soon learn to retain his position without this aid. When he rolls the ball readily upon a level, substitute a wide plank very slightly inclined, up which he should be required to roll the ball. Increase the inclination of the plank slightly with each lesson, but the descent should only be attempted after he has been thoroughly drilled in the preceding exercises. It will be necessary to commence with a very slight inclination and to promptly stop the ball should the dog begin to lose control of it. The width of the plank may be decreased eventually to some ten or twelve inches.
To stand entirely upon the ball while it is in motion, and to propel it backward and forward, and up and down the inclined plane, starting and stopping it as well as guiding its motions in the desired direction—is a more difficult feat. In this the dog must be practiced in standing upon the ball while it has no motion; in several lessons in this just the barest possible motion is to be given to the ball while a slight hold upon the dog’s neck keeps him in position. The motion may be slowly increased with each lesson, but the ball must for many lessons be held firmly with the hand to prevent it becoming unmanageable. When the dog becomes able to maintain his position he may be required to manage the ball without any assistance. In all cases where he gets down from the ball, accidentally or willfully, he should be spoken to sharply, but the trainer should be equally prompt to praise and reward success.
TO WALK ON STILTS.
The stilts used in this trick are about twelve or fifteen inches in length, made to fasten to the leg just below the knee joint, with tape or thin flexible leather straps. When four are used there is no particular training required to make the dog walk upon them; it being only necessary to put him “on his pins” again whenever he upsets. The tumble is sufficient punishment for his failures. Walking man fashion on only two stilts is a much more difficult task, though it has been accomplished in some cases. The dog should be first thoroughly taught the walking erect trick, then stilts may be put on his hind legs. A cord attached to his collar and held in the trainer’s hand will aid in maintaining the dog’s balance until he becomes accustomed to his novel position. Of course the dog cannot raise himself upon the stilts, but must be placed erect by the trainer. The farther training is similar to that described for teaching him to walk erect. A story is told of a dog who actually found a wooden leg of practical use; one having been furnished him by a whimsical surgeon who had amputated an injured limb for him.
TO GO UP AND DOWN A LADDER.
CLIMBING THE LADDER.
In teaching this trick two ladders should be provided about six feet in length and joined together at the top ends so as to form an angle when the other ends are placed on the ground. The bars of these ladders should be flat and sufficiently near together to enable the dog easily to step from one round to another. Standing at the side of this ladder with a switch in your right hand you whistle to the dog, or call him by name, and tap the first round of the ladder with your switch to indicate he is to step upon it. When he places his fore paws on this round, tap the next in the same manner, saying, “Go on,” to him. If he does not obey strike his hind legs lightly from behind, while you encourage him with your voice and snap your fingers in front of him to urge him forward. A tid-bit of some kind held in tempting proximity to his nose may have an encouraging effect. After ascending one ladder he should be made to go down the other. He will be inclined to jump to the ground in preference to descending step by step; should he do this he must be punished and made to commence over again. When on the ladder if he hesitates about proceeding gently tap the toes of the foot he should next advance. When two dogs have been taught to go over the ladders a race may be arranged, the dog who first goes three times over to be rewarded. The dogs will soon understand that when they are both ordered to go over, speed is expected; the dainty given to the winner will be an incentive to exertion. By making one dog go up to where the ladders join, turning half around and forming an arch of his body, the other dog can go over the ladders, passing beneath the belly of the “arch.” This is a very trifling feat but it generally pleases an audience.
The ladder climbing forms really the principal part of the celebrated siege scene, performed by dogs and monkeys. This scene, we believe, was first enacted in London in the year 1753, by a troupe of dogs and monkeys which acquired considerable celebrity by their performances. They were owned by a lady, who had also taught them, and went by the name of Mrs. Midnight’s Animal Commedians. A small stage was specially fitted up for their performances, furnished with scenery, decorations, etc., and to these adjuncts was no doubt due much of the success of the troupe. The performance was much like modern ones; the tricks are all included in this chapter and the one on monkeys; the famous siege being only a clever combination of the different tricks. Each animal was taught a particular part and merely obeyed the signals of the exhibition.