By general consent soaps containing rosin are unsuitable for use by woollen manufacturers, as they produce sticky insoluble lime and magnesia compounds which are deposited upon the fibres, and give rise to unevenness in the dyeing.
A neutral olive-oil soft soap is undoubtedly the best for the purpose of wool scouring, as, owing to its ready solubility in water, it quickly penetrates the fibres, is easily washed out, and produces a good "feel" so essential in the best goods, and tends to preserve the lustre and pliability of the fibre.
The high price of olive-oil soap, however, renders its use prohibitive for lower class goods, and in such cases no better soap can be suggested than the old-fashioned curd mottled or curd soaps (boiled very dry), as free as possible from uncombined caustic alkali. The raw wool, after this cleansing operation, is oiled with olive oil or oleine, prior to spinning; after spinning and weaving, the fabric, in the form of yarn or cloth, has to be scoured to free it from oil. The soap in most general use for scouring woollen fabrics is neutral oleine-soda soap. Some manufacturers prefer a cheap curd soap, such as is generally termed "second curd," and in cases where lower grades of wools are handled, the user is often willing to have soap containing rosin (owing to its cheapness) and considers a little alkalinity desirable to assist in removing the oil.
Another operation in which soap is used, is that of milling or fulling, whereby the fabric is made to shrink and thus becomes more compact and closer in texture. The fabric is thoroughly cleansed, for which purpose the soap should be neutral and free from rosin and silicates, otherwise a harsh feeling or stickiness will be produced. Curd soaps or finely-fitted soaps made from tallow or bleached palm oil, with or without the addition of cocoa-nut oil, give the best results. All traces of soap must be carefully removed if the fabric is to be dyed.
The woollen dyer uses soap on the dyed pieces to assist the milling, and finds that a good soap, made from either olive oil, bleached palm oil, or tallow, is preferable, and, although it is generally specified to be free from alkali, a little alkalinity is not of consequence, for the woollen goods are, as a rule, acid after dyeing, and this alkalinity would be instantly neutralised.
2. Cotton Industry.—Cotton fibres are unacted upon by caustic alkali, so that the soap used in cleaning and preparing cotton goods for dyeing need not be neutral, in fact alkalinity is a distinct advantage in order to assist the cleansing.
Any curd soap made from tallow, with or without the addition of a small quantity of cocoa-nut oil, may be advantageously used for removing the natural oil.
In cotton dyeing, additions of soap are often made to the bath, and in such cases the soap must be of good odour and neutral, lest the colours should be acted upon and tints altered. Soaps made from olive oil and palm oil are recommended. The same kind of soap is sometimes used for soaping the dyed cotton goods.
The calico-printer uses considerable quantities of soap for cleansing the printed-cloths. The soap not only cleanses by helping to remove the gummy and starchy constituents of the adhering printing paste, but also plays an important part in fixing and brightening the colours. Soaps intended for this class of work must be quite neutral (to obviate any possible alteration in colour by the action of free alkali), free from objectionable odour and rosin, and readily soluble in water. These qualities are possessed by olive-oil soaps, either soft or hard. A neutral olive-oil soft soap, owing to its solubility in cold water, may be used for fibres coloured with most delicate dyes, which would be fugitive in hot soap solutions, and this soap is employed for the most expensive work.
Olive-oil curd (soda) soaps are in general use; those made from palm oil are also recommended, although they are not so soluble as the olive-oil soaps. Tallow curd soaps are sometimes used, but the difficulty with which they dissolve is a drawback, and renders them somewhat unsuitable.