Kathay: A Cruise in the China Seas

by W. Hastings Macaulay

Getting clear, at length, of this crowd of feminines, "presto" was the word, and away we bowled along one of the most beautiful roads I have ever seen. The foliage was luxuriant, the air of the early morning cool and refreshing, and filled with fragrance. The road (a natural one) even as a bowling green.

A drive of about one hour brought us to the river. I forget its name; it is a small stream flowing into the Bay of Manilla at Cavitè, where we found the float formed of bamboo, which is drawn across by ropes (?) made of the same material. By this means that immense concourse of women had been transported, and great as is my devotion and subjection to their charms, should have declined the office of ferryman, after the morning's rencontre.

A sudden shower prevented our making a long stay at this romantic spot, and also interfered with a contemplated visit to a manufactory of Manilla cordage in the neighborhood.

Breakfast was awaiting our return at the hotel, at half-past nine, and this dispatched, spent some time expecting a permit to visit the "Fabrica del Tobago," in which being disappointed, made our cochero drive us through the suburbs. As I have before stated, these form the principal part of the town, and are of considerable extent, but the houses in them are generally constructed of bamboo.

There are a number built of stone, but many of them were in a dilapidated condition.

In the after part of the day drove again to the Calçada, where we spent the evening passing up and down, and occasionally slipping out of place in the line when we could escape the vigilant eye of the guard, to enable us to pass the equipage and to see the face of "some gay beauty," the exquisite shape of whose neck and shoulders had tempted us to risk fine and imprisonment for the sake of a "front view."

After a refreshing sleep, which was superinduced by a glorious shower bath, and made doubly delicious by the remembrance of the glances of the beauties of the Prado, which, like fire-flies, flitted through our dreams, started again upon the Balsa road with an intention of visiting the "Rope factory," from seeing which the rain deterred us yesterday.

Our command to the cochero upon his mounting, was a la Balsa, trusting to be able to direct him on the way, but as we depended somewhat upon the fellow's knowledge of the proper place to turn off, found ourselves again disappointed, for the confounded postillion either could not or would not find the road, and out to the ferry again he drove us, in spite of my teeth, and all the Spanish I could get through them. I rather thought he made ignorance a plea for unwillingness, until I afterwards learned that these men, the cocheros, who are a class sui generis, being of the Indian race, understand but little more of the Spanish language than what they pick up at hotels, in the way of their profession—their own tongue being the Tagalo, of which tribe they are generally natives. My vanity somewhat soothed by this information, after breakfasting drove within the walls of the city, and entered the "city of Manilla," little more now than a citadel for the surrounding population. These walls are in themselves thick and massive, and cover a considerable space in their foundation, although the area which they inclose is not so great as it appears from the bay. Within them the houses are of a better style of architecture than those of the suburbs, and the streets through which I drove were well graded, even and clean; but life was wanting here, and the solitary soldier at his post was the only thing human I saw; however, my visit was not well timed, being at the hour when the Señoras are supposed to be taking their siestas, and my object was merely to see what kind of a place it was. Upon a future occasion saw it to more advantage.

I refer to my diary, from which make the following extracts.

Monday, the eighteenth of February.—Returned on board from another trip to the shore, last night at twelve, and have seen so many sights, that I scarcely know in what manner to record them; perhaps the best plan is to detail them, seriatim.