CHAPTER XVI.
Shanghae—Immense number of Junks—Foreign Residences—Novelty of Chimneys—Revolting appearance of Beggars—Undertakers—Price of Coffins—Decline Trading—Description of City—Stagnant Pools—Tea Gardens—Sweet Site—The Taoutae—Advantages of Shanghae—Departure—Ship Ashore!—Sensation.
Shanghae is situated in about 30° 26' N. latitude; longitude 120° 48' East. Reached it on the 16th of May, and came to anchor about one mile below its walls, off the dwellings of the foreign residents. As we approached, were struck with the appearance of a forest of masts, belonging to junks in front of the city; in fact, these were all we could see, as they completely shut out a view of the city from our position.
Although suffering from sickness, could not resist the desire to get on shore, and accordingly landed amongst the residents' houses the first opportunity. These are built entirely in the European style, and some of them present a fine appearance. The climate in the winter season compelling the use of fire, they are all provided with chimneys, which was a feature remarkable at once, it being unusual on the southern coast. From these houses, as you approach the city, you enter upon a scene of filth and dirt indescribable, and have to pass through a line of beggars, who exhibit the most loathsome and revolting sores, to excite the pity of the passer-by.
In approaching the city, had to skirt a graveyard, where the coffins are placed above ground, and left there until their contents are decomposed, when they are removed, to make place for others. In the neighborhood are numerous coffin makers, and the trade appears to be thriving, from the numbers engaged at it. Our guide informed me that I could procure one of these "accommodations" at prices varying from five to five hundred dollars. I declined trading for them, however, considering that a negotiation to be entered into by "sorrowing friends."
Entered the city through a double gateway, having had to cross a fetid, shallow ditch before the walls.
Shanghae is a walled city, and in its appearance much like other Chinese towns, only it was more filthy than any I had yet visited. Crossed a number of stagnant pools, over bridges much too good for such stinking streams, being, in their architecture, entirely out of keeping with the other properties. Saw a great many Tea Gardens, where the tea was dispensed by the cup; and when a Chinaman called for a cup, it was perhaps in the same spirit that some of our country men demand a "smaller" of brandy, rum, or gin, though the Celestial certainly imbibes the least noxious potion. One of these gardens formed the centre of a stagnant pool, and was reached by bridges from different points. A fantastic-looking temple appeared the rendezvous, and upon the whole the effect would have been pleasing, but for that sickly green water.
Visited several shops, and made a few purchases of "curios" and was then perfectly satisfied to get out of such a filthy hole.
The day after his arrival, our commander and suite paid an official visit to the Taoutae,—Lead man of the district,—and was well received. The Chinese who held this office had been an old Hong merchant at Canton. He gave the entertainment in the European style; and from having consorted so much with "Fankwies," in his former capacity, he was quite at home; but you may depend upon it, it is always with much reluctance that these Celestial citizens of the Central Flowery Land dispense with any of their customs in our favor; and when they do condescend to lay aside their chop-sticks, and use the knife and fork, there is policy in it. What was the object in this instance, further than to honor a nation where "gold grows," I did not ascertain. But we have undoubtedly risen greatly in their estimation since the acquisition of California, and the appearance of our magnificent clipper ships in their waters.