Our only amusements here were strolling over the hills, and sauntering through Bamboo and Newtown—the novelty of which places having some time worn off—and passing away the evening at the bowling alleys, and billiard room, where prices were high and refreshments execrable. However, here we got exercise even at a high rate; and this exercise is considered so desirable, that persons from Canton—a distance of ten miles—resort to this place.
From Whampoa departed for Hong-Kong, where found a number of old friends. We arrived there upon Coronation day, which was being celebrated with all honor. The Queen—God bless her!—was toasted, and the healths of the King consort, and all the royal family drunk. In the evening, the devotion of her loyal subjects was expended in a brilliant display of fireworks, which was untimely quenched by a sudden shower.
Celebrated our own "Independence day" for the second time in China, whilst we lay in the harbor of Hong-Kong; and H. B. M. frigate Cleopatra, and brig Lily, were dressed, and fired national salutes with us;—a pretty compliment, and as it should be. An editor in Hong-Kong made it the subject of unseemly remark, but am confident he had not the countenance of one of his subscribers. A dinner was given in honor of the occasion at our Consul's. It was a splendid affair, several lady residents of Hong-Kong gracing the board with their presence. The gentlemen kept it up long after they had retired, and the union of the States was cemented,—representatives from nearly all being present,—amongst the hours
"Ayont the twal."
We lay at anchor off Hong-Kong until the eleventh of July, when received orders to proceed over to Macào, and join our consort there. I was out of the ship when the orders came, and of course knew nothing about them; had spent the evening on board H. M. S. S. Minden, where I occupied the state-room of an absent officer, an acquaintance. The next morning, whilst breakfasting, my attention was directed, through the port, to some unusual movement on board our ship; such as a boat being dispatched to the Cleopatra, sending aloft topgallant yards, and unshipping the companion ladder. This last movement was decisive. Sailing orders must be on: and bringing my meal to a hasty conclusion, got on board to find the messenger shipped, and all hands heaving away at the capstan. Soon we had sail on, and I did not get on board a minute too soon to secure a passage to Macào.
After reaching that port, and concluding the business for which we had been summoned, received permission to exchange our rolling and pitching in the outer roads, for the snug and quiet anchorage in the Typa; and our old pleasant trips to the shore were again resumed: rambles along the Governor's Road, and over the hills, filling up the afternoons of "liberty days," and suppers at "Frank's"—Hotel—at night adding considerably to the amount of monthly mess bills.
The arrival of the mail was always an event with us; and this month—August—it reached Macào unusually early, having been received on the eighth day: just fifty-eight days from New-York. I do not know what we would have done without this mail, the anticipation of its arrival keeping our minds occupied, and the business of answering letters and mailing them filling up the monthly intervals. We closed our correspondence in the last week of the month, expecting dates from home during the first week of the next.
Whilst we lay in the Typa had strong indications of a Ty-foong, but it passed over with some bad weather, high winds, and squalls. Felt perfectly secure at our anchorage, but used the precaution of bending the sheet-cables, sending down yards, and housing topgallant-masts. As it was, had considerable of a blow, and the Ty-foong ravaged the coasts in our vicinity.
The Ty-foong of the East is synonymous with the hurricane or tornado of the West Indies, as the monsoon may be said to assimilate with the trade-winds of the opposite hemisphere; but this "strong wind" blows with even more violence, and has a circular motion. Ships have had their masts bodily twisted out of them, and many, more unfortunate, have been ingulfed in the maelstrom created by its fury. From its veering so suddenly to every point of the compass, the usual precautions against ordinary gales afford but little protection. A heavy, boding swell precedes, to give notice of the dreaded Ty-foong. The aquatic birds, with natural instinct, take wing and fly before its approach; whilst on shore the air is filled with insects in constant motion. So indicative, indeed, is this flight of insects, that the Chinese call them Ty-foong Bugs.
The inhabitants predicate the recursion of these storms by numerous other signs, and are prompt to take every precaution to avoid their effects. At Macào, upon this occasion, the proprietors of the "Tanka" and "pull away" boats drew them on shore, some distance from the landing, and close to the houses. In these, the boat folk, men, women, and children, stowed themselves away, prepared to weather the Ty-foong. The walls of the dwellings on the Praya forming a good lee, they lashed their boats as well as they were able, and secured the bamboo coverings. Not a boatman could be prevailed upon to launch his craft for love or money. Some of them, indeed, from the habit of their profession, would say, "Suppose have give ten, twelve dollar, so;" but if you appeared for an instant to incline to their extortionate demand, they would at once change their tune, and shaking both head and tail,—please to remember that Chinese boatmen have tails to their heads,—cry out, with deprecatory gestures, "Ei-yah! how can make walkee? my tinkee can catchee too muchee Ti-fung!" and then slide back beneath their bamboo shelter, with a decisive "No can!"