CHAPTER XXVII.
Land at Cape Town—Hotels and Widows—Drive to Constantia—Description of Drive—Price of Wine—Manumission of Slaves—Seasons at the Cape—The Town through a Microscope, &c. &c.
Landed at Cape Town on a fine jetty, which projects some distance into the bay. This, with another about a mile above, are the only landing places. Stopped at "Parke's Hotel," at its head. This is kept by a widow lady, and a spruce dandy of a mulatto superintends its internal arrangements in the capacity of steward. There are two other hotels,—"The Masonic," and "Welch's,"—and a club-house. I believe all the houses of entertainment here have widows at their head—Sam Weller's injunction needed here—"Parke's" I know to be; "Welch's," I think, is; and two "Widows," at least in name, being man and wife with that appellation, spread forth the good things at "The Masonic;" and I have heard there are no bereavements there.
After a fine bath,—my first care in every port,—took a stroll through the town. There is at the head of the street, on which the hotel was situated, a splendid wide avenue, planted with rows of majestic oaks, their branches meeting overhead. This extends over one mile; on one side of it is the Governor's Palace and grounds, cut off from vulgar feet by a moat, or walled ditch, and accessible by a small drawbridge from the avenue. Opposite is a Botanical Garden.
With a party from the ship, hired a splendid barouche and team, and drove out to "Constantia," about thirteen miles, where the wine is made. It is a most beautiful drive, lined on either side by English country-houses, with surrounding grounds, intersected by broad avenues, smooth roads and walks, with green lawns spreading out around them, covered with close-clipped oak trees.
The drive was rather dusty, which somewhat detracted from its pleasure; but a shower of rain opportunely coming up, made the return more agreeable.
Passed through a number of villages, among them Wynberg,—a nourishing, pretty place. Saw a great number of school-houses and churches; but taverns, "licensed to sell spirituous liquors," as appeared upon their signs, were most numerous on this road. A small chapel was being built, which, from its dimensions, supposed to be of the established church, and no increase of congregation expected.
Visited the Vinery of S. Van Renen & Co., High Constantia. Was well received, although the coachman drove us to the wrong place; and we handed him a letter addressed to a Mr. Colyin, a neighbor, thinking it to be his place.
The grape season was over: wine had been all pressed and stowed away. They gather the grape in March, but it is allowed to become almost a raisin on the stem before it is plucked. Tasted these wines; found them sweet and luscious, too much so for my palate. This peculiar flavor is caused by the condition of the grape when pressed.