Life on the Congo

by W. Holman Bentley

In June, 1879, Mr. Comber returned with three helpers, of whom the writer was one. We made our first station at San Salvador, the old capital of the Congo country, about seventy miles south of the highest navigable point of the Lower Congo. The natives of the upper river bring their ivory and produce in canoes to Stanley Pool, and there all has to change hands, as the river is not further navigable. The natives of the cataract region buy at the Pool, and convey to the white men on the coast. One of the great trade routes passes close to San Salvador, and we hoped that these traders might carry our stores and help us to Stanley Pool. They, however, steadily and persistently refused to allow us to go to the Pool, in spite of all we told them of our errand. ‘No,’ they said; ‘you white men stay on the coast, we will bring the produce to you there; but if you go to the Pool you will know our markets and buy where we do; our trade will be lost; then how shall we obtain our guns and powder, beads and brass, crockery-ware, and knives, cloth, and all the fine things we get now? No, we will never let you pass our towns; and if you persist you will be killed.’ They could not conceive of people who were not traders.

We built a stone house, and were getting on nicely in our work at San Salvador, but beyond the king’s territory we were blocked by the native traders. Thirteen attempts were made, first on one road and then on another, until Mr. Comber was attacked, and shot. He was able to escape, and the slug was extracted.

Then followed long palavering, and at last the road was declared open. Meanwhile, we learned that Mr. Stanley had returned to the Congo, and was engaged in making a road from Vivi, on the north bank of the Congo, from the point where the river ceased to be navigable. He was said to be acting for the King of the Belgians, and to have instructions to open up communications between the coast and Stanley Pool. This was good news indeed. Next we learned that a M. de Brazza, who had for a long time been exploring inland from the Ogowe River, near the Equator, had come down on to the Upper Congo, thence to Stanley Pool, and by the north bank to the coast. As the south bank road was declared open, it was determined that Messrs. Comber and Hartland should once more try it, while Mr. Crudgington and I should attempt the north bank. The south bank party met with a repulse in a few days; on the north bank we were more fortunate. We found that Mr. Stanley’s steamer road extended as far as Isangila, a distance of about fifty miles from Vivi. There we found his advanced party; beyond was unknown land. De Brazza must have kept far from the river, for we were soon among people who had never seen a white man, while there was so little intercommunication between the people that no one knew of Mr. Stanley’s approach a day’s march beyond his camp. We were therefore able to take the people by surprise; and when we reached the districts of the ivory traders, they were bewildered at our sudden, unexpected advent, not having any idea of white men trying to reach the upper river; they had not recovered from their astonishment before we had passed on. So, sleeping in quiet places, and travelling rapidly in this way, we were able to reach the Pool, and visited Ntamu, where now Leopoldville and our Arthington Station are established. Having accomplished all that we desired, and ascertained the correct geographical position of Stanley Pool, we returned. It was a risky, adventurous, anxious journey, but we accomplished it in safety, and were thus the first who had made the journey from the coast to Stanley Pool.

We found that our brethren of the Livingstone Mission had established their advanced post at Mbemba, on the banks of the Congo, about eighty miles from Vivi.

Mr. Crudgington came to this country, to consult with the Committee of the Society, and to get a steel sectional boat, according to Mr. Stanley’s advice. He hoped to be able to navigate a reach of about ninety miles of the cataract region, from Isangila to Manyanga, a distance of only eighty-five miles from Stanley Pool; he advised us to do the same. Mr. Crudgington brought out the boat, the Plymouth, which we transported to Isangila, and then were able to establish ourselves beside the International Association at Manyanga.

After a few months Mr. Stanley kindly offered us a fine site at Stanley Pool, which we gladly accepted and occupied in the autumn of 1882, calling it Arthington Station.

Some months after, the Livingstone Mission arrived, and obtained a site from the International Association. Thus far, the two missions are arranged alternately along the line. Each manages its own transport service, which is a severe task on those who have to attend to it—so severe, indeed, that we cannot arrange ourselves so that each might help the other, although we should like to do so; but, as it is, we can find sufficient carriers, and maintain the transport in an effective manner. When the natives saw that we were transporting by water, and thus avoiding their opposition, they opened the roads, and were willing to carry. We therefore gladly relinquished the cataract water, and now all is conveyed from Underhill, our first station on the south bank, nearly opposite Vivi, to Stanley Pool, a distance of about 225 miles.

SECTION OF THE MISSION BOAT PLYMOUTH.

Everything is carried on men’s heads from station to station. The Baptist Mission has four stations between the coast and Stanley Pool inclusive. The fifth station, San Salvador, is off the line. The Livingstone Mission has six stations up to the Pool. A Portuguese Roman Catholic mission soon followed us to San Salvador, but they have not been able to do much to trouble us.