My object in thus expressing this difference will be understood upon a little reflection. The volatile oils, when heated, being distilled without change are uncookable; while the fixed oils if similarly heated suffer various degrees of change as their temperature is raised, and may be completely decomposed by steady application of heat in a closed vessel without the aid of any other chemical agent than the heat itself. This ‘destructive distillation’ converts them into solid carbon and hydro-carbon gases, somewhat similar to those we obtain by the destructive distillation of coal.
If we watch the changes occurring as the heat advances to this complete dissociation point we may observe a minor or partial dissociation proceeding gradually onward, resembling that which I have already described as occurring when sugar is similarly treated ([Chapter VII.] [page 87]).
But in ordinary cooking we do not go so far as to carbonise the fat itself, though we do brown or partially carbonise the membrane which envelopes the fat. What then is the nature of this minor dissociation, if such occurs?
Before giving my answer to this question I must explain the chemical constitution of fat. It is a compound of a very weak base with very weak acids. The basic substance is glycerine, the acids (not sour at all, but so named because they combine with bases as the actually sour acids do) are stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, &c., and bear the general name of ‘fatty acids.’ They are solid or liquid, according to temperature. When solid they are pearly crystalline substances, when fused they are oily liquids.
To simplify, I will take one of these as a type, and that the one which is the chief constituent of animal fats, viz. stearic acid. I have a lump of it before me. Newly broken through, it might at a distance be mistaken for a piece of Carrara marble. It is granular, like the marble, but not so hard, and, when rubbed with the hand, differs from the marble in betraying its origin by a small degree of unctuousness, but it can scarcely be described as greasy.
I find by experiment that this may be mixed with glycerine without combination taking place, that when heated with glycerine just to its fusing point, and the two are agitated together, the combination is by no means complete. Instead of obtaining a soft, smooth fat, I obtain a granular fat small stearic crystals with glycerine amongst them. It is a mixture of stearic acid and glycerine, not a chemical compound; it is stearic acid and glycerine, but not a stearate of glycerine or glycerine stearate.
A similar separation is what I suppose to occur in the cooking of animal fat. I find that mutton-fat, beef-fat, or other fat when raw is perfectly smooth, as tested by rubbing a small quantity, free from membrane, between the finger and thumb, or by the still more delicate test of rubbing it between the tip of the tongue and the palate. But dripping, whether of beef, or mutton, or poultry, is granular, as anybody who has ever eaten bread and dripping knows well enough, and the manufacturers of ‘butterine,’ or ‘bosch,’ know too well, the destruction or prevention of this granulation being one of the difficulties of their art.
My theory of the cookery of fat is simply that heat, when continued long enough, or raised sufficiently high, effects an incipient dissociation of the fatty acids from the glycerine, and thus assists the digestive organs by presenting the base and the acids in a condition better fitted (or advanced by one stage) for the new combinations demanded by assimilation. Some physiologists have lately asserted that the fat of our food is not assimilated at all—not laid down again as fat, but is used directly as fuel for the maintenance of animal heat.
If this is correct, the advantage of the preliminary dissociation is more decided, for the combustible portion of the fat is its fatty acids; the glycerine is an impediment to combustion, so much so that the modern candle-maker removes it, and thereby greatly improves the combustibility of his candles.
It may be that the glycerine of the fat we eat is assimilated like sugar, while the fatty acids act directly as fuel. This view may reconcile some of the conflicting facts (such as the existence of fat in the carnivora) that stand in the way of the theory of the uses of fat food above referred to, according to which fat is not fattening, and those who would ‘Bant’ should eat fat freely to maintain animal heat, while very abstemious in the consumption of sugar and farinaceous food.