257. Nor do the fastest dogs, however well they may be broken, always truly hunt the most ground. The slower dogs have frequently finer olfactory nerves than their fleeter rivals,—therefore the parallels on which the former work, may correctly be much wider apart than the parallels of the latter. The finer nose in this manner commands so much more ground, that it beats the quicker heels out and out.
258. You will see, then, how judicious it is to show forbearance and give encouragement to the timid, but high-bred class[42] of dogs described in [116]; for it is obvious that, though they may travel slower, yet they may really hunt properly, within a specified time, many more acres of ground than their hardier and faster competitors: and it is certain that they will not so much alarm the birds. Dogs that are most active with their heels are generally least busy with their noses.
CHAPTER IX.
FIRST LESSON IN SEPTEMBER CONTINUED. “POINT” NOT RELINQUISHED FOR “DOWN CHARGE.”
[259]. Affection makes Dog anxious to please—when he rushes in to be dragged back.—[260]. Rule pressed.—[261]. Reason for Rule—Experience anticipated.—[262]. To “stand” far off—Pointer procuring shots at black game, but raising Grouse.—[263]. Patience enjoined—Not to part as enemies.—[264]. The first good point—Remain yourself stationary.—[265]. “Heading” Dog—Your circle to be wide. The first bird killed.—[266]. Finding dead bird, it being to Leeward.—[267]. Pointing it—Blinking it—The cause.—[268]. Woodcock lost from Dog not “pointing dead.”—[269]. Bird killed, the Dog to go to “heel.”—[270]. Supposed objection.—[271]. Answered.—[272]. Temptation to run after fallen bird greater than to run to “heel.”—[273]. Dog pointing one bird, and after “down charge” springing the others. The cause.—[274]. The preventive. Dog never to discontinue his point in order to “down charge.” How taught.—[275]. Its advantages exemplified.—[276]. Decide whether Dog goes direct to bird, or first to you.—[277]. Dog which performed well. Snipe-shooting on banks of Richlieu.—[278]. Coolness recommended. Inconsistency deprecated.
259. To proceed, however, with our imaginary September day’s work. I will suppose that your young dog has got upon birds, and that from his boldness and keenness in hunting you need not let him run riot on a haunt, as you were recommended (in [132]), when you wished to give courage and animation to a timid dog. You must expect that his eagerness and delight will make him run in and flush them, even though you should have called out “Toho” when first you perceived his stern begin feathering, and thence judged that his olfactory nerves were rejoicing in the luxurious taint of game. Hollo out “Drop” most energetically. If he does not immediately lie down, crack your whip loudly to command greater attention. When you have succeeded in making him lie down, approach him quietly: be not angry with him, but yet be stern in manner. Grasping the skin of his neck, or what is better, putting your hand within his collar (for he ought to wear a light one), quietly drag him to the precise spot where you think he was first aware of the scent of the birds. There make him stand, (if stand he will, instead of timidly crouching), with his head directed towards the place from which the birds took wing, and by frequently repeating the word “Toho,” endeavour to make him understand that he ought to have pointed at that identical spot. Do not confuse him by even threatening to beat him. The chances are twenty to one that he is anxious to please you, but does not yet know what you wish. I assume also that he is attached to you, and his affection, from constantly inducing him to exert himself to give satisfaction, will greatly develop his observation and intelligence.
FIRST FIND.