Old Mackinaw; Or, The Fortress of the Lakes and its Surroundings

by W. P. Strickland

"The present southern gate of Fort Mackinac overlooks the spot, where in olden times a door existed, to the entrance of the subterraneous abode of these Giant Fairies. An Indian Chees-a-kee, or spiritualist, who once encamped within the limits of the present garrison, related, that some time during the night, after he had fallen asleep, a fairy touched him and beckoned him to follow. He obeyed and his spirit went with the fairy; they entered the subterraneous abode, through an opening beneath the present gate near the base of the hill. He there witnessed the giant spirits in solemn conclave in what appeared to be a large beautiful wigwam. After being there some time, lost in wonder and admiration, the chief spirit directed one of the lesser ones, to show the Indian spirit out and conduct him back to his body. This Indian could never be induced to divulge the particulars of what he witnessed in his mysterious visit.

"An old Indian chief upon leaving this island, to visit his friends in Lake Superior, thus soliloquized, as he sat on the deck of McKnight's splendid steamer, the Illinois, while the darkness began dimly to shadow forth the deep blue outlines of the island:

"'Moc-che-ne-mock-e-nug-gonge, thou Isle of the clear, deep-water Lake, how, soothing it is from amidst the curling smoke of my opawgun (pipe), to trace thy deep blue outlines in the distance; to call from memory's tablets the traditions and stories connected with thy sacred and mystic character, how sacred the regard, with which thou hast been once clothed by our Indian seers of gone-by days; how pleasant in imagination for the mind to picture and view, as if now present, the time when the Great Spirit allowed a peaceful stillness to dwell around thee, when only light and balmy winds were permitted to pass over thee, hardly ruffling the mirror surface of the waters that surrounded thee. Nothing then disturbed thy quiet and deep solitude, but the chippering of birds, and the rustling of the leaves of the silver-barked birch; or to hear, by evening twilight the sound of the giant Fairies as they with rapid step, and giddy whirl, dance their mystic dance on thy lime-stone battlements.'

"Several old buildings are now standing, the frames of which were brought from old Mackinaw in the year 1764, which gives an odd and venerable appearance to the village. Mr. Schoolcraft had the door of Marquette's Chapel pointed out to him, which had been brought over from Mackinaw, and hung to one of the edifices of the town.

"The village formerly received its greatest support from the fur trade, when in the hands of the late John Jacob Astor, Esq., being, at that time, the outfitting and furnishing place for the Indian trade. His outfits extended then to the head waters of the Mississippi, on the northwest, south to Chicago, southwest by the way of Green Bay, to the Mississippi, and Missouri Rivers, in fact his business was carried on throughout all the then northwest Indian country. This trade became extinct in 1834, when Mr. Astor sold out to Ramsey Crooks, Esq., of New York, and others, but it lacked the energy and controlling influence which had been characteristic of Mr. Astor's business, and after languishing a few years, the new company became involved and their outposts were discontinued.

"The place since then has been mostly supported from the fisheries, which are excellent and extensive. It is estimated that twenty thousand barrels of white fish and trout are exported from this country alone annually, estimated worth, at this point, about one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. A material support is also derived from the immense amount of trade.

"The population is fluctuating, owing to the influx of strangers seeking health, traders, and Indians; but the permanent inhabitants of the village are about one thousand and fourteen, as per census of 1854.

"Fort Mackinac stands on a rocky eminence immediately above the town, and is at present garrisoned by a company of United States troops: a chaplain (Episcopalian) is attached to the garrison, and services are held there every Sabbath. Fort Holmes occupies the highest bluff of the island, and is not at present occupied: this fortress was erected by the English, while they held possession of the island, during the last war, and by them named Fort George. But after the surrender of the island in 1814, the name was altered in compliment to the memory of Major Holmes of the United States Army, who fell in the unfortunate attack upon the island by Col. Croghan. The gallant Holmes was killed a little below the rise of ground, as you descend toward the Dousman farm-house, on your way to the British landing. On Fort Holmes is a triangular station for the government engineers, who have been at work some years in the straits.

"Visitors mounting the station on a still clear day, have a view of this island, the straits with its curves, islands and points, and the adjacent shores, which well repays them, especially on a calm day, for the lake and green woods lie in stillness before them, taking the mind for hundreds of years back, to the time when thousands of warriors occupied the prominent points brought within view.

"Off to the northwest, some four or five miles, lies the mixed Canadian and Indian settlement of Point St. Ignace and Moran Bay, with a few farms, which give a more agreeable view to the otherwise sameness of wood and water. There the Indians, called the Au-se-gum-ugs, lived until driven away by the Ojibwas and Ottawas, as they extended their conquests south and west. There also the Iroquois were permitted to locate and live before the French reached and settled on the St. Lawrence, there some of the Iroquois were massacred and driven off by the Ojibwas and Ottawas. North of this can be seen the outlines of the bluff called "Rabbit Sitting," northeasterly the St. Martin Islands, the entrance of the Chenoux, and the dividing ridge between this and the Saut St. Mary. On the northeast can be seen the Detour, and to the south, Bois Blanc Light-House, and the Cheboy-e-gun; and on the west the Straits of Lake Michigan, with Waugoohance Point and Light-House.