In an erratic climate, such as that of Great Britain, bee-keeping includes among its duties that of bee-feeding at certain periods of the year, if profit is to accrue. It must be remembered that shortage of food when the bees are active means an inroad on their stores and a suspension of brood-rearing operations.
This applies most particularly to early spring when successful brood-rearing is absolutely necessary to ensure a profitable issue to the bee-keeper. If, therefore, there is a shortage of food then, the hive will be thrown backward to such an extent that the bees will have no time to gather surplus stores for the bee-keeper's benefit. All their strength will go to supply the necessities of brood-rearing. The honey-flow over, with their store so small that it serves their needs but a short time—for much food is consumed in summer—the bees then begin the pernicious system of robbing other hives, and thereby causing further trouble.
Spring Feeding.—Spring feeding, therefore, may be looked upon as a necessity for the bee-keeper out for profit. It is then that the neglected hive so often succumbs after the community has existed safely through the winter.
I consider that outside feeding is by far the better method in the spring. For one reason it is always risky to disturb the bees by inside feeding early in the year, and there is always the certainty of admitting a draught of cold air to the hive. Another reason in favour of outside feeding is that it induces the bees to take exercise, which is decidedly good for them after the winter seclusion, and also keeps the young bees from wandering in search of food, and thereby running the risk of getting lost.
The food should be placed on a shelf at a good height from the ground, and in a warm situation, well sheltered from cold winds. Protection, too, is necessary for the food; a garden light reared against the house wall answers the purpose admirably. The sun's rays passing through the glass will warm the food and make it more acceptable to the bees. Old honey in the combs is of course the ideal food for bees, but where this is not available artificial food must be resorted to.
Syrup Food.—All artificial syrup food should be made from pure refined cane sugar, which supplies the bees with a substitute as near to the natural food as is possible. Syrup for spring feeding or stimulating should be made as follows:
| Cane sugar | 10 | lb. |
| Water (clean spring water preferably) | 7 | pints |
| Table Salt | 1 | oz. |
| Vinegar | 1 | tablespoonful |
This mixture must be boiled in a clean enamel saucepan and all scum that rises to the surface carefully removed. Some bee-keepers add a pinch of borax, or some naphtha beta, or other chemicals as preventives against disease, but unless disease be actually rife in the district these additions are totally unnecessary, especially in the spring of the year. Moreover they are liable to spoil the flavour of any surplus honey subsequently gathered by the bees.
It is only necessary to give each hive about one pint of syrup per week, when spring feeding is commenced, but after a few weeks the amount must be gradually increased. The worker bee generally leaves the cell about 21 days after the egg has been deposited by the queen, and as the young bee cannot leave the hive until she is a fortnight old, an increased amount of food is required after each batch of brood is hatched.
Artificial Pollen Food.—Many bee-keepers use artificial pollen in springtime for stimulating purposes. This consists of finely ground pea or oat meal, and is sprinkled among dry shavings or chaff in a box. A good method of attracting bees to such supplies is to place the pollen, etc., in an old skep hive which retains some propolis, or to place an old quilt in the box. In any case this food supply must be kept in a sheltered spot as directed on [page 83].