Cathedral Cities of Spain

by W. W. Collins

We furtively admired the finely-carved stalls, the grand retablo over the High Altar with its terribly life-like crucifix, all the time with a feeling on my part of that vigilant eye boring a hole in my back like a gimlet. We next examined the alabaster tomb the masterpiece of Gil de Siloe, executed to the order of Isabella the Catholic, which stands in front of the altar. Juan II. and his wife Isabella of Portugal lie side by side clothed in their robes of state. At his feet are two Lions, at hers a Lion and a Dog. I forgot the solitary monk and the gimlet stopped its work as I became lost in admiration while following the intricacies of Gil de Siloe's greatest production.

At the eight corners of this magnificent tomb, most undoubtedly the finest I have ever seen, and by some considered unsurpassed in Europe, sixteen lions support the royal arms, above them along the cornice beautiful little statuettes stand under canopies which are a marvel of delicate tracery. The embroidery on the robes of the royal pair is exquisite and the imitation of the lace work unsurpassed.

For a long time we stood discussing and admiring the marvellous cleverness of the designer of a monument which is worthy of the great and pious woman who erected it to the memory of her parents.

Hard by in the west wall of the church is the tomb of the Infante Alfonso, whose death at the early age of sixteen left the accession vacant for Isabella and so changed the history of Castile. It is likewise a wonderful piece of work by the same skilful hand. The young Prince kneels alone in an attitude of prayer which gains dignity from the half-shadow thrown by the recess in which the monument is placed. The arch above is decorated with a twining vine, while men-at-arms support the tomb.

We turned from the contemplation of these two memorials and the monotone of the old monk's prayer filled the church. I think we both shared a feeling of relief when we found ourselves once more outside under the grey sky, though I shall ever remember the impression of that aisleless church with its magnificent tombs, that white robed monk with his droning voice, the chill of the autumn air and those long lines of stately poplars under which I passed in my last pilgrimage in Spain.

INDEX

[A], [B], [C], [D], [E], [F], [G], [H], [I], [J], [L], [M], [N], [O], [P], [Q], [R], [S], [T], [U], [V], [Y], [Z]

Abderrhaman, mosque of, [80]
Adrian IV., Pope, [81]
Albornoz, Cardinal, tomb of, [111]
Alfonso VI., [234], [235]
Alfonso VIII., [245]
Alfonso de Cartagena, Bishop, [240]
Alfonso el Catolico, [197];
coffin of, [220]
Alfonso the Chaste, [218], [220]
Alfonso the Learned, sarcophagus of, [10]
Alfonso de los Rios, [238]
Alhambra, [31], [46], sqq.
Court of Lions, [50]
Almakkari, historian, [23]
Almanzor, [200]
Alva Garcia, [138]
Alvaro de Luna, [232]
Antequerra, [48]
Arabic documents, [230]
Aragon, union of, with Castile, [67]
Arfe, silver monstrance by, [142]
Arfe, Juan de, [228]
Arlanzón, river, [233]
Astorga, [193-198]
Cathedral, [193], sqq.
Historical sketch, [197]
Augustus, Emperor, [84]
Averroes, [30]
Avila, [137-144]
Cathedral, [81], [138]
Avila, Historical sketch, [137]
Avila, tomb of, [143]
Badajos, Juan de, [215]
Baeza, [195]
Barcelona, [83], [91-99]
Cathedral, [92], sqq.
Church of San Pablo del Campo, [94]
Church of Santa Marica del Mar, [95]
Church of Santa Marica del Pi, [95]
Historical sketch, [91], sqq.
Rambla, [97]
Barceloneta, suburb of Barcelona, [96]
Bartolomé, and the Capilla Real, Granada, [39]
Beatrice of Swabia, sarcophagus of, [10]
Becerra, Gaspar, [195]
Beggars, at Cordova, [29], [30];
at Seville, [30], [35];
at Madrid, [30]
Bernardo de Aragon, tomb of, [164]
Berruguete, carvings by, [113], [141], [228]
Boabdil, figure of, at Granada, [41]
Brutus, Junius, founds colony on the Turia, [66]
Bull-fights, at Seville, [20]
Burgos, [233-248]
Capilla del Condestable, [238]
Capilla del Corpus Christi, [242]
Capilla de la Presentacion, [239]
Capilla de San Enrique, [240]
Capilla del Santissimo Cristo, [239]
Cathedral, [233], sqq.
Chapel of Santa Anna, [240]
Church of San Domingo de Silos, [244]
Church of San Juan de Sahagun, [240]
Convent of las Huelgas, [245]
Collegio de San Nicolas, [244]
Historical sketch, [234], sqq.
Museum, [244]
Cadiz, [1-5]
Académia de Bellas Artes, [4]
Cathedral, [3], [4]
Historical sketch, [3]
Mercado, [4]
Cæsar, Julius, captures Seville, [7]
Calix at Valencia, [71]
Campaña, Pedro, pictures at Seville, [12]
Cano, Alonso, pictures by, at Cadiz, [4];
at Seville, [11], [12];
builds façade of Cathedral at Granada, [38];
pictures by, [38];
pictures by, at Malaga, [60];
figure by at Segovia, [151]
Cartuja de Miraflores, [246]
Casa Consistorial, Barcelona, [95]
Casa del Cordon, Burgos, [243]
Cataluña, union with Aragon, [92]
Cervantes, house of, [232]
Charles V., palace of, [54];
arms of, [236]
Chartres Cathedral, [211]
Chirriguera, High Altar by, [129], [141], [228]
Cid, the, [65], [201]
Cofre del Cid, [242]
Columbus, monument at Seville, [11];
house of, [232]
Comunéros, [243]
Cordova, [23-30]
Capilla de Nuestra Señorade Villavicosia, [25]
Cathedral, [24], sqq.
Convent de San Jeronimo, [30]
Historical sketch, [23], [24]
Mosques, [24], [25]
Cornielis, work of, [141]
Corre de Sol, Granada, [55]
Cristóbal, carving by, at Tortosa, [81]
Dalman de Mur, High Altar by, [164]
Damian Forment, retablo, [166], [167]
Darro, river at Granada, [31], [33], [34], [37]
De Gainza, Martin, [10]
Diego de Porcelos, [242]
Diego de Siloe, plans Cathedral at Granada, [38];
at Malaga, [59]
Duque de Lerma, [226]
Edward I., marriage of, [244], [245]
El Calvario, [150]
El Campanario, tower at Cordova, [27]
El Cristo de la Luz, Toledo, [115]
El Grao, port of Valencia, [67]
El Parral, Segovia, [154]
El Transito, Toledo, [114]
Englefield, Sir Francis, [232]
Escovedo, Juan, [150]
Essex, siege of Cadiz by Lord, [4]
Ferdinand I., [200], marriage of, [243]
Ferdinand and Isabella, monument at Granada, [40];
portraits, [41], [44], [225];
arms of, [227]
Ferdinand el Santos, [234], [235]
Francisco de Lara, ceiling by, [112]
Francisco de Palenzuela, tomb of, [126]
Fruela I., coffin of, [220]
Gallegos, panels by, [203]
Gayá, [84]
Genil, river at Granada, [34]
Geromino, tomb of, [126]
Geronimo, [200]
Gerona, [101-10]
Cathedral, [103], sqq.
Church of San Pedro de los Gallegans, [105]
Historical sketch, [101], sqq.
Gibraltar, [58]
Gil de Siloe, [247]
Giralda Tower, Seville, [13], [14]
Gomar, Francisco, work at Tarragona, [86]
Gonzalo de Cordoba, [45]
Grado, Canon Juan de, tomb of, [204]
Granada, [31-35]
Albaicin, [31]
Alhambra, [31], sqq.
Antequeruela, [31]
Capilla de la Antigue, [39]
Capilla de Pulgar, [44]
Capilla Real, [42]
Capilla de Trinidad, [38]
Cathedral, [38], [44]
Church of San Juan de los Reyes, [44]
Church of San Nicólas, [44]
Church of Santa Anna, [44]
Convent of Cartuja, [45]
Convent of San Geronimo, [45]
Greek remains, Tuy, [183]
Guadalete, river at Cadiz, [5];
battle on banks of, [58]
Guadalquiver, position of Cordova on, [23]
Guadelmedina, the, [61]
Guillermo Boffy, [104]
Gutierrez, Bishop, [219]
Hernandez, [229], [230]
Hontañon, rebuilt dome of Seville Cathedral, [12];
Salamanca Cathedral, [125];
Segovia, [150]
Hospital de Santa Cruz, Toledo, [116]
Infante Alfonso, tomb of, [248]
Inigo de Mendoz, tomb of, [112]
James I., of Aragon, armour of at Valencia, [70];
tomb of, [86]
Jews at Seville, [15]
John of Cologne, [234], [238]
John of Gaunt, [178]
José Granados, builds western facade of Cathedral, Granada, [38]
Juan II., [24]
Juan Bantista Celma, [178]
Juan, Prince, tomb of, [142]
Juan de Borgoña, frescoes by, [112], [141]
Juan de Castro, [178]
Juan de Juni, [228]
Juan de Mena, [30]
Juan de Padilla, figure of, [244]
Juan de Vallejo, [237]
Juanes, Last Supper by, [71]
La Magdena, Zamora, [201]
Lanfredo, Bishop, [80]
La Peña Gajera, [154]
La Peñarala, [158]
Las Navas de Tolosa, [245]
Leon, [205-216]
Cathedral, [209]
Chapel of La Nuestra Señora del Dado, [213]
Convent of San Isidoro el Real, [214]
Convent of San Marcos, [215]
Historical sketch, [205], sqq.
Leovigild, [205]
Loja, [48]
Loyola, relic of, [95]
Lucan, [30]
Madrazo, designs by, [210]
Maestro Matio, portrait of, [176]
Malaga, [57-63]
Alcazába, [61]
Cathedral, [59]
Historical sketch, [57], sqq.
Mercado, [61]
Malagueta, river, [61]
Manrique de Lara, Bishop, [210]
Maragatos, the, [195]
Marcellus peoples Cordova, [23]
Maria Padilla, mistress of Pedro the Cruel, coffin of, [10]
Maurice, Bishop, [234], [235]
Mena, Pedro de, pupil of Cano, [60]
Mendoza, Cardinal, [219]
Meshwâr, [53]
Miguelete Tower, [66]
Minho, river, [183]
Monte Mauro, [34]
Morales, [30]
Mulhacen, [48]
Murillo, pictures at Cadiz, [4];
San Antonio de Padua at Seville, [11];
in Seville Museum, [20]
Museum, Seville, [20]
Napoleonic Wars, [67]
Naranco, [223]
Church of Santa Maria, [223], [224]
Nicodemus, [239]
Nicolas Florentino, retablo by, [128]
Nicolas de Vergara, carving by, [113]
Notre Dame de Paris, [211]
Oca, Bishop, [235]
Oñar, river, [102]
Ordoño I., coffin of, [220]
Ordoño II., [213]
Orense, [187-191]
Cathedral, [187], sqq.
Convent of San Francisco, [190]
Historical sketch, [187]
Oviedo, [217-224]
Capilla del Rey Casto, [220]
Cathedral, [218]
Historical sketch, [218], sqq.
Panteon, Leon, [215]
Parapanda, Mount, [48]
Pedro the Cruel, coffin of, [10];
trees planted by, [14]
Pedro Mato, statue of, [195]
Pelayo, [222]
Petrucci Orto, chalice by, [142]
Philip II. destroys mosques at Cordova, [24]
Philip Vigarni, [237], [238]
Philip and Juana la Loca, tomb of, at Granada, [40];
coffins of, [42]
Pisuerga, river, [225]
Pliny quoted, [197]
Pradas, work of, at Granada, [43]
Quintata, Cardinal, tomb of, [190]
Ramiro II., [200]
Ramiro, coffin of, [220]
Ramon Berenguer I., Count, [91]
Ramon Berenguer II., and Emensendis, tombs of, [104]
Reus, [83]
Ribalta, painting by, at Valencia, [71]
Ribera, Adoration by, [71]
Roman remains, at Tarragona, [84];
at Segovia, [149]
Roman Sculpture at Tarragona, [89]
Salamanca, [121-135]
Capilla del Carmen, [126]
Capilla Mayor, [128]
Capilla de San Bartolomé, [128]
Capilla de Talavera, [128]
Cathedrals, [121], [124], sqq., [127]
Church of San Pedro, [143]
Collegio Mayor de Santiago Apostol, [132]
Convent of las Agustinas Recoletas, [130]
Grammar School, [131]
Historical sketch, [123], sqq.
University, [131]
San Pedro, river at Cadiz, [5]
Santa Eulalia, body of, [93], [220]
Santiago, [171-181]
Cathedral, [173], sqq.
Collegio de San Gerónimo, [180]
Historical sketch, [172]
Santos Cruz, pictures by, [141]
Saragossa, [101], [159-170]
Church of San Pablo, [167]
Cathedrals, [162], sqq.
El Pilar, [165]
Historical sketch, [159], sqq.
La Seo, [162], sqq.
Sebastian del Piombo, [239]
Segovia, [145-158]
Capilla del Cristo del Consuelo, [152]
Cathedral, [150], sqq.
Chapel of Santa Cantalina, [152]
Church of San Martin, [153]
Church of San Millan, [153]
Church of la Vera Cruz, [153]
Convent of Santa Cruz, [153]
Historical sketch, [149], sqq.
Semple, Colonel, [232]
Seneca, [30]
Seville, [7-21]
Capilla de San Pedro, [11]
Capilla de Santiago, [11]
Cathedral, [8], sqq.
Historical sketch, [7]
Jewish quarter, [15]
Sierra de Elvira, [48]
Sierra Nevada, [48], [55]
Souchet, sacks Valencia, [67]
Tarragona, [83-90]
Cathedral, [84], sqq.
Historical sketch, [83], sqq.
Toledo, [107-119]
Bridges, [116], [117]
Cathedral, [109]
Capilla de la Descension de Nuestra Señora, [112]
Capilla de Reyes Nuevo, [111]
Capilla de San Ildefonso, [111]
Capilla de Santiago, [112]
Church of San Juan de los Reyes, [114]
Church of Santa Maria la Blanca, [114]
Convent of San Domingo el Real, [115]
Historical sketch, [107], sqq.
Jews' quarter, [114]
Torquemada, Cardinal, [226]
Tortosa, [77-82]
Carving at, by Cristobal, [81]
Cathedral [80], sqq.
Historical sketch, [78], sqq.
Triana, [19]
Tribunal de Aguas, [69]
Tuy, [183-185]
Cathedral, [183], sqq.
Convent of Santa Domingo, [185]
Historical sketch, [183], sqq.
Urraca, [200];
coffin of, [220]
Valencia, [65-76]
Cathedral, [69]
Church of San Martin, [72]
Church of Santa Catalina, [71]
Convent del Carmen, [75]
Convent Espinose, [75]
Convent Juanes, [75]
Convent Ribalta, [75]
Historical sketch, [65], sqq.
Mercado, [73], [74]
Valladolid, [225-232]
Church of Santa Maria la Antigua, [226]
Colegiata de San Gregorio, [227]
Collegio de Santa Cruz, [228]
Historical sketch, [225]
Scotch and English Colleges, [232]
University, [230]
Vargas, Louis de, La Gamba at Seville, [11], [12]
Vega, the, [62]
Velasquez, tomb of, [142]
Vigarney, carvings by, [113]
Viladomát, pictures by, at Barcelona, [95]
"Wamba," great bell, Oviedo, [222]
Wellington, Duke of, [48]
Ximenes, [112], [227]
Yahya, Moorish King, [65]
Zamora , [199-204]
Capilla del Cardinal, [203]
Capilla de San Miguel, [204]
Cathedral, [201], sqq.
Church of la Magdalena, [201]
Church of San Pedro of Ildefonso, [201]
Historical sketch, [200]
Hospital, [201]
Zurbaran, pictures at Cadiz, [4];
at Seville, [11], [12]

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Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber.
matyrdoms of the Order=>martyrdoms of the Order
Witiza in the meantime died and was suceeded=>Witiza in the meantime died and was succeeded
The whole rises in isolated grandeur and and may perhaps gain=>The whole rises in isolated grandeur and may perhaps gain
and if it happen to be a=>and if it happens to be a
the arches of the the old bridge=>the arches of the old bridge
so named on acount of the scallop shells=>so named on account of the scallop shells
she is embracing me, we disentagle ourselves=>she is embracing me, we disentangle ourselves
but a short exsistence as their house of prayer=>but a short existence as their house of prayer
who fought three antagonists one ofter another and came off successful=>who fought three antagonists one after another and came off successful
I was immediatley nonplussed=>I was immediately nonplussed
Bernardo de Arragon, tomb of, 164=>Bernardo de Aragon, tomb of, 164