To our shame be it said that there was not, among our English immigrants, one naturalist who could rightly name the birds, beasts, fishes, and insects in our Western home. But I was fortunate in finding an American friend, Mr. O. B. Johnson, of Salem, whose complete and accurate knowledge of these subjects only rendered more easy his kindly endeavors to give me the benefit of all his stores.
I wish to acknowledge also the care with which, ever since our visit in 1877, the professors at the Corvallis Agricultural College have kept the records of climate and rainfall, the results of which are now published.
I trust that, if any sketches in these pages are recognized as portraits, not one grain of offense will be taken by those who have unwittingly served as models in the life-studio.
Or that, if any effect is produced, it may be as good and lasting as that which followed on a fancy picture in the former book, in which many stray touches were collected. Whether the cap fitted, or was pressed on his head by too officious neighbors, I know not; but this I know, that cleared fields, neat fences, new barn, clean house, and fitting furniture, rendered it impossible for me to recognize a tumbledown place which then served to point a warning. These improvements, I am told, the owner lays at my unconscious door.
Wallis Nash.
Corvallis, Oregon, April 14, 1881.
CONTENTS.
| PAGE | |
| CHAPTER I. | |
| Personal reasons for coming to Oregon—Plans of colonizing—Who came—Who have returned—Who remain—Bowie-knives and revolvers—A sheriff in danger—No tragedy—Our landing at Corvallis—Frail houses—Pleasant welcome—The barber's shop—Its customers—Given names—New acquaintances—Bright dresses—Religious denominations. | [17] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Where we live—Snow-peaks and distant prospects—Forest-fires—The Coast Mountains and Mary's Peak—Sunset in Oregon—Farmhouses: the log-cabin, the box-house, the frame-house—Dinner at the farm—Slay and eat—A rash chicken—Bread-making by amateurs—Thrift and unthrift—Butter and cheese—Products of the "range," farm, and garden—Wheat-growing. | [26] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| The land-office; its object and functionaries—How to find your land—Section 33—The great conflagration—The survivors of the fire—The burnt timber and the brush—The clearing-party—Chopping by beginners—Cooking, amateur and professional—The wild-cat—Deer and hunting—Piling brush—Dear and cheap clearing—The skillful axeman—Clearing by Chinamen—Dragging out stumps—What profits the farmer may expect on a valley farm—On a foot-hills farm. | [36] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| A spring ride in Oregon—The start—The equipment—Horses and saddlery—Packs—The roadside—Bird fellow-travelers—Snakes—The nearest farm—Bees—The great pasture—The poisonous larkspur— Market-gardening—The Cardwell Hill—The hill-top—The water-shed —Mary River—Crain's—The Yaquina Valley—Brush, grass, and fern —The young Englishmen's new home—A rustic bridge—"Chuck-holes"— The road supervisor—Trapp's—The mill-dam—Salmon-pass law—Minnows and crawfish—The Pacific at rest—Yaquina—Newport. | [48] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Hay-harvest—Timothy-grass—Permanent pasture—Hay-making by express—The mower and reaper—Hay-stacks as novelties— Wheat-harvest—Thrashing—The "thrashing crowd"—"Headers" and "self-binders"—Twine-binders and home-grown flax—Green food for cows—Indian corn, vetches—Wild-oats in wheat—Tar-weed the new enemy—Cost of harvesting—By hired machines—By purchased machines—Cost of wheat-growing in the Willamette Valley. | [62] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| The farmer's sports and pastimes—Deer-hunting tales—A roadside yarn—Still-hunting—Hunting with hounds—An early morning's sport—Elk—The pursuit—The kill—Camp on Beaver Creek— Flounder-spearing by torchlight—Flounder-fishing by day—In the bay—Rock oysters—The evening view—The general store—Skins— Sea-otters—Their habits—The sea-otter hunters—Common otter—The mink and his prey. | [72] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Birds in Oregon—Lark—Quail—Grouse—Ruffed grouse—Wild-geese— Manœuvres in the air—Wild-ducks—Mallard—Teal—Pintail— Wheat-duck—Black-duck—Wood-duck—Snipe—Flight-shooting— Stewart's Slough—Bitterns—Eagles—Hawks—Horned owls—Woodpeckers —Blue-jays—Canaries—The canary that had seen the world—Blue-birds —Bullfinches—Snow-bunting—Humming-birds at home. | [91] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Up to the Cascades—Farming by happy-go-lucky—The foot-hills—Sweet Home Valley—Its name, and how deserved and proved—The road by the Santiam—Eastward and upward—Timber—Lower Soda Springs—Different vegetation—Upper Soda Springs—Mr. Keith—Our reception—His home and surroundings—Emigrants on the road—The emigrant's dog—Off to the Spokane—Whence they came—Where they were bound—Still eastward— Fish Lake—Clear Lake—Fly-fishing in still water—The down slope east—Lava-beds—Bunch-grass—The valleys in Eastern Oregon—Their products—Wheat-growing there—Cattle-ranchers—Their home—Their life—In the saddle and away—Branding-time—Hay for the winter—The Malheur reservation—The Indians' outbreak—The building of the road—When, how, and by whom built—The opening of the pass—The history of the road—Squatters—The special agent from Washington—A sham survey. | [100] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Indian fair at Brownsville—Ponies—The lasso—Breaking-in—The purchase—"Bucking" extraordinary—Sheep-farming in Eastern Oregon— Merinos—The sheep-herder—Muttons for company—A good offer refused—Exports of wool from Oregon-Price and value of Oregon wool—Grading wool—Price of sheep—Their food—Coyotes—The wolf-hunt—Shearing—Increase of flocks—"Corraling" the sheep— Sheep as brush-clearers. | [118] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| The trail to the Siletz Reserve—Rock Creek—Isolation—Getting a road—The surveying-party—Entrance at last—Road-making—Hut-building in the wilds—What will he do with it?—Choice of homestead—Fencing wild land—Its method and cost—Splitting cedar boards and shingles— House-building—The China boy and the mules—Picnicking in earnest—Log-burning—Berrying-parties—Salting cattle—An active cow—A year's work—Mesquit-grass on the hills. | [127] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| The Indians at home—The reservation—The Upper Farm—Log-cabins— Women must work while men will play—The agency—The boarding-house —Sunday on the reservation—Indian Sun day-school—Galeese Creek Jem—The store-Indian farmers—As to the settlement of the Indians —Suggestions—A crime—Its origin—Its history—The criminals— What became of them—Indian teamsters—Numbers on the reservation —The powers and duties of the agent—Special application. | [136] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| The Legislative Assembly—The Governor—His duties—Payment of the members—Aspect of the city; the Legislature in session—The lobbyist—How bills pass—How bills do not pass—Questions of the day—Common carriers—Woman's suffrage—Some of the acts of 1878—Judicial system of the State—Taxes—Assessments—County officers—The justice of the peace—Quick work. | [145] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Land laws—Homesteads and preëmption—How to choose and obtain Government land—University land—School land—Swamp land—Railroad and wagon-road grants—Lieu lands—Acreages owned by the various companies. | [157] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| The "Web-foot State"—Average rainfall in various parts—The rainy days in 1879 and 1880—Temperature—Seasons—Accounts and figures from three points—Afternoon sea-breezes—A "cold snap"—Winter— Floods—Damage to the river-side country—Rare thunder—Rarer wind-storms—The storm of January, 1880. | [164] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| The State Fair of 1880—Salem—The ladies' pavilion—Knock-em-downsà l'Américaine—Self-binders—Thrashing-machines—Rates of speed—Cost—Workmanship—Prize sheep—Fleeces—Pureversusgraded sheep—California short-horns—Horses—American breed or Percheron—Comparative measurements—The races—Runners—Trotters— Cricket in public—Unruly spectators. | [174] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| History of Oregon—First discoverers—Changes of government— Recognition as a Territory—Entrance as a State—Individual histories—"Jottings"—"Sitting around"—A pioneer in Benton County—How to serve Indian thieves—The white squaw and the chief—Immigration in company—Rafting on the Columbia—The first winter—Early settlement—Indian friends—Indian houses and customs—The Presbyterian colony—The start—Across the plains— Arrival in Oregon—The "whaler" settler—A rough journey—"Ho for the Umpqua!"—A backwoodsman—Compliments—School-teacher provided for—Uncle Lazarus—Rogue River Cañon—Valley of Death—Pleasant homes—Changed circumstances. | [183] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| State and county elections—The Chinese question—Chinese house-servants—Washermen—Laborers—A large camp—Supper—Chinese trading—The scissors—Cost of Chinese labor—Its results—Chinese treaties—Household servants—Chee and his mistress—"Heap debble-y in there"—The photo album—Temptation—A sin and its reward—Good advice on whipping—Chung and the crockery—Chinese New Year—Gifts— "Hoodlums"—Town police—Opium. | [201] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| Life in the town—Sociables—Religious sects—Sabbath-schools— Christmas festivities—Education, how far compulsory—Colleges— Student-life and education—Common schools—Teachers' institutes— Newspapers—Patent outsides-"The Oregonian"—Other journals—Charities —Paupers—Secret societies. | [209] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| Industries other than farming—Iron-ores—Coal—Coos Bay mines— Seattle mines—Other deposits—Lead and copper—Limestone—Marbles— Gold, where found and worked—Silver, where found and worked—Gold in sea-sand—Timber—Its area and distribution—Spars—Lumber—Size of trees—Hard woods—Cost of production and sale of lumber—Tanneries —Woolen-mills—Flax-works—Invitation to Irish—Salmon—Statistics of the trade—Methods—Varieties of salmon—When and where caught— Salmon-poisoning of dogs—Indians fishing—Traps—Salmon-smoking. | [219] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| Eastern Oregon—Going "east of the mountains"—Its attractions— Encroaching sheep—First experiments in agriculture and planting— General description of Eastern Oregon—Boundaries—Alkaline plains— Their productions—The valleys—Powder River Valley—Description— The Snake River and its tributaries—The Malheur Valley—Harney Lake Valley—Its size—Productions—Wild grasses—Hay-making—The winters in Eastern Oregon—Wagon-roads—Prineville—Silver Creek—Grindstone Creek Valley—Crooked River—Settlers' descriptions and experiences— Ascent of the Cascades going west—Eastern Oregon towns—Baker City—Prineville—Warnings to settlers—Growing wheat for the railroads to carry. | [231] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| Southern Oregon—Its boundaries—The western counties—Population— Ports—Rogue River—Coos Bay—Coal—Lumber—Practicable railroad routes—The harbor—Shifting and blowing sands—A quoted description —Cost of transportation—Harbor improvements—Their progress and results—The Umpqua—Douglas County—Jackson County—The lake-country —Linkville—Water-powers—Indian reservations—The great mountains— Southeastern Oregon—General description—Industries. | [243] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| The towns—Approach to Oregon—The steamers—The Columbia entrance— Astoria—Its situation, industries, development—Salmon—Shipping— Loading and discharging cargo—Up the Columbia and Willamette to Portland—Portland, West and East—Population—Public buildings— United States District Court—The judge—Public Library—The Bishop schools—Hospital—Churches—Stores—Chinese quarter—Banks—Industries —The city's prosperity—Its causes—Its probable future—The Oregon Railway and Navigation Company—Shipping abuses and exactions— Railroad termini—Up the Columbia—The Dalles—Up the Willamette— Oregon City, its history—The falls—Salem—Its position and development—Capitol buildings—Flour-mills—Oil-mills—Buena Vista potteries—Albany—Its water-power—Flour-mills—Values of land— Corvallis—The line of the Oregon Pacific Railroad—Eugene, its university and professors—Roseburg—The West-side Railroad to Portland—Development of the country—Prosperity—Counties of Oregon —Their population—Taxable property—Average possessions—In the Willamette Valley—In Eastern Oregon—In Eastern Oregon tributary to Columbia and Snake Rivers. | [252] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| The transportation question—Its importance—Present legal position —Oregon Railway and Navigation Committee's general report—That company—Its ocean-going steamers—Their traffic and earnings—Its river-boats—Their traffic and earnings—Its railroads in existence —Their traffic and earnings—Its new railroads in construction and in prospect—Their probable influence—The Northern Pacific— Terminus on Puget Sound—Its prospects—The East and West Side Railroads—"Bearing" traffic and earnings—How to get "control"— Lands owned by the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company—Monopoly —How threatened—The narrow-gauge railroads—Their terminus and working—Efforts to consolidate monopoly—The "blind pool"—Resistance —The Oregon Pacific—Its causes, possessions, and prospects—Land grant and its enemies—The traffic of the valley—Yaquina Bay—Its improvement—The farmers take it in hand—Contrast and comparisons —The two presidents—Probable effects of competition—Tactics in opposition—The Yaquina improvements—Description of works—The prospects for competition and the farmers' gains. | [271] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| Emigration to Oregon—Who should not come—Free advice and no fees—English emigrants—Farmers—Haste to be rich—Quoted experiences—Cost and ways of coming—Sea-routes—Railroads— Baggage—What not to bring—What not to forget—Heavy property— The Custom-house—San Francisco hotels—Conclusion. | [293] |
| Appendix. | [305] |