IN AND AROUND JERUSALEM.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Peculiar Architecture—Strange Partnership—The Centre of the Earth—The Grave of Adam—Unaccountable Superstitions—An Underground World—Pool of Siloam—Kedron Valley—The Final Judgment—Tomb of the Kings—Valley of Hinnom—Lower Pool of Gihon—Moloch—Gehenna—Upper Pool of Gihon—Calvary—The Savior’s Tomb.
IN giving a bird’s eye view of Jerusalem, I stated that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre was one of the most prominent objects in the city. This famous building is located about midway the city, from east to west, but not more than one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards from the northern wall. It is, therefore, near the Damascus gate. Although thus centrally situated, although it covers an area of 200 by 230 feet, and although it lifts its double dome high in the air, this church is frequently passed by without attracting the slightest notice.
The reader naturally asks, “How is it possible that a building at once so historic and prominent as this attracts little or no attention?” The question is easily answered. Except a few feet on the south side, the structure is entirely surrounded by other buildings that join close on to it. These houses, which serve both for business purposes and residences, are built one upon another, until they reach high in air. The church is thus almost entirely shut out from the view of the street walker. To be seen externally, this edifice must be viewed from the city walls, from the Tower of David, from the Mosque of Omar, from the hill on the west, or from the Mount of Olives, on the east. When viewed from any one of these elevations, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is indeed prominent. From an architectural standpoint, the building is “without form and void.” But there it is, its two blue domes, like ever-open eyes, of unequal size, continually staring you in the face.
The building is owned jointly by the Latins, the Greeks, the Armenians, and the Copts, each sect having its separate chapels and apartments, neither one being allowed to trespass upon the rights of any of the others. The building proper is owned by so-called Christian sects, as stated above, but the door is the property of the Mohammedans! And jealously do they guard their property. The ponderous door works on rough hinges, and is fastened with bolts of iron. But to open it, the worshippers and even the priests who minister at the altars, are compelled to use a golden key. When the gold glitters, the door opens. To avoid this unparalleled imposition, many priests have actually taken up their abode in the sanctuary, their meals being passed to them through small apertures in the wall. The people are not so fortunate as the priests. They can not live in seclusion. They must work for bread and blanket, for Church and children. It is all they can do to keep soul and body together, yet will they divide their scanty living with the Mohammedans who own the door of the Sepulchre.
Does the reader ask, “Why do they not worship elsewhere, and save their money?” The answer is twofold. The priests are in the church; and with a catholic there is no prayer without penance, no pardon without a priest. Besides, they are taught to believe that this church is a peculiarly sacred place; that within this building is the geographical centre of the earth. A stone pillar marks the central spot. Here God got the dust to make Adam. Here, also, is Adam’s grave. Here was caught the ram that Abraham sacrificed on the altar of burnt offering instead of Isaac. Within this building is a stone prison where Christ was confined, Calvary, where he was crucified, the Sepulchre, where he was buried. They point out the graves of Nicodemus, and Joseph of Arimathea. These places are all crowded together under one roof; and yet they are pointed out by the Latin priests with an air of certainty that seems to say: “I have told you the truth. To doubt is to be damned.”
The building is not on Calvary, but over it. As if one would turn a tea-cup bottom upwards, and then turn a large glass globe over that. The floor of the building accommodates itself to the rough surface of the mount. So the mount is entirely covered up, and one no more realizes that he is about Calvary than if he were in Tremont Temple, in Boston. Entering the door from the south, one sees the Stone of Anointing directly in front of him, and about fifteen feet away. This marble slab is raised about twelve inches from the floor, and rests on a wooden block. It is also covered by wooden planks, so only the edge of the stone is visible. The stone had to be covered to keep the superstitious Catholics from kissing it away.