I have often heard that Smyrna was noted for her pretty women, but I protest. I have seen nothing in this city that even approximates female beauty; and, if I see a pretty woman at all, her face is so completely covered and wrapped up in muslins and shawls that I can hardly tell whether she is a Greek or an Ethiopian.
One of the seven Asiatic churches was located in this place. An old, old rock church still stands, and is pointed out as the one in which the Apostles used to preach. Near by the church is the tomb of Polycarp, who was a pupil of the Apostle John, and who was martyred A. D. 160, because he preached “the Gospel of Christ.” I have often read the touching account of Polycarp’s martyrdom. When asked to recant, he replied: “For eighty and six years have I served my God, and He has never forsaken me; and I can not now forsake Him.” The green boughs of a lone olive tree wave above his tomb, and I say to my friend: “Verily that tree is emblematic; its leaves are green, so is the memory of Polycarp still fresh in the mind of the Christian world. Above his tomb waves the olive branch of peace; and his sainted spirit, I believe, has gone on and up, and has long been in the full enjoyment of ‘that peace which the world knows not of.’”
From Smyrna I go out into the interior of the country, which generally is neglected and barren. I believe, however, that if the Turkish government was struck by lightning, and some other power could come in, that would encourage and protect honest labor, these fertile valleys would again yield abundant harvests, and that peace and plenty would reign where discord and pinching poverty now hold sway. In my opinion, the Turkish government is a reproach to the civilization of the nineteenth century; and I think the Lord lets it stand simply to show the powers of earth how deep down into degradation and despair, into vice and vagrancy, a nation can sink, when it wanders away from and forgets God. “Sin is a reproach to any people.”
On the way to Ephesus we meet several caravans, or trains of camels. These “ships of the desert” are all heavily laden, some with fruit, dried figs, dates, pomegranates, others with hand-made silks, Turkish rugs, Russian carpets, and other fancy goods. These caravans go back and forth between Smyrna and the far interior of the country. Camels are very obedient, and it is really amusing to see the humble creatures kneel down to receive their burdens.
Ephesus is chiefly interesting because of its historical associations. Next to Athens, it was once the most magnificent city in the world. Ephesus is as old as the hills. It is the birthplace of mythology. Apollo and Diana were born here. Bacchus and Hercules once struggled with the Amazon in the streets of Ephesus. These hills were once covered with twenty-five marble temples dedicated to heathen gods, that of Diana being one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Ephesus is one of the nine cities which claim to have given birth to Homer.
TURKISH LADY.
Some of the greatest names in history are connected with Ephesus. Alexander the Great visited here; so did Hannibal and Antiochus Scipio, Scylla, Brutus, Cassius, Pompey, Cicero, and Augustus. Antony was once judge of the court of Ephesus. It was from here that Antony and Cleopatra sailed for Samos in gilded galleys with perfumed silken sails and silver oars, drawn by beautiful girls whose gleaming paddles kept time to soft strains of music.
Some time ago, a very strange and serious difficulty occurred in this city of Ephesus. The trouble arose in this fashion: A stranger came into the city. The new-comer was possessed of a strong character and a superior education. He was by birth a Jew, by nature a gentleman, by education a scholar, by faith a Christian, and by profession a Baptist preacher. According to his custom, this strange Baptist preacher entered into the synagogue and reasoned with the Jews. From what I can find out, this man made a favorable impression in Ephesus, for the Jews “desired him to tarry longer with them,” but “he consented not.” He promised, however, to “return to them, if it be God’s will.” The Lord kindly permitted this man to return to Ephesus; and when he got there he found “certain disciples.” He asked them if they had received the Holy Ghost. They replied: “We have not so much as heard whether there be any Holy Spirit.” Strange to say, I have heard professing Christians in America say the self-same thing. These Ephesians, be it said to their credit, acted wisely and were re-baptised. The preacher then went into the church and spoke boldly for the space of three months. Now there arose a disturbance in the church, or synagogue, as it was called, so that it became necessary for the preacher to change the place of meeting to the school-house, or college chapel. Here, in this school-room, he held one of the most wonderful protracted meetings I have ever heard of; it lasted two years and three months, “so mightily grew the word of God and prevailed.” The town was stirred to its very depths. Among the converts were many infidels, diviners, soothsayers, fortune-tellers, etc. These people who “used curious arts brought their books together and burned them before all their fellow-townsmen; and they counted the price of them, and found it fifty thousand pieces of silver,” equal in American money to $15,000. This was the grandest day in the long history of Ephesus.