I send it to the press as it was written, except the division into chapters, which has been made at the suggestion of the publishers, who perhaps, think the yarn will reel better if the thread be broken. It undoubtedly contains passages which may seem light and irrelevant; but a diary has privileges, in this respect, which are not extended to compositions of a graver character. He who gathers what the chance wind may shake from the trees of his garden, will find some leaves as well as fruit in his basket; and he may find there the nest of some insect that has a sting in it, but this he has no right to send to market. He may send the leaves—perhaps their sear hues may set off the bloom of his fruit, as a wrinkle the rouge through which age sometimes seeks to blush back again into youth.
The members of Congress are responsible for any typographical errors which the volume may contain, for they so lumbered the mails, between Washington—where the proofs were sent—and New York, with their speeches, that my publishers had about as little chance of getting a corrected copy through this travelling Babel, as they would have had in finding a righteous man in Sodom after Lot had left. I know it seems cruel to roll the responsibility of blunders on a body of men who have errors enough of their own to answer for. But the evil one himself is held accountable for the sins of half the world.
Having thus conveniently disposed of all responsibility, I leave my Deck and Port to the wave and strand, where they belong. Wreckers will receive no salvage from me—they must make the most of the floating planks. I only ask them not to scuttle the craft before she strikes.
W. C.
NOTE.
The incidents which connected the officers of the Pacific Squadron and of the army, and many other prominent persons, with public events in California, are not reached by the Diary of this volume; they fall within the three years which are reserved for another work, entitled “Three Years in California.”
CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I.—Preparations for the voyage. | |
| Orders to the Congress.—Passengers’ poop-cabin.—Passing U. S. ship Pennsylvania.—Divine service.—Waiting the wind.—Rip-raps.—Internal arrangements.—Library of the crew.—Ship cheered.—Departure of the pilot | Page [13] |
| CHAPTER II.—Passage from Norfolk to Rio de Janeiro. | |
| A culprit.—Corporal punishments.—Divine service.—A bird.—A gale.—Grandeur of the Gulf stream.—Man missing.—Tracts on board.—Waterspout.—Life at sea.—An eclipse.—The sick-bay.—Moral mechanism of a man-of-war.—Speaking a brig.—Departure of Mr. Beale.—Death of Spillier.—Astor-House sailor.—Universalist chaplain.—A petrel.—Speaking a ship.—Departure of Mr. Norris.—Crossing the equator.—Southern constellations.—A man lost.—Land ho! | [22] |
| CHAPTER III.—Rio de Janeiro. | |
| Bay of Rio.—Scenery.—Aspect of the city.—Royal palace and chapel.—Lancers and baby.—Miseracordia.—Aqueduct.—Morning ride.—Botanic garden.—Tea-plant.—The Sabbath in Rio.—Museum.—Nunnery.—Jealousy of husbands.—A pompous funeral.—The Plymouth.—Hon. Henry A. Wise.—Slave-trade.—Marriages and domestic arrangements.—Political condition of the Brazilians.—Treatment of the slaves.—Religion.—Washerwomen.—San Antonio.—Climate.—The unknown couple.—Diamonds.—Farewell to Rio | [86] |
| CHAPTER IV.—Passage from Rio to Cape Horn. | |
| Getting under way.—The letter-bag.—Runaway sailor.—Isle of St. Catharine.—Pamperoes.—The shotted gun.—Loss of our coon.—The sailor and shark.—General quarters at night.—Fireworks in the sea.—The phantom ship.—Patagonians.—The Falkland Islands.—The captured albatros.—Terrific gale.—Condition of our frigate.—The sailor’s burial.—The cape of storms | [125] |
| CHAPTER V.—Passage from Cape Horn to Valparaiso. | |
| Gale.—Habits of the albatros and penguin.—The sea off Cape Horn.—Sleet and hail.—Farewell to the Cape.—Directions for doubling the Cape.—Gale in the Pacific.—Appearance of the stars.—A rainbow.—Divine service.—The razor at sea.—The little bark.—Plum-pudding and tripe.—The Cordilleras.—Arrival at Valparaiso Page | [156] |
| CHAPTER VI.—Sketches of Valparaiso. | |
| Aspect of the city.—Groups on the quay.—Chilian horsemanship.—The women.—Huts of the natives.—American and English society.—Opera-house.—The tertulia.—Mode of travelling.—Police of the city.—Visits from the shore.—Feudal system.—The clergy.—The Bible in Chili.—The confessional.—Burial-ground.—The Indian mother.—Political condition of Chili.—Farewell to Valparaiso | [191] |
| CHAPTER VII.—Passage from Valparaiso to Callao. | |
| Flare up of the Pacific.—Songs of seamen.—Sailors on shore.—Loss of the Samson of our ship.—The setting sun at sea.—Our Astor-House sailor.—The mad poet of the crew.—Land ho!—Aspect of Callao.—Appearance of the natives.—The burial isle | [219] |
| CHAPTER VIII.—Sketches of Lima. | |
| Incidents of the road.—The grand plaza.—Shops and houses.—The saya y manto.—American lady.—Mixture of races.—Demeanor of girls and boys.—Procession on Palm Sunday.—Convent of the Franciscans.—Doctors of Lima.—Good Friday.—The Last Supper.—Pilate’s court.—Garden of Gethsemane.—Close of Lent.—Jubilations.—Climate.—An officer in prison.—Lawyers.—The Indian’s eyrie.—Lottery.—Bull-fight | [234] |
| CHAPTER IX.—Sketches of Lima. | |
| Education of females.—Marriages.—Lapses from virtue.—The sunset bell.—Silk factory in a convent.—Habits of the Indians.—The half wedlock.—Blind pedler.—Protestant youth in Lima.—Religion of the Limanians.—Intrigues at court.—Modes of living.—The Zampas.—Churches.—Indian doctors.—Fruits of the country.—Old Spanish families.—Masses for the repose Of the soul | [265] |
| CHAPTER X.—Passage from Callao to Honolulu. | |
| Departure from Callao.—The rum smuggler.—Sunset.—Sea-birds.—A sailor’s defence.—General quarters.—Spirit ration.—The sailor and religion.—The flag.—Sagacity of the rat.—The cloud.—Calms and showers.—Religious tracts.—Constellations.—Trade winds.—Conduct of the crew.—Moon in the zenith.—Lay sermon.—Funeral.—Land ho! | [299] |
| CHAPTER XI.—Sketches of Honolulu. | |
| Bay of Honolulu.—Kanacka funeral.—The missionaries.—Huts and habits of the natives.—Taro-plant.—Roast dog.—School of the young chiefs.—Ride in the country.—The Mausoleum.—Cocoanut-tree.—Canoes.—Heathen temple.—King’s chapel.—Ride to Ewa.—Father Bishop.—His sable flock | [328] |
| CHAPTER XII.—Sketches of Honolulu. | |
| The king and court.—American commissioner.—Royal residence.—The salt lake.—Surf sports of the natives.—Gala day.—The women on horseback.—Sailor’s equestrianism.—The old man and the children at play.—Address of Com. Stockton.—Capt. La Place.—His Jesuits and brandy.—Lord George Paulet | [348] |
| CHAPTER XIII.—Passage from Honolulu to Monterey. | |
| The moral pharos.—The Mormon ship.—Bible class.—The sea-hen.—Our insane sailor.—Fourth of July.—Profaneness at sea.—Evening prayer-meeting.—Funeral.—Target firing.—Religious condition of the crew.—Anchor under Monterey | [367] |
| CHAPTER XIV.—Glances into California. | |
| Sailors on shore as soldiers.—The bear flag.—Capt. Fremont and armed band.—Departure of Admiral Seymour.—San Francisco.—Aspect of the town.—Habits of the people.—Spirit of speculation.—Gambling.—Effects of the gold mines.—Past and present condition of the country | [386] |
DECK AND PORT.