Batik and other pattern dyeing

by Walter Davis Baker; Ida Strawn Baker

It is to minimize the danger of uneven dyeing due to this local exhaustion that the dye-bath must be made of sufficient volume to cover the goods well. The goods must be moved about in the bath with the greatest freedom.

It is for the same reason, especially when the affinity between fiber and color is very great, that the dye is added a small portion at a time. The goods after being treated with part of the dye are lifted out of the bath, a new portion of dye quickly added and stirred, and the dyeing operation renewed. This is repeated until the desired shade is obtained.

The beginner is apt to think that to get a full color requires a concentrated dye-bath. Experience will teach him that, when the dyes are properly chosen for his fabric, a full color is obtained better by a longer treatment in a dilute bath, with additions of dye as mentioned above. In this way nearly if not all of the color put into the bath is absorbed by the cloth. This serves for economy of color, makes observation and control of the process easier, simplifies the problem of rinsing, and improves the quality of the dyeing. It is the only way dyeing to shade can be accomplished.

A slow dyeing is generally more level and successful in every way. In cases where the fiber absorbs the color greedily the dyer sometimes puts other ingredients called “assistants” into the bath to retard this absorption.

Frequently the craftsman does shaded dyeing, such as a scarf with deep blue ends grading to a light blue center. The following directions will accomplish this: Hold the scarf in the middle with one hand, dip the ends into the dye-bath and work them thoroughly with the other hand. Then lower the scarf into the bath very gradually without interrupting the working. If a half hour is taken to lower the scarf the ends will be in the bath perhaps thirty-five minutes, the center five minutes, and besides, before the center is dyed most of the color will have been exhausted from the bath.

4. The Handling of the Fabric After the Dyeing. The usual procedure after dyeing is a thorough rinsing to remove all surplus dye and chemicals. The importance of this will be appreciated from the following considerations:

If not removed many chemicals which have been used as assistants, becoming more concentrated as the goods dry, act injuriously on the dye or the fiber. Likewise any unused color will continue to dye the goods and of course unevenly. It is clearly essential that the rinsing be done immediately upon removal of the goods from the bath. The directions sometimes call for washing in soap and water after dyeing.

The excess of rinse water should be removed and the goods dried as rapidly as possible. Usually there is no objection to wringing. A fabric should never be allowed to hang and drain dry, as the dyeing is liable to become uneven in streaks, especially when the dye used is one given to run or “bleed,” or in any case where the rinsing has not been absolutely thorough. The craftsman in dyeing a small piece frequently puts it between towels or newspapers to absorb the excess water and then shakes it until dry. This is to be commended. The technical dyer has suitable machinery to accomplish this work.

To dry a batik piece, where the wax forbids wringing or rough handling in any way, spread the piece carefully on towels or newspapers, cover with more towels or papers to remove the excess water, then shake very gently until dry, or hang on a waxed line.

At no time during the process of dyeing should the goods be allowed to remain in contact with other absorbent surfaces, such as boards, paper, cloth, clothes-line, grass, etc. These are apt to absorb color away from the goods and leave faded streaks or spots. A clothes-line used for this purpose should be waxed to make it non-absorbent.