The wax resists the action of the dye-bath except where it cracks. Here the dye creeps in, producing the characteristic “crackle” of batik work. The Oriental craftsman never forces crackle. With him it is always an incident, the subtle accident of his handicraft.
JAVANESE WOMAN ENGAGED IN BATIK DECORATION
The nature of the process forces simple execution in waxing the shapes and outlines, and also limits the [!-- original location of illustration --] number of times the piece may be dyed. Applying the wax becomes increasingly difficult after each dipping. Spotting of color over the entire piece makes thinking in color as important as the painting in of the wax.
The Oriental process of dyeing is the reverse of the American, in that it applies the darkest colors first. This necessitates previous waxing over parts to be kept light and also the removal of the wax and an entire new waxing after each dyeing. The American method is to dye the lightest colors first and build up the deeper colors. Between dyeings the old waxing is repaired and additional areas waxed.
The “sarong,” worn by Javanese natives, is a skirt-like piece of goods about the size and proportion of a window curtain. This garment falls from the waist, or above it, to the feet. The fabric is cheap cotton manufactured in Holland or England. The color and decoration of the sarong is influenced by caste and religion. The feudal framework of Javanese society has given much significance to rank.
The women add to the sarong a “kemban.” This garment is not unlike a blouse without shoulder supports or sleeves. The kemban is wound tightly about the body under the arms. The drapery covers the upper part of the sarong.
The “slendang” completes the wearing apparel of the women. It is a scarf worn for adornment or useful for carrying the youngest child, or other burdens.
The Javanese man wears the sarong in the same manner as the women, which leads the foreigner to awkward misunderstandings. His long hair is done on the top of his head and bound around with a [!-- original location of illustration --] “sarong kapala.” This head dress is tied at the nape of the neck. The sarong kapala is square, and when fitted is starched and shaped to the head.