Every season adds to the knowledge of Ancient Egypt, and gives us something which for centuries lay hid beneath the desert sands. It was my good fortune to spend some winters at Thebes while some of the most interesting of recent discoveries were made, and through the courtesy of Mr. Weigall, the Chief Inspector of Upper Egypt, I was enabled to dwell and do my work in these congenial surroundings. I have also to thank him for the unique opportunities which our desert journey, from the Nile to the Red Sea, offered; of all my experiences in Egypt, none has given me more pleasure in recalling.
Haslemere, 1912.
CONTENTS
| PAGE | ||
|---|---|---|
| CHAPTER I | ||
| CAIRO REVISITED | [1] | |
| CHAPTER II | ||
| RENEWAL OF MY ACQUAINTANCE WITH MOHAMMEDBROWN AND SOME REFLECTIONSON MATRIMONY | [11] | |
| CHAPTER III | ||
| THE MOSQUE OF MURISTÂN KALAÛN, MY EXPERIENCEWITH THE FAKÍR, AND A DIGRESSIONON THE SUBJECT OF DERVISHES | [22] | |
| CHAPTER IV | ||
| THE FESTIVAL OF THE ‘HASANEYN’ AND THESTORY OF THE PRINCESS ZOHRA | [31] | |
| CHAPTER V | ||
| OF THE OLD AND THE NEW CAIRO, AND OF AVISIT TO THE SHEYKH AMMIN SAHEIME | [43] | |
| CHAPTER VI | ||
| MY SECOND VISIT TO THE SHEYKH AND MY EXPERIENCESWITH AN UNFAITHFUL SERVANT | [57] | |
| CHAPTER VII | ||
| IN WHICH I GET ANOTHER SERVANT AND HUNTFOR A CROCODILE; ALSO A CONTINUATIONOF THE STORY OF PRINCESS ZOHRA | [67] | |
| CHAPTER VIII | ||
| OF A CAIRO CAFÉ AND OTHER MATTERS | [78] | |
| CHAPTER IX | ||
| THE COPTIC CONVENTS OF WADI NATRUN | [90] | |
| CHAPTER X | ||
| THE MOSQUE OF ES-SALIH TALAI | [104] | |
| CHAPTER XI | ||
| THE BLUE MOSQUE AND KASR-ESH-SHEMA | [116] | |
| CHAPTER XII | ||
| THE SPHINX, AND A DISSERTATION ON TOMMYATKINS | [127] | |
| CHAPTER XIII | ||
| THE HAMSEEN, THE LAMP-SHOP, AND THEACCESSION OF SAID PASHA | [136] | |
| CHAPTER XIV | ||
| MOHAMMEDAN FESTIVALS: THE HOLY CARPET—THEFAST OF RAMADAN AND THE ASHURA | [151] | |
| CHAPTER XV | ||
| MORE RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCES, SPRING’S AWAKENING,AND THE CAIRENE HOUSE OF COUNT ZOGHEB | [170] | |
| CHAPTER XVI | ||
| DER EL-BAHRI, AND SOME INCIDENTS WHICHTOOK PLACE DURING MY STAY THERE | [178] | |
| CHAPTER XVII | ||
| DER EL-BAHRI (continued) | [194] | |
| CHAPTER XVIII | ||
| THE CROSS DESERT JOURNEY TO KOSSEIR | [206] | |
| CHAPTER XIX | ||
| THE VALLEY OF HAMMAMÂT | [221] | |
| CHAPTER XX | ||
| THE WADI FOWAKIYEH AND BÎR HAGI SULIMAN | [231] | |
| CHAPTER XXI | ||
| KOSSEIR | [245] | |
| CHAPTER XXII | ||
| EDFU AND THE QUARRIES OF GEBEL SILSILEH | [258] | |
| CHAPTER XXIII | ||
| MY EXPERIENCES AS AN INMATE OF A NATIVEHOSPITAL | [270] | |
ILLUSTRATIONS
| PAGE | ||
|---|---|---|
| THE SPHINX BY MOONLIGHT | [Frontispiece] | |
| WATER MELON SELLER | [8] | |
| AN ARAB WEDDING PROCESSION | [16] | |
| A CHEAP RIDE | [24] | |
| THE KHAN KHALIL, CAIRO | [32] | |
| SUK ES-SELAH, CAIRO | [48] | |
| ENTRANCE TO THE HAREEM | [56] | |
| THE TAKHTABOSH | [64] | |
| MOSQUE OF MOHAMMED BEY | [72] | |
| A CAIRENE CAFÉ | [80] | |
| THE TOMB OF SHEYKH ABD-EL-DEYM | [88] | |
| ARAB SCHOOL | [104] | |
| THE BLUE MOSQUE | [ 112] | |
| PERSIAN ALMSHOUSES | [128] | |
| THE STORE OF NASSÁN | [136] | |
| RETURN OF THE HOLY CARPET | [144] | |
| A FRUIT-STALL AT BULAK | [152] | |
| A THEBAN HOMESTEAD | [168] | |
| THE JACARANDA | [176] | |
| THE BIRTH COLONNADE IN THE TEMPLE OFHATSHEPSU | [184] | |
| THE HAIRDRESSER | [192] | |
| A MARKET ON THE EDGE OF THE DESERT | [208] | |
| THE TOMBS OF THE KHALIFS | [216] | |
| THE MOSQUE AT KOSSEIR | [232] | |
| DOORWAY IN THE TEMPLE OF ISIS | [240] | |
| POTTERY BAZAAR IN A NILE VILLAGE | [264] | |
| THE VILLAGE OF MARG | [272] | |