| CHAPTER I. | |
| PAGE | |
| What the Bookseller said—A Walk in Frankfort—What the Portresssaid—Glimpses of Landscapes—Forest and River—Würzburg—SteinWine—View from the Citadel-hill—A Change ofBedrooms—Coming to an Understanding with the Reader—GoodNight! | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Würzburg—The University—Red, Green, and Orange Caps—TheMarienkapelle—The Market—The Cathedral—The Palace—SpaciousCellars—A Professor's Hospitality—To Bamberg—Frost—Hof—AShabby Peace—The Arch-Poisoner—Dear Bread—APrime Minister Hanged—Altenburg—The Park—The Castle—Reminiscencesand Antiquities—The Chapel—The Princes' Vault—Wends—Costumesin the Market-place—Female Cuirassiers—Moreabout the Wends—Grossen Teich—The Plateau—The Cemetery—Werdau | [11] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Origin of Altenburg—Prosperous Burghers—A Princely Crime—HussitePlunderers—Luther's Visits—French Bonfire—ElectressMargaret's Dream—Kunz von Kauffungen—"Don't burn theFish"—A Conspiracy—Midnight Robbers—Two Young PrincesStolen—The Flight—The Alarm—The Köhler—The Rescue—KunzBeheaded—The Triller's Reward, and what a famous Authorsaid concerning it | [25] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Zwickau—Beer Bridge—Beer Mount—The Triller Estate—TrillerBierbrauerei—The Braumeister—The Beer—Four Hundredth Anniversaryof the Prinzenraub—A Friendly Clerk—"You willhave a Tsigger?"—Historical Portraits—A Good Name for aBrewery—A Case of Disinterestedness—Up the Church Tower—TheProspect—Princess Schwanhildis—The Fire-god Zwicz—Luther'sTable—The Church—Geysers—Petrified Beds—HistoricalHouses—Walk to Oberhaselau—The Card-players—TheWagoners | [33] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Across the Mulde—Scenery—Feet versus Wheels—Villages—EnglishCharacteristics—Timbered Houses—Schneeberg—Stones forLamps—The Way Sunday was Kept—The Church—A Wagon-loadof Music—A Surly Host—Where the Pepper Grows—Eybenstock—Neustädl—FirForests—Wildenthal—Four Sorts of Beer—PotatoDumplings—Up the Auersberg—Advertisements—TheSchool—The Instrument of Order—"Look at the Englishman"—TheErzgebirge—The Guard-house—Into Bohemia—Romish Symbols—Hirschenstand—AnotherGuard-house—Differences of Race—Czechsand Germans—Shabby Carpentry—Change of Scenery—Neudeck—Arriveat Carlsbad—A Glass Boot—Gossip | [43] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Dr. Fowler's Prescription—Carlsbad—"A Matlocky sort of a Place"—Springsand Swallows—Tasting the Water—The Cliffs and Terraces—ComicalSigns—The Wiese and its Frequenters—Diseaseand Health—The Sprudel: its Discharge; its Deposit—TheStoppage—Volcanic Phenomena—Dr. Granville's Observations—Care'sRest—Dreikreuzberg—View from the Summit—KönigOtto's Höhe—"Are you here for the Cure?"—Lenten Diet—Hirschsprung—TheTrumpeters—Two Florins for a Bed | [61] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Departure from Carlsbad—Dreifaltigkeits-Kirche—Engelhaus—TheCastle—A Melancholy Village—Up to the Ruins—An ImperialVisit—Bohemian Scenery—On to Buchau—The Inn—ACrowd of Guests—Roast Goose—Inspiriting Music—PromptWaiters—The Mysterious Passport—The Military Adviser—Howhe Solved the Mystery—A Baron in Spite of Himself—The Baron'sFootbath—Lighting the Baron to Bed | [77] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Dawn—The Noisy Gooseherd—Geese, for Home Consumption andExport—Still the Baron—The Ruins of Hartenstein—Glimpsesof Scenery and Rural Life—Liebkowitz—Lubenz—Schloss Petersburg—BigRooms—Tipplers and Drunkards—Wagoners and Peasants—AThrifty Landlord—Inquisitorial Book—Awful Gendarme—PaternalGovernment—Fidgets—How it is in Hungary—WetBlankets for Philosophers—An Unhappy Peasant | [86] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| The Village—The Peasant again—The Road-mender—Among theCzechs—Czechish Speech and Characteristics—Crosses—Horosedl—TheOld Cook—More Praise of England—The Dinner—A Journey-Companion—FamousFiles—A Mechaniker's Earnings—Kruschowitz—Rentsch—MoreCzechish Characteristics—NeuStraschitz—A Word in Season from Old Fuller—The Mechanikerdeparts | [96] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| A Talk with the Landlord—A Jew's Offer—A Ride in a Wagen—Talkwith the Jew—The Stars—A Mysterious Gun-barrel—AnAlarm—Stony Ammunition—The Man with the Gun—The Jew'sopinion of him—Sunrise—A Walk—The White Hill—A FatalField—Waking up in the Suburbs—Early Breakfasts—Imperialand Royal Tobacco—Milk-folk—The Gate of Prague—A SnappishSentry—The Soldiers—Into the City—Picturesque Features andcrowding Associations—The Kleinseite—The Bridge—Palaces—TheAltstadt—Remarkable Streets—The Teinkirche—The Neustadt—TheThree Hotels | [105] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| The Hausknecht—A Place to Lose Yourself—Street-Phenomena—Book-shops—Glass-wares—CavernousBeer-houses—Signs—CzechishNames—Ugly Women—Swarms of Soldiers—A Sceneon the Bridge—A Drateñik—The Ugly Passport Clerk—TheSuspension-bridge—The Islands—The Slopes of the Laurenzberg—Viewover Prague—Schools, Palaces, and Poverty—TheRookery—The Hradschin—The Courts—The Cathedral—TheGreat Tomb—The Silver Shrine—Relics—A Kissed Portrait—St.Wenzel's Chapel—Big Sigmund—The Loretto Platz—TheOld Towers—The Hill-top and Hill-foot | [118] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| The Tandelmarkt—Old Men and Boys at Rag Fair—Jews in Prague—TheJudenstadt—Schools and Synagogues—Remote Antiquity—DucalVictims—Jewish Bravery—Removal of Boundary Wires | [131] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| The Jewish Sabbath—The Old Synagogue—Traditions concerningit—The Gloomy Interior—The Priests—The Worshippers and theWorship—The Talkers—The Book of the Law—The Rabbi—TheStartling Gun—A Birth at Vienna—Departed Glory | [136] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| The Alte Friedhof—A Stride into the Past—The Old Tombs—Vegetationand Death—Haunted Graves—Ancient Epitaph—RabbiLöw—His Scholars—Symbols of the Tribes—The Infant's Coffin—ThePlayground—From Death to Life | [141] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| The Kolowratstrasse—Picolomini's Palace—The Museum—GeologicalAffluence—Early Czechish Bibles—Rare Old Manuscripts—Lettersof Huss and Ziska—Tabor Hill—Portraits—HussiteWeapons—Antiques—Doubtful Hussites in the Market-place—TheGlückliche Entbindung—A Te Deum—Two Evening Visits—BohemianHospitality—The Gaslit Beer-house | [146] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Sunday Morning in Prague—Gay Dresses—Pleasure-seeking Citizens—Servicein the Hradschin Cathedral—Prayers and Pranks—Funin the Organ-loft—Glorious Music—A Spell broken—Priestsand their Robes—Osculations—A Flaunting Procession—AnOld Topographer's Raptures—The Schwarzes Ross—Flightfrom Prague—Lobositz—Lost in a Swamp—A Storm—Up theMilleschauer—After Dark—The Summit—Mossy Quarters—TheHost's Story | [153] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Morning on the Milleschauer—The Brightening Landscape—TheMossy Quarters by Daylight—Delightful Down-hill Walk—Lobositzagain—The Steam-boat—Queer Passengers—SprightlyMusic—Romantic Scenery—Hills and Cliffs—Schreckenstein—Howthe Musicians paid their Fare—Aussig—The Spürlingstein—FairerLandscapes—Elbe versus Rhine—Tetschen—GermanFaces—Women-Waders—The Schoolmaster—Passport again—PrettyCountry—Signs of Industry—Peasants' Diet—Markersdorf—RusticCottages—Gersdorf—Meistersdorf—School—Tryingthe Scholars—Good Results—A Byeway—Ulrichsthal | [162] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| A Hospitable Reception—A Rustic Household—The Mother's Talk—PressingInvitations—A Docile Visitor—The Family Room—Trophiesof Industry—Overheating—A Walk in Ulrichsthal—AGlass Polisher and his Family—His Notions—A Glass Engraver—HisSkill and Ingenuity—His Earnings—A Bohemian'sOpinion on English Singing—Military Service—Beetle Pictures—Glass-makingin Bohemia—An Englishman's Forget-me-Not—TheDinner—Dessert on the Hill—An Hour with the Haymakers—MagicalKreutzers—An Evening at the Wirthshaus—Singingand Poetry—A Moonlight Walk—The Lovers' Test | [174] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| More Hospitality—Farewells—Cross Country Walk—Steinschönau—ThePlaybill—Hayda—All Glass-workers—Away for the Mountains—Zwickau—Gabel—Weisskirchen—APeasant's Prayer—Reichenberg—Passportagain—Jeschkenpeak—Reinowitz—Schlag—Neudorf—ATalk at Grünheid—Bad Sample of Lancashire—Tannwald—CuriousRocks—Spinneries—Populousness—Przichowitz—AnAltercation—Heavy Odds—The EnglishmanWins—A Word to the Company | [190] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| Stephanshöh—A Presumptuous Landlord—Czechs again—StewedWeavers—Prompt Civilities—The Iser—A Quiet Vale—Barrande'sOpinion of the Czechs—Rochlitz—An offshoot from Tyre—AHappy Landlord—A Rustic Guide—Hill Paths—The Grünstein—Rübezahl'sRose Garden—Dreary Fells—Source of theElbe—Solitude and Visitors—The Elbfall—Stony Slopes—StrangeRocks—Rübezahl's Glove—Knieholz—Schneegruben—View intoSilesia—Tremendous Cliffs—Basalt in Granite—The Landlord'sBazaar—The Wandering Stone—A Tragsessel—A Desolate Scene—RougherWalking—Musical Surprises—Spindlerbaude—TheMädelstein—Great Pond and Little Pond—The Mittagstein—TheRiesengrund—The Last Zigzags—An Inn in the Clouds | [201] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| Comforts on the Koppe—Samples of Germany—Provincial Peculiarities—Hilarity—ACouplet worth remembering—Four-beddedRooms—View from the Summit—Contrast of Scenery—TheSummit itself—Guides in Costume—Moderate Charges—UnluckyFarmer—The Descent—Schwarzkoppe—Grenzbäuden—HungarianWine—The Way to Adersbach—Forty Years' Experience | [218] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| The Frontier Guard-house—A Volunteer Guide—A Knave—Schatzlar—Bernsdorf—ABarefoot Philosopher—A Weaver'sHappiness—Altendorf—Queer Beer—A Short Cut—Blunt Manners—Adersbach—SingularRocks—Gasthaus zur Felsenstadt—TheRock City—The Grand Entrance—The Sugarloaf—ThePulpit—The Giant's Glove—The Gallows—The Burgomaster—LordBrougham's Profile—The Breslau Wool-market—TheShameless Maiden—The Silver Spring—The Waterfall—AWaterspout—The Lightning Stroke | [225] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| The Echo—Wonderful Orchestra—Magical Music—A Feu de joie—TheOration—The Voices—Echo and the Humourist—Satisfyingthe Guide—Exploring the Labyrinth—Curious Discoveries—Speculationsof Geologists—Bohemia an Inland Sea—MarbleLabyrinth in Spain—A Twilight View—After a' | [235] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| Baked Chickens—A Discussion—Weckelsdorf—More Rocks—TheStone of Tears—Death's Alley—Diana's Bath—The Minster—Gangof Coiners—The Bohdanetskis—Going to Church—AnotherSilesian View—Good-bye to Bohemia—Schömberg—SilesianFaces and Costume—Picturesque Market-place—Ueberschar Hills—Ullersdorf—Anamazed Weaver—Liebau—Cheap Cherries—ThePrussian Simplon—Ornamented Houses—Buchwald—TheBober—Dittersbach—Schmiedeberg—Rübezahl's Trick uponTravellers—Tourists' Rendezvous—The Duellists' Successors—Erdmannsdorf—TyroleseColony | [240] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| Schnaps and Sausage—Dresdener upon Berliners—The Prince'sCastle at Fischbach—A Home for the Princess Royal—Is the MarriagePopular?—View from the Tower—Tradition of the GoldenDonkey—Royal Palace at Erdmannsdorf—A Miniature Chatsworth—TheZillerthal—Käse and Brod—Stohnsdorf—FamousBeer—Rischmann's Cave—Prophecies—Warmbrunn | [250] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| The Three Berliners—Strong Beer—Origin of Warmbrunn—St.John the Baptist's Day—Count Schaffgotsch—A Benefactor—ALibrary—Something about Warmbrunn—The Baths—HealingWaters—The Allée—Visitors—Russian Popes—The Museum—Trophies—Viewof the Mountains—The Kynast—Cunigundaand her Lovers—Served her right—The Two Breslauers—Oblatt—TheBaths in the Mountains | [256] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| Hirschberg—The Officers' Tomb—A Night Journey—Spiller—Greifenberg—ChangingHorses—A Royal Reply—A Griffin's Nest—Lauban—ThePotato Jubilee—Görlitz—Peter and Paul Church—Viewfrom the Tower—The Landskrone—Jacob Böhme—TheHidden Gold—A Theosophist's Writings—The Tombs—The UndergroundChapel—A Church copied from Jerusalem—The PublicLibrary—Loebau—Herrnhut | [262] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| Head-Quarters of the Moravians—Good Buildings—Quiet, Cleanliness,and Order—A Gottesdienst—The Church—Simplicity—TheRibbons—A Requiem—The Service—God's-Field—The Tombs—SuggestiveInscriptions—Tombs of the Zinzendorfs—The Pavilion—ThePanorama—The Herrnhuters' Work—An InformingGuide—No Merry Voices—The Heinrichsberg—Pretty Grounds—TheFirst Tree—An Old Wife's Gossip—Evening Service—AContrast—The Sisters' House—A Stroll at Sunset—The NightWatch | [269] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| About Herrnhut—Persecutions in Moravia—A Wandering Carpenter—GoodTidings—Fugitives—Squatters on the Hutberg—CountZinzendorf's Steward—The First Tree—The First House—Scoffers—Originof the Name—More Fugitives—Foundationof the Union—Struggles and Encouragements—Buildings—SocialRegulations—Growth of Trade—War and Visitors—Dürninger'sEnterprise—Population—Schools—Settlements—Missions—Lifeat Herrnhut—Recreations—Festivals—Incidents of War—Marchof Troops—Praise and Thank-Feasts | [279] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| A Word with the Reader—From Herrnhut to Dresden—A GloomyCity—The Summer Theatre—Trip to the Saxon Switzerland—Wehlen—UttewaldeGrund—The Bastei—Hochstein—The Devil'sKettle—The Wolfschlucht—The Polenzthal—Schandau—TheKuhstall—Great Winterberg—The Prebischthor—Herniskretschen—Returnto Dresden—To Berlin—English and GermanRailways—The Royal Marriage Question—Speaking English—ADreary City—Sunday in Berlin—Kroll's Garden—Magdeburg—Wittenberg—Hamburg—A-topof St. Michael's—A Walk toAltona—A Ride to Horn—A North Sea Voyage—Narrow Escape—Harnessand Holidays | [291] |
| Index | [303] |
ERRATA.
Page 87, last line, for visitors, read villagers.
Page 153, 11 lines from bottom, for Hraba's, read Hraba's.
Page 153, 11 lines from bottom, for Pstrossischer, read Pstrossischer.
Page 172, last line of text, for Heilen, read Heiles.
A JULY HOLIDAY
IN
SAXONY, BOHEMIA, AND SILESIA.
CHAPTER I.
What the Bookseller said—A Walk in Frankfort—What the Portress said—Glimpses of Landscapes—Forest and River—Würzburg—Stein Wine—View from the Citadel-hill—A Change of Bedrooms—Coming to an Understanding with the Reader—Good Night!
"How happens it," I said to a bookseller in the Zeil, "that a map of Bohemia is not to be had in all Frankfort?"
"How it happens?" he answered, with a knowing smile: "because no one ever goes to Bohemia."