This book does not pretend to be a history or a complete record of Galicia. Its purpose is to show something of the life and character of a little-known part of Spain, and to deal with things seen and done by the visitor who travels under competent and comfortable guidance. I have written either of what I experienced or on the authority of prominent residents with whom I came in contact in my wanderings.

CONTENTS

Introduction[Pp. 1-21]
CHAPTER I
Galicia and Its People
The Real Galicia : The Hundred Maidens : The Glory of the North-West : Granite Hills : Gallegans and their Lives : Pigeon-cots and Maize-barns : The Night-watchman's Chant : Civil Guards and Constables : A Modest Breakfast : Eating and drinking : The Waiter as a Gentleman : Enterprise and Open-air Life : The Blessed "To-morrow" : Cigarettes : The Unexpected : Photography : Wine and a Bibber : Across the Biscay[Pp. 23-47]
CHAPTER II
Vigo Bay and Hills
Sun-bound : Sharp Contrasts : Devil-fish and Ink-fish : Sardines : A Spanish Infant : Vigo's Enterprise : The Lazaretto : Treasure-ships : A Grandee's Home : A Fishing-town : Memento mori : Handling Catches : Clubs and Warships : A Russian Funeral : Emigrants : A Valley Town : The Press and a Distributor : Borrow's Vigo[Pp. 49-67]
CHAPTER III
Spain's Jerusalem
Galicia's Patron Saint : Pilgrims and Pestilence : A Holy City : A Monumental History : Noisy Students : The Fascination of the Cathedral : Precious Relics : A Wealth of Silver : The Compostela : St. James's Sepulchre : The Gate of Glory : The Mighty Censer : Religious Festivals : Our Lady of the Rosary : St. James's Day Festivities : The Way of Blood and Tears : Mediæval Night : From Pilgrims' Hill[Pp. 69-96]
CHAPTER IV
Things Seen
More Contrasts : Bewildering Baedeker : A Galician Vineyard : Sabbath Peace : Wayside Inns : Security of Travel : Brawny Brigands : A Sonorous Tongue[Pp. 97-108]
CHAPTER V
The Atlantic Coast and the Frontier
Romantic Scenery : A Blighted Town : British Enterprise : The Napoleonic Wars : A Quaint Old Place : Galicia's Fjords : A Remarkable Lighthouse : Down to Portugal : Friendly Sentries : The Glories of the Miño : Orense and its Famous Bridge[Pp. 109-124]
CHAPTER VI
Locomotion
The Diligence : Railways : Galicia's Rolling-stock : The Solemnity of Journeying by Train : Motor-cars and Motor-buses : Beauty in the Saddle : Shocks in Travelling : "Drummers" of the North-West : Cycles and a Freak[Pp. 125-139]
CHAPTER VII
Mondariz
An Alluring Hotel : Beneficent Waters : A Noble Building : Pine Hills and Trout-streams : A Splendid Pump-room : The Logan of Arcos : Sobroso's Ruins : Creaking Bullock-carts : Peaceful Prospects[Pp. 141-151]
CHAPTER VIII
Galicia's Burden-bearers
The Woman with the Coffin : Women and Weights : Wages and Rent : My Pretty Maid : Hairdressing : Universal Washing : A Galician Funeral[Pp. 153-163]
CHAPTER IX
Arosa Bay and La Toja
A Favourite Anchorage for British Warships : Roman Remains : Religious Prisoners : Cortegada and the King of Spain : An Attractive Workhouse : Borrow and the Bible : An Arcaded Town : Columbus and his Ships : The Haunt of the Wolf : The Island of La Toja : A Wonderful Cure : Golf[Pp. 165-177]
CHAPTER X
Corunna and its Hero
The Most Happy and Invincible Armada : Modern Corunna : The Miradores : Wellington, Napoleon, and the Gallegans : The Peninsular War : The Tragedy of Moore's Retreat to Corunna : A Butchered Rearguard : Marvellous Marching : The Last Stand : Moore's Death : His Burial on Corunna's Ramparts[Pp. 179-194]
Index[Pp. 195-203]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
[Galicia's Golden Sands] (colour)Frontispiece
[A Land of Mountain and Flood] [1]
[Peasants in their Sunday Best]. [Fishwives] To face[8]
[A Galician Laundry] [23]
[A Galician Market Place] (colour) To face[25]
[A Granary]. [A Pigeon-cot] "[30]
[A Merry Roadside Group] "[37]
[A Cattle Market]. [An Open-air Market] "[41]
[San Simon's Island, Vigo Bay] [49]
[Vigo, Galicia's Gateway] (colour) To face[51]
[Galician Children]. [Afraid of the Camera] "[54]
[On the Quay at Vigo]. [Fishermen's Cottages at Cangas] "[61]
[Santiago, from the Alameda] [69]
[Santiago de Compostela] (colour) To face[71]
[One of Santiago's Twin Towers] "[74]
[Rua del Villar, Santiago] (colour) "[81]
[A Logan] [97]
[A Galician Village] (colour) To face[99]
[A Galician Fishing-boat]. [Men and Women rowing up Vigo Bay] "[104]
[The Church at Bouzas, on the Coast] [109]
[Tuy, a Hill City on the Frontier] (colour) To face[111]
[Ferrol, the Spanish Portsmouth] "[113]
[The Bridge at Ramallosa]. [The Shrine on the Bridge] "[118]
[Oxen towing a Broken-down Motor-bus] [125]
[Pontevedra by Night: the Bull-ring] (colour) To face[127]
[A Diligence on the Highway]. [Oxen Yoked to a Diligence] "[128]
[The Hills of Mondariz] [141]
[Mondariz] (colour) To face[143]
[A Peasant's Funeral in the Hills]. [A Peasant Woman, with her Distaff, driving a Bullock-cart] "[150]
[Gathering Firewood in the Pine Hills] [153]
[The Fishing Town of Marin] (colour) To face[155]
[A Maid of Cangas] "[159]
[Carrying Water]. [A Woman Threshing Beans] "[162]
[Arosa Bay] [165]
[The Island of La Toja] (colour) To face[167]
[The Torre de Hércules, Corunna] [179]
[A Road in the Hills] (colour) To face[181]
[Elviña, where Sir John Moore was Mortally Wounded]. [The House, Modernised, in which he died] "[191]
[Sir John Moore's Tomb at Corunna]. [Corunna Bay, from the Ramparts] "[194]
[Map of Galicia] [195]