Fig. 161.

[Figure 161] is a sectional view of the ends of a barrel; the diagram on the right is the end where the great wheels rest against, and the one on the left is the other end. The insides of both these ends are precisely the same, but the outsides differ a little. It will be observed that there is a little projection near the hole on the outside of the front end. This projection is left with the view of making the hole in the center longer, and thereby causing this end to take a firmer hold on the barrel arbor. The back end, or the end that the great wheels rest against, and where the ratchet teeth are cut, is shaped precisely like the diagram on the right of [Fig. 161]. If you cannot get brass plate of sufficient thickness for the ends of the barrel they must be cast.

The patterns for these barrel ends should be made without any hole in the center, and in every way heavier and thicker than they are to be when finished, because it is difficult to obtain good and solid castings when the patterns are made thin, although it is by no means impossible to make them so. Like all brass castings used for the clockmaker’s purpose, they should be carefully hammered, and, although these pieces are of an irregular shape, they can be easily hammered regularly with the aid of narrow-faced hammers or punches, and with the exercise of a little patience. After hammering, the castings should be placed on a face plate in the lathe, and the tube which is to form the top part of the barrel fitted easy and without shake on to the flanges and the other parts of the castings turned down to the required thickness, and a hole a little less than 0.3 of an inch diameter bored in the center of each before it is removed from the face plate. The tube which is to form the top of the barrel should be no heavier than is just necessary to cut a groove for the cord, and for this regulator it should be 1.5 inch diameter outside measurement, 1.5 inch long, and turned perfectly true on the ends.

The hole in the front end of the barrel, which is the end nearest to the dial, should be broached a little from the inside, and the other end broached a little larger from the outside. The reason for broaching the holes in this manner is to cause the thickest part of the barrel arbor to be at the place where the great wheels work, because, in making a barrel for a regulator, it will generally be found that the arbor requires to be thickest in this particular place. The arbor should be made from a piece of fine cast steel a little more than 0.3 of an inch thick, and not less than four inches long. It is always well to have the steel long enough. This steel should be carefully centered and turned true, and of the same size and taper as the holes in the barrel ends. It is not necessary that the barrel arbor should be hardened and tempered, except on special occasions. In most cases it will last as long as any other part of the clock if it is left soft, and it is much easier to make when soft. Before fitting the arbor to the barrel ends it is well to place the ends into the tube that is to form the top of the barrel, because a better fit can be made in this way than when each is fitted separately. When the arbor has been fitted, a good and convenient way of fastening it together is, to use soft solder. It can be easily heated to the required degree of heat with the blow-pipe. A very little solder is sufficient for the purpose, and if the joints have been well fitted the solder will not show when the work is finished. Care should be taken to notice that the solder adheres to the arbors properly. Perhaps it would be well to mention here that, should the clockmaker not have access to a cutting engine with conveniences attached to it for cutting the barrel ratchet after the barrel has been put together, the ratchet should be cut first.

When the different pieces which constitute a barrel have been fastened together the brass work has next to be turned true, and the grooves cut for the cord to run in. It is best not to turn anything off the arbor till the grooves are cut, because they are usually cut smoother when the arbor is strong. The most important points to notice when turning a barrel is to be sure that the top is of equal diameter from the one end to the other, and that the bearing where the great wheels rest against are perfectly true, because, if the top of a barrel is of unequal thickness, the weight will pull with unequal force as it runs down, and if the bearing on the end be out of truth the great wheels will also be very liable to get out of truth, as their position on the barrel is altered by winding the clock up.

The shape of the outside of the barrel ends, as is represented in [Fig. 161], will be found to be good and serviceable. AA is the bearing for the great wheels to rest against; BB is where the ratchet teeth are to be cut. There must be a little turned off the face of BB, as is shown in the diagram, so as to prevent the great wheel from rubbing on the teeth. The space between AA and the barrel arbor is turned smooth.

Although it is by no means an absolute necessity to have a groove cut in the top of the barrel, yet it is extremely desirable that there should be one, so that the cord may always be guided with certainty as the clock is wound up. It has long been a disputed question whether the cord should be fastened at the front end of the barrel and wind towards the back, or whether it should be fastened at the back and wind towards the front. I am not aware that there is any violation of principle, so far as the regularity of the power is concerned, whether the cord runs one way or the other. I understand it to be solely a question of keeping the weight clear of the case and the pendulum ball. In ordinary constructed regulator cases this object will be best attained by cutting the screw so that the cord can be fastened at the front of the barrel and wind towards the back; because in making it in this way, the weight is the length of the barrel farther away from the front of the case when it is wound up, and about the same distance farther away from the pendulum ball when it is nearly run down, than if the cord was fastened at the back end of the barrel and wound towards the front. The cutting of the groove is usually done in an ordinary screw cutting lathe.

In making the pivots on a barrel it is the usual custom to make the back pivot smaller than the front one but, with all due respect for this time-honored custom, I would direct a little attention to the philosophy of continuing to make the barrel pivots of a regulator in this manner. Friction varies with pressure; a large pivot has a greater amount of friction than a smaller one, because the pressure on the sliding surface of the revolving body is farther away from the center of motion in one case than in the other. In regulators where the barrel pivots are of a different size, the effective force of the weight will vary slightly according as the weight is fully wound up or nearly run down. In one instance the pressure of the weight is more directly on the large pivot than it is on the smaller one; and in the other instance the pressure is more directly on the small pivot than it is on the larger one, and when the weight is half wound up, or half run down, the pressure is equal on both pivots.

In the center pinion and in some of the other arbors of a clock, it is sometimes necessary to make one pivot considerably larger than the other; but in these cases the difference in the size of the pivots does not affect the regularity of the transmission of the power, because the pressure that turns the wheel is always at the same point. In a regulator barrel, however, the pressure of the cord and weight shifts gradually from one end of the barrel to the other, as the clock runs down, and when the pivots are of unequal thickness the power is transmitted nearly as irregular as if the top of the barrel was slightly conical and both pivots of the same size. For the above reason, I think, that it will be plain to all that in a fine clock both of the barrel pivots should be made of an equal diameter. The front pivot should be made no larger than is absolutely necessary for a winding square, and when we take the fact into consideration that a fine clock with a Graham escapement requires considerable less power to keep it in motion than an eight-day marine chronometer does, we may safely conclude that the winding squares of many regulators of the Graham class might be made smaller. A pivot about 0.2 of an inch will secure a sufficient amount of strength. For the reasons mentioned above, the back pivot should be exactly the same diameter, and although the effects of friction will be slightly greater when both pivots are of an equal size, still the force of the weight will be transmitted more regularly, which is the object aimed at. Where the plates are bushed a length of two to three diameters is long enough for the pivot holes.

The stop works, maintaining powers and general arrangement of the great wheel, ratchets and clicks, have been so fully described and illustrated on [pages 282 to 290], [Figs. 83 to 87], that it would be useless duplication to repeat them here, and the reader is therefore referred to those pages, for full particulars. This is also the case with the purely mechanical operations of cutting the wheels and pinions, hardening, polishing, staking, etc.; all have been fully treated; but there are some further considerations which may be mentioned here. The practical value of making pinions with very high numbers is very much over-rated. I know of two clocks situated in the same building that are compared every other day by transit observation. They both have Graham escapements and mercurial pendulums, and are equally well fitted up, and as far as the eye can detect, they are about equally well made in all the essential points, with only this difference: one clock has pinions of eight, and the other pinions of sixteen leaves, yet for two years one clock ran about equally as well as the other. In fact, if there was any difference, it was in favor of the clock with the eight-leaved pinions. In giving this example, I must not be understood to be placing little value on high numbered pinions. I know that in some instances they can be used to advantage. The idea that I want to illustrate at present is, that it is not in this direction that we are to search for the means of improving the rates of regulators.