h shows the regulating nut carried by the tube, as described, and terminating in the nut D.

l and i show the screw of 36 threads.

The nut D is to be divided on its edge into 30 divisions.

n is the angle of the back bar to which zinc is soldered.


Flat Compensated Rod.—One of the most easily made zinc and iron compensating pendulums, shown in detail in [Fig. 9], is as follows: A lead or iron bob, lens-shaped, that is, convex equally on each side, 9 inches diameter and an inch and one-quarter thick at the center. A hole to be made straight through its diameter ½ inch. One-half through the diameter this hole is to be enlarged to ⅝ inch diameter. This will make the hole for half of its length ½ inch and the remaining half ⅝ inch diameter. The ⅝ hole must have a thin tube, just fitting it, and 5 inches long. At one end of this tube is soldered in a nut, with a hole tapped with a tap of thirty-six threads to the inch, and ¼ inch diameter, and at the other end of the tube is soldered a collar or disc one inch diameter, which is to be divided into thirty divisions, for regulating purposes, as will be described later on. The whole forms a nut into which the rod screws, and the tube allows the nut to be pushed up to the center of the diameter of the bob, through the large hole, and the nut can be operated then by means of the disc at its lower end. The rod, of flat iron, is in two sections, as follows: That section which enters the bob and terminates in the regulating screw is flat for twenty-six inches, and then rounded to ½ inch for six inches, and a screw cut on its end for two inches, to fit the thread in the nut. The upper end of this section is then to be bent at a right angle, flatwise. This angle piece will be long enough if only ³⁄₁₆ inch long, so that it covers the thickness of the zinc center rod. The zinc center rod is a bar of the metal, hammered or rolled, 25 inches long, ³frasl;₁₆ inch thick, and ¾ inch wide, and comes up against the angle piece bent on the flat part of the lower section of the rod. Now the upper section of the rod may be an exact duplicate of the lower section, with the flat part only a little longer than the zinc bar, say ½ inch, and the angle turned on the end, as previously described. The balance of the bar may be forged into a rod of ⁵⁄₁₆ inch diameter. As has been stated, the zinc bar is placed against the angle piece bent on the upper end of the lower section of the rod, P, n, [Fig. 9], and pins must be put through this angle piece into the end of the zinc bar, to hold it in close contact with the iron bar. The upper section of the rod is now to be laid on the opposite side of the zinc bar, with its angle at the other end of the zinc, but not in contact with it, say ¹⁄₁₆ inch left between the angle and the zinc bar. Now all is ready to clamp together—the two flat iron bars with the zinc between them. After clamping, taking care to have the pinned end of the zinc in contact with the angle and the free, or lower end, removed from the other angle about ¹⁄₁₆ inch, three screws should be put through all three bars, with their heads all on the side selected for the front, and one screw may be an inch from the top, another 3 inches from the bottom, and one-half way between the two first mentioned. Now the rod is complete in its composite form, and there is left only the little detail to attend to. Two flat bars, with their ends angled in one case and rounded in the other into rods of given diameter, confining between them, as described, a flat bar of wrought zinc of stated length and of the same thickness and width as the iron bars, comprises the active or compensating elements of the pendulum’s rod. The screws that are put through the three bars are each to pass through the front iron bar, without threads in the bar, and only the back iron bar is to have the holes tapped, fitting the screws. All the corresponding holes in the zinc are to be reamed a little larger than the diameter of the screws, and to be freed lengthwise of the bar, to allow of the bar’s contracting and expanding without being confined in this action by the screws. At the lower or free end of the zinc bar are to be holes carried clear through all three bars, while the combination is held firmly together by the screws. These holes are to start at ½ inch from the end of the zinc, and each carried straight through all three bars, and then broached true and a steel pin made to accurately fit them from the front side. These holes may be from three to five in number, extending up to a safe distance from the lower screw. The holes in the back bar, after boring, are to be reamed larger than those in the front bar and zinc bar. These holes and the pin serve for adjusting the compensation. The pin holds the front bar and zinc from slipping, or moving past one another at the point pinned, and also allows the back bar to be free of the pin, and not under the influence of the two front bars. The upper end of the second iron section is, as has been mentioned, forged into a round rod about ⁵⁄₁₆ inch diameter, and this rod or upper end is to receive the pendulum suspension spring, which may be one single spring, or a compound spring, as preferred.

Now that the pendulum is all ready to balance on the knife edge, proceed as in the case of the simple pendulum, and ascertain at what point up the rod the spring must be placed. In this pendulum the rod will be heavier in proportion than the wood rod was to its bob, and the center of gravity of the whole will be found higher up in the bob. However, wherever in the bob the center of gravity is found, that is the starting point to measure from to find the total length of the rod, and the point for the spring. The heavier the rod is in relation to the bob, the higher will the center of gravity of the whole rise in the bob, and the greater will be the total length of the entire pendulum.

In getting up a rod of the kind just described, the main item is to get the parts all so arranged that there will be very little settling of the joints in contact, particularly those which sustain the weight of the bob and the whole dead weight of the pendulum. The nut in the center of the pendulum holds the weight of the bob only, but it should fit against the shoulder formed for the purpose by the juncture of the two holes, and the face of the nut should be turned true and flat, so that there may not be any uneven motion, and only the one imparted by the progressive one of the threads. When this nut is put to its place for the last time, and after all is finished, there should be a little tallow put on to the face of the nut just where it comes to a seat against the shoulder of the bob, as this shoulder being not very well finished, the two surfaces coming in contact, if left dry, might cut and tear each other, and help to make the nut’s action slightly unsteady and unreliable. A finished washer can be driven into this lower hole up to the center, friction-tight, and serve as a reliable and finished seat for the nut.

In reality, the zinc at the point of contact, where pinned to the angle piece at the top of the lower section, is the point of greatest importance in the whole combination, and if the joint between the angle and the end of the zinc bar is soldered with soft solder, the result will be that of greater certainty in the maintenance of a steady rate. This joint just mentioned can be soldered as follows: File the end of the zinc and the inside surface of the angle until they fit so that no appreciable space is left between them. Then, with a soldering iron, tin the end of the zinc thoroughly and evenly, and then put into the holes already made the two steady pins. Now tin in the same manner the surface of the angle, and see that the holes are free of solder, so that the zinc bar will go to its place easily; then between the zinc and the iron, place a piece of thin writing paper, so that the flat surfaces of the zinc and iron may not become soldered. Set the iron bar upright on a piece of charcoal, and secure it in this position from any danger of falling, and then put the zinc to its place and see that the pins enter and that the paper is between the surfaces, as described. Put the screws into their places, and screw down on the zinc just enough to hold it in contact with the iron bar, but not so tight that the zinc will not readily move down and rest firmly on the angle. Put a little soldering fluid on the tinned joint, and blow with a blow pipe against the iron bar (not touching the zinc with the flame). When the solder in the joint begins to flow, press the zinc down in close contact with the angle, and then cool gradually, and if all the points described have been attended to the joint will be solidly soldered, and the two bars will be as one solid bar bent against itself. The tinning leaves surplus solder on the surfaces sufficient to make a solid joint, and to allow some to flow into the pin holes and also solder the pin to avoid any danger of getting loose in after time, and helps make a much stronger joint. At the time the solder is melted the zinc is sufficiently heated to become quite malleable, and care must be taken not to force it down against the angle in making the joint, or it may be distorted and ruined at the joint. If carefully done the result will be perfect. The paper between the surfaces burns, and is got rid of in washing to remove the soldering fluid. Soda or ammonia will help to remove all traces of the fluid. However, it is best, as a last operation, to put the joint in alcohol for a minute.

This soldering makes the lower section and the zinc practically one piece and without loose joint, and the next joint is that made by the pin pinning the outside bar and the zinc together. This is necessarily formed this way, as in this stage of the operation we do not know just what length the zinc bar will be to exactly compensate for the expansion and contraction of the balance of the pendulum. By the changing of the pin into the different holes, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, [Fig. 9], the zinc is made relatively longer or shorter, and so a compensation is arrived at in time after the clock has been running. After it is definitely settled where the pin will remain to secure the compensation of the rod, then that hole can have a screw put in to match the three upper ones. This screw must be tapped into the front bar and the zinc, and be very free in the back bar to allow of its expansion. It is supposed that in this example given of a zinc and steel compensation seconds pendulum that there has been due allowance made in the lengths of the several bars to allow for adjustment to temperature by the movements of the pin along the course of the several holes described, but the zinc is a very uncertain element, and its ultimate action is largely influenced by its treatment after being cast. Differences of working cast zinc under the hammer or rolls produce wide differences practically, and therefore materially change the results in its combination with iron in their relative expansive action. Wrought zinc can be obtained of any of the brass plate factories, of any dimensions required, and will be found to be satisfactory for the purpose in hand.