The holes in the wheels being made, each collet may be turned to a little over its final size all over, and then driven on to its place on the pinion, so that a final turning may be made to ensure exact truth from the arbors’ own centers. When the collets are thus finished in their places on the arbors, and the wheels fitted to them, if it is a fine clock, such as a regulator, a hole may be drilled through each wheel and its collet to take a screw, the holes in the collet tapped, the holes in the wheels enlarged to allow the screw to pass freely through, and a countersink made to each, so that the screws, when finished, may be flush with the wheels. One hole having been thus made and the wheel fixed with a screw, the other two holes can be made so as to be true, which would not be so well accomplished if all the holes were attempted at once. The spacing of the three screws will be accurate enough if the wheel arms be taken as a guide. If all this has been correctly done, the wheels will go to their places quite true, both in the round and the flat, and may be taken off for polishing, and replaced true with certainty, any number of times.

The polishing of the pivots should be as fine as possible; all should be well burnished, to harden them and make them as smooth as possible if it is a common job; if a fine one with hardened arbors the pivots may be ground and polished as in watch work; if the workman has a pivot polisher and some thin square edged laps this is a short job and should be done before cutting off the centers and rounding the ends of the pivots. During all this work the wheels, as a matter of course, will be removed from the pinions, and may now be again temporarily screwed on, the polishing of them being deferred till the last, as otherwise they would be liable to be scratched.

Lantern Pinions.—The lantern pinion is little understood outside of clock factories and hence it is generally underrated, especially by watchmakers and those working generally in the finer branches of mechanics. It will never be displaced in clock work, however, on account of the following specific advantages:

1. It offers the greatest possible freedom from stoppage owing to dirt getting into the pinions, as if a piece large enough to jam and stop a clock with cut pinions, gets into the lantern pinion, it will either fall through at once or be pushed through between the rounds of the pinion by the tooth of the wheel and hence will not interfere with its operation. It is therefore excellently adapted to run under adverse circumstances, such as the majority of common clocks are subjected to.

2. Without giving the reasons it is demonstrable that as smooth a motion may be got by a lantern pinion as by a solid radial pinion of twice the number, and that the force required to overcome the friction of the lantern is therefore much less than with the other. It follows that such pinions can be used with advantage in the construction of all cheap and roughly constructed clocks which are daily turned out in thousands to sell at a low price.

3. We have before pointed out the enormous advantages of small savings per movement in clock factories which are turning out an annual product of millions of clocks, and without going into details, it is sufficient to refer to the fact that where eight or ten millions of clocks are to be made annually the difference in the cost of keeping up the drills and other tools for lantern pinions over the cost of similar work on the cutters for solid pinions is sufficient to have a marked influence upon the cost of the goods. Then the rapidity with which they can be made and the consequent smallness of the plant as compared with that which must be provided for turning out an equal number of cut pinions is also a factor. There are other features, but the above will be sufficient to show that it is unlikely that the lantern pinion will ever be displaced in the majority of common clocks. From seventy-five to ninety per cent of the clocks now made have lantern pinions.

The main difference between lantern and cut pinions mechanically is that as there is no radial flank for the curve of the wheel tooth to press against in the lantern pinion the driving is all done on or after the line of centers, except in the smaller numbers, and hence the engaging or butting friction is entirely eliminated when the pinion is driven, as is always the case in clock work. Where the pinion is the driver, however, this condition is reversed and the driving is all before the line of centers, so that it makes a very bad driver and this is the reason why it is never used as a driving pinion. This, of course, bars it from use in a large class of machinery.

The actual making of lantern pinions will be found to offer no difficulties to those who possess a lathe with dividing arrangements, a slide rest, and a drill holder or pivot polisher to be fixed on it. The pitch circle, being through the centers of the pins, can be got with great accuracy by setting the drill point first to the center of the lathe, reading the division on the graduated head of the slide rest screw, and moving the drill point outwards to the exact amount of the semi-diameter of the pitch circle. This presupposes the slide rest screw being cut to a definite standard, as the inch or the meter, and all measurements of wheels and pinions being worked out to the same standard, the choice of the standard being immaterial. If the slide rest screw is not standardized the pitch circle may be traced with a graver and the drill set to center on the line so traced.

The heads of the pinions may be made either of two separate discs, each drilled separately, and carefully fitted on the arbor so that the pins may be exactly parallel with the arbor; or, of one solid piece bored through the center, turned down deep enough in the middle, and the drill sent right through the pin holes for both sides at one operation. The former way will be necessary when the number of pins is small, but the latter is better when the numbers are large enough to allow of considerable body in the center. In either case it is advisable to drill only part way through one shroud and to close the holes in the other with a thin brass washer pressed on the arbor and turned up to look like part of the shroud after the pins are fitted in the holes. This makes a much neater way of closing the holes than riveting and takes but a moment where only one or two pinions are being made.

There is no essential proportion for the thickness of the pins or rounds. In mathematical investigations these are always taken at first as mere points of no thickness at all; then the diameters are increased to workable proportions, and the width of the wheel tooth correspondingly reduced until there is a freedom or a little shake. If much power has to be transmitted, the pins, or “staves,” as they are called in large work, have to be strong enough to stand the strain, but, as the strain in clockwork is very small, the pins need not be nearly as thick as the breadth of a wheel tooth. In modern factory practice the custom is to have the diameter of the rounds equal to the thickness of the leaf of a cut pinion of similar size, the measurement being taken at the pitch circle of the cut pinion. As we have already given the proportions observed in good practice on cut pinions they need not be repeated here. Another practice is to have wheel teeth and spaces equal; when this is done the spacing of all pinions above six leaf is to have the rounds occupy three parts and the space five parts.