To determine the lengths of clock cords or weights, we may have to approach the question from either end. If the clock be brought in without the cords, we first count the number of turns we can get on the barrel. This may be done by measuring the length of the barrel and dividing it by the thickness of the cord, if the barrel is smooth, or by counting the grooves if it be a grooved barrel. Next we caliper the diameter and add the thickness of one cord, which gives us the diameter of the barrel to the center of the cords, which is the real or working diameter. Multiply the distance so found by 3.14156, which gives the circumference of the barrel, or the length of cord for one turn of the barrel. Multiply the length of one turn by the number of turns and we have the length of cord on the barrel, when it is fully wound. If the cord is to be attached to the weight, measure the distance from the center of barrel to the bottom of the seat board and leave enough for tying. If the weight is on a pulley it will generally require about twelve inches to reach from the barrel through the slot of the seat board, through the pulley to the point of fastening.
To get the fall of the weight, stand it on the bottom of the case and measure the distance from the top of the point of attachment to the bottom of the seat board. This will generally allow the weight to fall within two inches of the bottom and thus keep the cable tight when the clock runs down; thus avoiding kinks and over-riding when we wind again after allowing the clock to run down. If the weight has a pulley and double cord, measure from the top of the pulley to the seatboard, with the weight on the bottom, and then double this measurement for the length of the cord. This measure is multiplied by as many times as there are pulleys in the case of additional sheaves. Striking trains are frequently run with two coils or layers of cord, on the barrel, time trains never have but one.
Now, having the greatest available length of cord determined according either of the above conditions, we can determine the number of turns for which we have room on our barrel and divide the length of cord by the number of turns. This will give us the length of one turn of the cord on our barrel and thus having found the circumference it is easy to find the diameter which we must give our barrel in suiting a movement to given dimensions of the case. This is frequently done where the factory may want a movement to fit a particular style and size of case which has proved popular, or when a watchmaker desires to make a movement for which he has, or will buy, a case already made.
As to tower clock cables, getting the length of cable on the barrel is, of course, the same as given above, but the rest of it is an individual problem in every case, as cables are led so differently and the length of fall varies so that only the professional tower clock men are fitted to make the measurements for new work and they require no instruction from me. It might be well to add, however, that in the tower clocks by far the greater part of the cable is always outside the clock and only the inner end coils and uncoils about the barrel. It is for this reason that the outer ends of the cables are so generally neglected by watchmakers in charge of tower clocks and allowed to cut and rust until they drop their weights. Caretakers of tower clocks should remember that the inner ends of cables are always the best ends; the parts that need watching are those in the sheaves or leading to the sheaves. Tower clocks should have the cables marked where to stop to prevent overwinding.
In chain drives for the weights of cuckoo and other clocks with exposed weights, we have generally a steel sprocket wheel with convex guiding surfaces each side of the sprocket and projecting flanges each side of the guides; one of these flanges is generally the ratchet wheel. The ratchet wheel, guide, sprocket, guide and flange, form a built-up wheel which is loose on the arbor and is pinned close to the great wheel, which is driven by a click on the wheel working into the ratchet of the drive. It must be loose on the arbor, because the clock is wound by pulling the sprocket and ratchet backward by means of the chain until the weight is raised clear up to the seat board. There are no squares on the arbors, which have ordinary pivots at both ends, and the great wheel is fast on the arbor. The diameter of the convex portion of the wheel each side of the sprocket is the diameter of the barrel, and the chain should fit so that alternate links will fit nicely in the teeth of the sprocket; where this is not the case they will miss a link occasionally and the weight will then fall until the chain catches again, when it will stop with a jerk; bent or jammed links in the chain will do the same thing. Sometimes a light chain on a heavy weight will stretch or spread the links enough to make their action faulty. If examination shows a tendency to open the links, they should be soldered; if they are stretching, a heavier chain of correct lengths of links should be substituted. Twisted chains are another characteristic fault and are usually the result of bent or jammed links. A close examination of such a chain will generally reveal several links in succession which are not quite flat and careful straightening of these links will generally cure the tendency to twist.
Mainsprings for Clocks.--There are many points of difference between mainsprings for clocks and those for watches. They differ in size, strength, number of coils and in their effect on the rates of the clock.
Watch springs are practically all for 30-hour lever escapements, with a few cylinder, duplex and chronometer escapements. If a fusee watch happens into a shop nowadays it is so rare as to be a curiosity worth stopping work to look at.
The clocks range all the way from 30 hours to 400 days in length of time between windings and include lever, cylinder, duplex, dead beat, half dead beat, recoil and other escapements. Furthermore some of these, even of the same form of escapements, will vary so in weight and the consequent influence of the spring that what will pass in one case will give a wildly erratic rate in another instance. Many of the small French clocks have such small and light pendulums that very nice management of the stop works is necessary to prevent the clock from gaining wildly when wound or stopping altogether when half run down.
Nothing will cause a clock with a cylinder escapement to vary in time more than a set or gummy mainspring, for it will gain time when first wound and lose when half run down, or when there is but little power on the train. In such a case examine the mainspring and see that it is neither gummy nor set. If it is set, put in a new spring and you can probably bring it to time.
With a clock it depends entirely on the kind of escapement that it contains, whether it runs faster or slower, with a stronger spring; if you put a stronger mainspring in a clock that contains a recoil escapement the clock will gain time, because the extra power, transmitted to the pallets will cause the pendulum to take a shorter arc, therefore gain time, where the reverse occurs in the dead-beat escapement. A stronger spring will cause the dead-beat pendulum to take a longer arc and therefore lose time.