THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE
Digested from his journal
by Washington Irving
Originally published in 1837
CONTENTS
[ Introductory Notice ]
[ 1. -- State of the fur trade of the—Rocky Mountains—American enterprises—General—Ashley and his associates—Sublette, a famous leader—Yearly rendezvous among the mountains— Stratagems and dangers of the trade—Bands of trappers— Indian banditti—Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers—Traders of the—Far West—Character and habits of the trapper ]
[ 2. -- Departure from—Fort Osage—Modes of transportation—Pack- horses—Wagons—Walker and Cerre; their characters—Buoyant feelings on launching upon the prairies—Wild equipments of the trappers—Their gambols and antics—Difference of character between the American and French trappers—Agency of the Kansas—General—Clarke—White Plume, the Kansas chief—Night scene in a trader’s camp—Colloquy between— White Plume and the captain—Bee-hunters—Their expeditions—Their feuds with the Indians—Bargaining talent of White Plume ]
[ 3. -- Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills—Slabs of sandstone Nebraska or Platte River—Scanty fare—Buffalo skulls—Wagons turned into boats—Herds of buffalo—Cliffs resembling castles—The chimney—Scott’s Bluffs Story connected with them—The bighorn or ahsahta—Its nature and habits—Difference between that and the “woolly sheep,” or goat of the mountains ]
[ 4. -- An alarm—Crow—Indians—Their appearance—Mode of approach —Their vengeful errand—Their curiosity—Hostility between the Crows and Blackfeet—Loving conduct of the Crows— Laramie’s Fork—First navigation of the—Nebraska—Great elevation of the country—Rarity of the atmosphere—Its effect on the wood-work of wagons—Black Hills—Their wild and broken scenery—Indian dogs—Crow trophies—Sterile and dreary country—Banks of the Sweet Water—Buffalo hunting— Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook ]
[ 5. -- Magnificent scenery—Wind River—Mountains—Treasury of waters—A stray horse—An Indian trail—Trout streams—The Great Green River Valley—An alarm—A band of trappers— Fontenelle, his information—Sufferings of thirst— Encampment on the Seedskedee—Strategy of rival traders— Fortification of the camp—The—Blackfeet—Banditti of the mountains—Their character and habits ]
[ 6. -- Sublette and his band—Robert—Campbell—Mr. Wyeth and a band of “down-easters”—Yankee enterprise—Fitzpatrick—His adventure with the Blackfeet—A rendezvous of mountaineers— The battle of—Pierre’s Hole—An Indian ambuscade— Sublette’s return ]
[ 7. -- Retreat of the Blackfeet—Fontenelle’s camp in danger— Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet—Free trappers—Their character, habits, dress, equipments, horses—Game fellows of the mountains—Their visit to the camp—Good fellowship and good cheer—A carouse—A swagger, a brawl, and a reconciliation ]
[ 8. -- Plans for the winter—Salmon River—Abundance of salmon west of the mountains—New arrangements—Caches—Cerre’s detachment—Movements in—Fontenelle’s camp—Departure of the—Blackfeet—Their fortunes—Wind—Mountain streams— Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear—Bones of murdered travellers—Visit to Pierre’s Hole—Traces of the battle—Nez—Perce—Indians—Arrival at—Salmon River ]
[ 9. -- Horses turned loose—Preparations for winter quarters— Hungry times—Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific habits, religious ceremonies—Captain Bonneville’s conversations with them—Their love of gambling ]
[ 10.-- Black Feet in the Horse Prairie—Search after the hunters— Difficulties and dangers—A card party in the wilderness— The card party interrupted—“Old Sledge” a losing game— Visitors to the camp—Iroquois hunters—Hanging-eared Indians ]
[ 11. -- Rival trapping parties—Manoeuvring—A desperate game— Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet—Deserted camp fire—A dark defile—An Indian ambush—A fierce melee—Fatal consequences—Fitzpatrick and Bridger—Trappers precautions —Meeting with the Blackfeet—More fighting—Anecdote of a young—Mexican and an Indian girl. ]
[ 12. -- A winter camp in the wilderness—Medley of trappers, hunters, and Indians—Scarcity of game—New arrangements in the camp—Detachments sent to a distance—Carelessness of the Indians when encamped—Sickness among the Indians— Excellent character of the Nez-Perces—The Captain’s effort as a pacificator—A Nez-Perce’s argument in favor of war— Robberies, by the Black feet—Long suffering of the Nez- Perces—A hunter’s Elysium among the mountains—More robberies—The Captain preaches up a crusade—The effect upon his hearers.]
[ 13. -- Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.]
[ 14. -- The party enters the mountain gorge—A wild fastness among hills—Mountain mutton—Peace and plenty—The amorous trapper-A piebald wedding—A free trapper’s wife—Her gala equipments—Christmas in the wilderness. ]
[ 15. -- A hunt after hunters—Hungry times—A voracious repast— Wintry weather—Godin’s River—Splendid winter scene on the great—Lava Plain of Snake River—Severe travelling and tramping in the snow—Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian horseman—Encampment on Snake River—Banneck Indians—The horse chief—His charmed life.]
[ 16. -- Misadventures of Matthieu and his party—Return to the caches at Salmon River—Battle between Nez Perces and Black feet—Heroism of a Nez Perce woman—Enrolled among the braves.]
[ 17. -- Opening of the caches—Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss Salmon River Mountains—Superstition of an Indian trapper— Godin’s River—Preparations for trapping—An alarm—An interruption—A rival band—Phenomena of Snake River Plain Vast clefts and chasms—Ingulfed streams—Sublime scenery—A grand buffalo hunt.]
[ 18. -- Meeting with Hodgkiss—Misfortunes of the Nez Perces— Schemes of Kosato, the renegado—His foray into the Horse Prairie—Invasion of Black feet—Blue John and his forlorn hope—Their generous enterprise—Their fate—Consternation and despair of the village—Solemn obsequies—Attempt at Indian trade—Hudson’s Bay Company’s monopoly—Arrangements for autumn—Breaking up of an encampment.]
[ 19. -- Precautions in dangerous defiles—Trappers’ mode of defence on a prairie—A mysterious visitor—Arrival in Green River Valley—Adventures of the detachments—The forlorn partisan —His tale of disasters.]
[ 20. -- Gathering in Green River valley—Visitings and feastings of leaders—Rough wassailing among the trappers—Wild blades of the mountains—Indian belles—Potency of bright beads and red blankets—Arrival of supplies—Revelry and extravagance —Mad wolves—The lost Indian]
[ 21. -- Schemes of Captain Bonneville—The Great Salt Lake Expedition to explore it—Preparations for a journey to the Bighorn]
[ 22. -- The Crow country—A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows— Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man—His fights with the Blackfeet—His elevation—His death—Arapooish, the Crow chief—His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell—Honor among Crows]
[ 23. -- Departure from—Green River valley—Popo-Agie—Its course— The rivers into which it runs—Scenery of the Bluffs the great Tar Spring—Volcanic tracts in the Crow country— Burning Mountain of Powder River—Sulphur springs—Hidden fires—Colter’s Hell-Wind River—Campbell’s party— Fitzpatrick and his trappers—Captain Stewart, an amateur traveller—Nathaniel Wyeth—Anecdotes of his expedition to the Far West—Disaster of Campbell’s party—A union of bands—The Bad Pass—The rapids—Departure of Fitzpatrick— Embarkation of peltries—Wyeth and his bull boat—Adventures of Captain—Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains—Adventures in the plain—Traces of Indians—Travelling precautions— Dangers of making a smoke—The rendezvous]
[ 24. -- Adventures of the party of ten—The—Balaamite mule—A dead point—The mysterious elks—A night attack—A retreat— Travelling under an alarm—A joyful meeting—Adventures of the other party—A decoy elk—Retreat to an island—A savage dance of triumph—Arrival at Wind River]
[ 25. -- Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley—Journey up the Popo Agie—Buffaloes—The staring white bears—The smok—The warm springs—Attempt to traverse the Wind River Mountains—The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms— Crystal lakes—Ascent of a snowy peak—Sublime prospect—A panorama “Les dignes de pitie,” or wild men of the mountains]
[ 26. -- A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent—Alpine scenery—Cascades—Beaver valleys—Beavers at work—Their architecture—Their modes of felling trees—Mode of trapping beaver—Contests of skill—A beaver “up to trap”—Arrival at the Green River caches]
[ 27. -- Route toward—Wind River—Dangerous neighborhood—Alarms and precautions—A sham encampment—Apparition of an Indian spy— Midnight move—A mountain defile—The Wind River valley— Tracking a party—Deserted camps—Symptoms of Crows—Meeting of comrades—A trapper entrapped—Crow pleasantry—Crow spies—A decampment—Return to Green River valley—Meeting with Fitzpatrick’s party—Their adventures among the Crows— Orthodox Crows ]
[ 28. -- A region of natural curiosities—The plain of white clay— Hot springs—The Beer Spring—Departure to seek the free trappers—Plain of Portneuf—Lava—Chasms and gullies— Bannack Indians—Their hunt of the buffalo—Hunter’s feast— Trencher heroes—Bullying of an absent foe—The damp comrade—The Indian spy—Meeting with Hodgkiss—His adventures—Poordevil Indians—Triumph of the Bannacks— Blackfeet policy in war]
[ 29. -- Winter camp at the Portneuf—Fine springs—The Bannack Indians—Their honesty—Captain—Bonneville prepares for an expedition—Christmas—The American—Falls—Wild scenery— Fishing Falls—Snake Indians—Scenery on the Bruneau—View of volcanic country from a mountain—Powder River— Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers—Their character, habits, habitations, dogs—Vanity at its last shift]
[ 30. -- Temperature of the climate—Root Diggers on horseback—An Indian guide—Mountain prospects—The Grand Rond— Difficulties on Snake River—A scramble over the Blue Mountains—Sufferings from hunger—Prospect of the Immahah Valley—The exhausted traveller]
[ 31. -- Progress in the valley—An Indian cavalier—The captain falls into a lethargy—A Nez-Perce patriarch—Hospitable treatment—The bald head—Bargaining—Value of an old plaid cloak—The family horse—The cost of an Indian present]
[ 32. -- Nez-Perce camp—A chief with a hard name—The Big Hearts of the East—Hospitable treatment—The Indian guides— Mysterious councils—The loquacious chief—Indian tomb— Grand Indian reception—An Indian feast—Town-criers— Honesty of the Nez-Perces—The captain’s attempt at healing.]
[ 33. -- Scenery of the Way-lee-way—A substitute for tobacco— Sublime scenery of—Snake River—The garrulous old chief and his cousin—A Nez-Perce meeting—A stolen skin—The scapegoat dog—Mysterious conferences—The little chief—His hospitality—The captain’s account of the United States—His healing skill]
[ 34. -- Fort Wallah-Wallah—Its commander—Indians in its neighborhood—Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their improvement—Religion—Code of laws—Range of the Lower Nez Perces—Camash, and other roots—Nez—Perce horses— Preparations for departure—Refusal of supplies—Departure— A laggard and glutton]
[ 35. -- The uninvited guest—Free and easy manners—Salutary jokes— A prodigal son—Exit of the glutton—A sudden change in fortune—Danger of a visit to poor relations—Plucking of a prosperous man—A vagabond toilet—A substitute for the very fine horse—Hard travelling—The uninvited guest and the patriarchal colt—A beggar on horseback—A catastrophe—Exit of the merry vagabond]
[ 36. -- The difficult mountain—A smoke and consultation—The captain’s speech—An icy turnpike—Danger of a false step— Arrival on Snake River—Return to—Portneuf—Meeting of comrades ]
[ 37. -- Departure for the rendezvous—A war party of Blackfeet—A mock bustle—Sham fires at night—Warlike precautions— Dangers of a night attack—A panic among horses—Cautious march—The Beer Springs—A mock carousel—Skirmishing with buffaloes—A buffalo bait—Arrival at the rendezvous— Meeting of various bands]
[ 38. -- Plan of the Salt Lake expedition—Great sandy deserts— Sufferings from thirst—Ogden’s—River—Trails and smoke of lurking savages—Thefts at night—A trapper’s revenge— Alarms of a guilty conscience—A murderous victory— Californian mountains—Plains along the—Pacific—Arrival at—Monterey—Account of the place and neighborhood—Lower— California—Its extent—The Peninsula—Soil—Climate— Production—Its settlements by the Jesuits—Their sway over the Indians—Their expulsion—Ruins of a missionary establishment—Sublime scenery—Upper California Missions— Their power and policy—Resources of the country—Designs of foreign nations ]
[ 39. -- Gay life at Monterey—Mexican horsemen—A bold dragoon—Use of the lasso—Vaqueros—Noosing a bear—Fight between a bull and a bear—Departure from Monterey—Indian horse stealers— Outrages committed by the travellers—Indignation of Captain Bonneville ]
[ 40. -- Traveller’s tales—Indian lurkers—Prognostics of Buckeye Signs and portents—The medicine wolf—An alarm—An ambush The captured provant—Triumph of Buckeye—Arrival of supplies Grand carouse—Arrangements for the year—Mr. Wyeth and his new-levied band.]
[ 41. -- A voyage in a bull boat.]
[ 42. -- Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia—Advance of Wyeth—Efforts to keep the lead—Hudson’s Bay party—A junketing—A delectable beverage—Honey and alcohol—High carousing—The Canadian “bon vivant”—A cache—A rapid move Wyeth and his plans—His travelling companions—Buffalo hunting More conviviality—An interruption.]
[ 43. -- A rapid march—A cloud of dust—Wild horsemen—“High Jinks” Horseracing and rifle-shooting—The game of hand—The fishing season—Mode of fishing—Table lands—Salmon fishers—The captain’s visit to an Indian lodge—The Indian girl—The pocket mirror—Supper—Troubles of an evil conscience.]
[ 44. -- Outfit of a trapper—Risks to which he is subjected— Partnership of trappers—Enmity of Indians—Distant smoke—A country on fire—Gun Greek—Grand Rond—Fine pastures— Perplexities in a smoky country—Conflagration of forests.]
[ 45. -- The Shynses—Their traffic—Hunting—Food—Horses—A horse- race—Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and Flatheads—Prayers—Exhortations—A preacher on horseback Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes—A new light.]
[ 46. -- Scarcity in the camp—Refusal of supplies by the Hudson’s Bay Company—Conduct of the Indians—A hungry retreat—John Day’s River—The Blue Mountains—Salmon fishing on Snake River Messengers from the Crow country—Bear River Valley— immense migration of buffalo—Danger of buffalo hunting—A wounded Indian—Eutaw Indians—A “surround” of antelopes.]
[ 47. -- A festive winter—Conversion of the Shoshonies—Visit of two free trappers—Gayety in the camp—A touch of the tender passion—The reclaimed squaw—An Indian fine lady—An elopement—A pursuit—Market value of a bad wife.]
[ 48. -- Breaking up of winter quarters—Move to Green River—A trapper and his rifle—An arrival in camp—A free trapper and his squaw in distress—Story of a Blackfoot belle.]
[ 49. -- Rendezvous at Wind River—Campaign of Montero and his brigade in the Crow country—Wars between the Crows and Blackfeet—Death—of Arapooish—Blackfeet lurkers—Sagacity of the horse—Dependence of the hunter on his horse—Return to the settlements.]
[ Appendix ]
[ Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast ]
[ Instructions to Captain Bonneville ]