Botanical features of the Algerian Sahara

by William Austin Cannon

Upon leaving Algiers one soon encounters a striking change in the character of the vegetation, evidences of a rather small rainfall and a low humidity, and one appreciates the fact that even near the coast the climate of the colony is fairly arid. A fine general view of the region about Algiers, giving at a glance its setting and these features, is to be had from the heights behind the city. In the words of Tristram (The Great Sahara):

Here we turned to observe the magnificent panorama of the city and the harbour below, with the bay stretching far beyond, the slopes of Mustapha on the right studded with villas, the Sahel range terminating beyond the massive tower of the seminary of Kouba, the conspicuous Maison Carée . . . planted where the plain of the Metidjeh opens to the sea, the range of the lesser Atlas in the distance beyond, and the peaks of the Djudjura, the last stronghold of the Kabyles, behind them, capped with snow.

Crossing the plain of the Mitidja (Metidjeh), the route runs through a country devoted largely to the raising of wine grapes, with bare hillsides, or hills covered with low shrubs and small trees, and, following a custom derived from France, with either side of the highway lined with trees, mulberry and ash. At the base of the Atlas we see large orange-groves and numerous fig trees. The lower slopes of the mountains are covered with a chaparral-like growth, and as one penetrates the mountains, ascending gradually alongside the Oued Chiffa, he sees, among other forms, extensive areas of dwarf palm, doum (Chamærops humilis), which resembles remotely the familiar saw-palmetto of the southern portion of the United States. The leaves of the doum are gathered by the Arabs for making into baskets, rope and other useful articles, and several donkeys laden with doum bales were observed being vigorously driven marketward by their small bournoused masters. On the sides of the gorge one sees species of delicate ferns, bunch-grass in tumbling masses (very luxuriant where there is moisture), chestnut, arbutus, and masses of evergreen ivy overhanging the way in places. At one place, fairly high in the mountains, a colony of native monkeys has found a safe retreat and may be frequently seen gamboling among the rocks and the shrubs near the stream. They were seen and described by Tristram about 50 years ago, who states that they “are of the same species as those of the rock of Gibraltar.” Here are a few oaks, myrtles, some “dherou” (Pistacia sp.), and a few and scattering specimens of Pinus halepensis. The upper portion of the mountain, at least of the part seen, is nearly treeless, and is under some cultivation. After leaving the pass a drive of a few minutes brought us to the old Roman town of Medea, which appears from the character of the vegetation, both native and introduced, to have a cooler as well as drier climate than Algiers. Conspicuous among the ornamentals are the Judas tree and the plane, both planted much about the town; among the fruits the apple is cultivated extensively.

From Medea to Berrouaghia the mountain range is broken up into large rounded hills, in part cultivated, but almost wholly open, scantily covered with shrubs or trees and mainly grazed over by large flocks of sheep and goats. About midway between the two places we pass through an open forest of oaks, from whose boles the bark has been removed. A chance acquaintance told us that the cork was removed about once in four years, but this is probably not the true cork oak (Quercus suber), which grows under more moist conditions, as between Tunis and Constantine, or between the latter place and Algiers, along the littoral. The altitude of this region is somewhat under 4,000 feet.

From Berrouaghia to Boghari, which is on the northern edge of the High Plateau, the route runs through an open grazing country, with scattering oaks (Quercus ballota), juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus), and “dherou” (Pistacia lentiscus), and, among other herbaceous plants, not a little bunch-grass, whose species I did not learn. On the northern slopes of Mount Gorno, 3,500 feet, is an open forest of oak of the species named, the formation recalling the chaparral of California. Upon reaching the crest of the mountain one is suddenly brought to a forest of pine (Pinus halepensis) which covers the entire southern slope to the exclusion of other species of trees. Spreading over the slope on the upper levels, it avoids the gulches near the base and reaches out on the crests of the ridges for a considerable distance. The width of forest where crossed is about 50 kilometers. In its habitat, which comprises the lower Atlas Mountains, Pinus halepensis forms a rather small tree, shapely, with rounded summit. When growing somewhat apart from its fellows it is of a more squat appearance than when in the forest, although the forest of the species is by no means a dense one.

THE FORESTS OF ALGERIA.

There are estimated to be between 5,000,000 and 8,000,000 acres of forested land in Algeria. Although the forests lie mainly in the Tell, certain species, notably Pinus halepensis, occur in the Saharan Atlas as well. Trees also grow along the oueds, especially on the High Plateau, but not in sufficient abundance to constitute forests proper. The leading species are, among the conifers, Cedrus atlantica and Pinus halepensis. The junipers are of importance mainly as a fuel, but do not form forests. Three oaks, namely, Quercus ballota, Q. suber, and Q. lusitanica, are forest-making species, but several other common forms, such as the olive, the plane, the ash, and the betoum (Pistacia), may share in the making of a mixed forest, but do not occur in sufficiently large numbers each to constitute a forest. In 1908 in the civil domain the acreage of the leading kinds of forest trees was as follows: oak, 1,853,520; pine (Pinus halepensis), 1,398,470; juniper (about one-half being Juniperus communis), 444,780; and Cedrus atlantica, 85,000.

The species of trees are distributed in well-defined zones, because of which they may to a large degree be segregated, or at least the specific composition of the forest, if a mixed one, may be determined. In altitudinal range, the oaks are found from sea-level to 6,000 feet, within which each species may have its characteristic range. For example, Quercus suber reaches from sea-level to 2,500 feet; Q. ballota from 2,500 to 4,000 feet; and Q. lusitanica from 3,500 to 6,000 feet. Pinus halepensis grows from the sea-level to 3,600 feet, and probably much higher in the Saharan Atlas, while Cedrus atlantica is to be found from 4,000 to 6,000 feet. Abies barborensis is said to attain a higher altitude than the cedar.

Among the definitive physical factors by which the composition of a forest is determined—the rainfall, the temperature, the soil, and the altitude—probably of the first rank should be considered the rainfall and the temperature, which are affected by the altitude. In the case of the distribution of the cork oak, however, the character of the soil plays an important rôle. This species grows only on sandy soil, and where the rainfall exceeds 600 mm. Because of the latter requirement the larger part of the cork-oak forested area is east of Algiers, the annual rainfall to the west of that place falling for the most part under 600 mm. Similarly the minor features of distribution, inside of the specific range, may be explained. For example, in the upper limits of its range, Pinus halepensis appears chiefly on southern slopes, as on Mount Gorno, while at the low altitudes it is to be found on the northern face; temperature reactions apparently—familiar phenomena in mountainous districts.

Because of the unison of response to common environmental factors, much of the forested area, especially at the higher altitudes, is composed of one species or one species largely predominates. This is true of the pine and the cedar forests to a marked degree; e.g., in the pine forests on Mount Gorno and the cedar near Batna.