One day, whilst lying here, after I had pretty well satiated my curiosity in the town, I strolled into the country, and came across a cemetery filled with hecatombs—a slab being placed at the head, another at the foot of the grave, and the space between filled with stones. Near this cemetery was a spot enclosed by a high, solid, stone wall, but I could not ascertain for what purpose it was designed. Pursuing my way, I found a number of trees covered with the names of ships that had visited Balli, with date and country attached: amongst them I noticed that of the Spanish ship before mentioned, and those of several whalers, with the quantity of oil they had aboard specified. I found some one had been here before me and carved our old barque’s name in large characters. Beyond this spot I discovered that a very populous country existed; but why we had not been told of it at the lower town, I cannot divine. The natives clustered around us in great numbers, and the women, after the first sight, were not afraid to approach us. In the centre of the town was a cockpit, where fowls, with steel gaffs, were plunging at each other, whilst their owners and backers were freely betting as to the result, so intensely bent on the contest, that they had neither eyes nor ears for us. Some of the men here were rather officious, and we scarcely knew what their intentions might be; probably it was only curiosity; but it induced us to beat as speedy a retreat as we could, without exciting notice.
These people are very temperate, and I did not see them indulge in any of their intoxicating liquors, which consist of two varieties; one, a scarlet-colored spirit, which they call “toddie,” is made from the fermented juice of the unripe cocoa-nut. At first taste it does not appear strong, but over-indulgence in it produces either stupefaction or a species of insanity, resembling no effect I have ever seen from any other spirit. In the first case the subject is reduced to perfect helplessness and insensibility, which does not leave him altogether for several days; if the latter effect is produced, all the symptoms of violent insanity appear, and the madman does not rest until he has had a quarrel. Hence it was called “fighting toddie;” and one who has once indulged in it shuns it afterwards, on the principle that a burned child dreads the fire.
The Anise is a colorless liquid, with a smoky, fiery taste, and has the same effect as other spirituous drinks. Neither of these liquors could be procured in the town when we first came ashore, whereupon some of us congratulated ourselves on the prospect of a temperate and sociable day; but part of our crew, determined to have a spree, by the offer of half a dozen whale’s teeth, induced a native to cross the country in quest of it. The hesitation of the people in furnishing it, evidently proceeded from a perfect knowledge of its effect upon seamen when ashore, and indulging in it ad libitum.
The rajah of the town and his clerk visited the ship one morning. The rajah’s dress and air were anything but kingly. He was a man of advanced age, and at home would have passed muster as a respectable looking mulatto; but he had little to say, not understanding our language—his clerk, Tonga, interpreting for our captain and he. The harbor duties were paid in powder, with the addition of an old musket, and the provisions in whale’s teeth.
The coast is considered unhealthy by the natives themselves; the rajah’s clerk expressing himself anxious to get away into the interior, saying that he was fearful of being sick. The utmost care was taken by us to prevent sickness. None of our crew were necessitated to drink the water—a cask of beer being continually on draught on the quarter-deck. No sleeping on deck was allowed, and no staying ashore at night. Even with all these precautions, our second and third mates were very ill—the latter severely so—and also one of the crew, with a debilitating fever peculiar to the climate. Several belonging to the James Allen also had reason to remember Balli for a long time after they left it—a distressing dysentery continuing to affect them for months. At Angiers, in Java, in nearly the same latitude as Balli, scarce an American whaler goes out, after a short stay, without leaving one or more of her crew to repose in death on its lovely shores: and we cannot but feel thankful for the protecting care of Providence, in guarding us from such a misfortune. This is the only objection to these East Indian ports, as I know of none where a crew of young men, if so disposed, can pass a few days more rationally and pleasantly, gleaning at the same time useful information. The climate appears to agree with the natives, as I saw numbers of the most attenuated human beings, who had attained a great age, so reduced that the student might, by procuring one of them, readily study anatomy from a living subject. I was at a loss for a long time to divine the occupation of these emaciated creatures, but soon found that they were mendicants. They never solicited alms, but seemed to make a good thing of it—the countrymen and women bestowing pice freely amongst them. Although so old and reduced, their vanity still remained, as was shown by their eagerness to purchase our gaudy calico.
These people profess the religion of Mahomet, and their creed seems to enjoin cleanliness upon them, as they are neat and cleanly to an almost painful degree—performing their ablutions frequently and thoroughly, like all others of the same faith. Pork is their abomination, as much as it is to the children of Judea.
Parrots and cockatoos exist here in great numbers, and may be seen in the lofty cocoa-nut trees. The cockatoo is a beautiful bird, about the size of our pigeon; it is perfectly white in its body plumage; on the head is a crest consisting of three or four feathers of a beautiful yellow, which it elevates at pleasure; it has a formidable beak, is easily tamed, and can be taught to articulate. Ashore I saw several domesticated, that jabbered Malay with great fluency, and traversed the house on a perfect equality with the cats and children. Monkeys also, may be seen in these groves; they are small, but active, mischievous, and intelligent. Cockatoos and monkeys had attracted the attention of more than one of us; and half a dozen of the former, and two of the latter, were transferred to our ship, where they soon made themselves at home. The birds lived for some time, but were finally lost overboard. The monkeys not agreeing well together, one was given away, and the other committed suicide by eating putty.
On the last liberty day Kedge Anchor, from our vessel, and no less than seven from the James Allen, deserted; but their departure was soon reported, and natives despatched in search of them on the same day. After a tiresome walk of ten miles, during which they represented themselves as having been treated by the natives with the utmost hospitality, they found themselves surrounded by a score of the rajah’s body guard, armed with drawn creeses; and, with some demurrage, the deserters, having no arms, were compelled to submit. No indignities were offered to them. Horses were provided for each, and thus mounted they were conducted back to the coast—their attendants easily keeping pace with them on foot. They arrived at night, and were comfortably provided with lodgings and an excellent supper, and next morning were delivered over to their respective captains, on the payment of a piece of blue cotton cloth, as a ransom for each. There was very little said to our shipmate, but aboard the Allen her deserters were handcuffed and put between decks; though after a short time they were liberated. This freak hastened our departure from the port, and on Sunday morning, at 3 o’clock, all hands were called to “Up anchor, ahoy!” With a merry song the windlass was manned, and soon the old barque was on her way out. We had several hundred chickens aboard, one hundred ducks, six cockatoos, two monkeys, and a Malay puppy. These creatures, all excited by the unusual position they found themselves in, were respectively venting their dissatisfaction in the most vociferous manner. The cackling of the chickens, quacking of the ducks, chattering of cockatoos and monkeys, the yelping of the puppy, and the merry “Yeo, heave, ho!” of the sailors, blended, formed a chaos of noises, indescribable and deafening. Our bananas were hung under the tops, over the stern, and on the stays and rigging—giving our floating home a lively appearance.
On the last day of our stay in port, the Englishman who had made himself so disagreeable to all hands, on expressing a wish to be left ashore, was discharged by our captain. He had seven or eight pounds sterling; the captain gave him several more, as also a piece of cotton stuff for which he could readily procure sale, and then provided him a guide across the country. A large, powerful man, belonging to Troy, New York, having effected his escape from the Allen, on the last day, eluding the natives sent in pursuit of him, was supposed to have accompanied him, and both took their way to Anfernande, a seaport some thirty miles distant.
In the evening of the day that we took our departure from this pleasant spot, we were favored with a strong breeze, and the crew became themselves again in the execution of their multifarious duties about the ship; lying in port always giving to Jack Tar a sluggish carriage; but the moment the sea breeze strikes the vessel, he livens up and feels himself called upon for exertion.