Cross-tree saddles.
The Hudson’s Bay Company and many traders and explorers in North West America make use of the so-called cross-tree saddle for transporting their peltries and stores. One of these is shown at C in our full-page [illustration] representing “[Horse Equipments.]” The girth for that description of saddle has two sets of holes made in it, so that the ends may be laced together by the use of a strip of hide, represented at D.
Tightening harness.
A good number of narrow flat battens of tough wood and bundles of twigs will be found very useful for placing between the load ropes and load, as in the case of bags containing soft substances, or articles likely to be crushed in, a groove is at once formed by the tension of the strained rope, and without some interposing medium no little mischief is done. When a rope is found loose from any cause, it can be tightened by thrusting a short curved stick into the loop formed by the slack part, when, by twisting the lever round and round, the required tension is soon gained. When packing a mule or adjusting a disarranged pack it is well to partially blindfold the animal. This is done by the Spaniards by the use of a contrivance called a “tapajo,” represented at E in the full-page illustration of “[Horse Equipments.]” The hind strap of this is placed behind the ears, just as the head strap of a halter would be. The leather part hangs before the mule’s eyes, whilst the fringe-like tails hang down at the sides. When not on a mule’s head, the tapajo is used instead of a whip by placing the forefinger through the ring in its middle.
Bell mules.
In travelling through a country tolerably free from large animals of prey or hostile Indians, it will not be requisite to hobble a large train of mules during the night, as they will not stray far from the hobbled bell mare. This animal leads the march by day and keeps the “mulada” together at night. A gelding not uncommonly takes the place of the mare as the bearer of the bell. White or grey animals should be selected to perform this duty. Never, on any account, allow a stud mule to accompany your band; he rarely thrives, is always ready for a fight, and is as bad as an enraged wild beast when fairly roused. It is not wise to work mules hard until after three years old—four, five, and six are better ages to buy at.
Hints to mule buyers.
Examining a strange or ill-tempered mule’s teeth with a view to ascertaining his age is at times rather a risky operation. To do this, put on a blind, get a halter put on the mule’s head; stand well in against the near fore-shoulder, pass the right hand gently up the neck, patting the animal as it goes until you are enabled to take a steady firm grip of the root of the ear with your right hand; then, with your left, seize quickly, but tightly, on the upper lip and nose. Do this quickly and resolutely, guarding against a blow from the fore-foot, and you will probably get a glance of the front teeth, or incisors, and see if the corner tooth is temporary or permanent.
Another piece of important information will be gained at the same time, and that is whether the dentition of the upper jaw is free from deformity. It sometimes happens that both mules and horses are what is called overhung or parrot-beaked, which simply means that the upper row of front teeth projects so far beyond the lower that the two rows can by no effort of the animal be brought in contact. This defect is often overlooked, but when present is a fruitful source of loss of condition and consequent weakness, as food, easily gathered by animals with naturally-formed rows of teeth, is all but lost to the unfortunate possessor of a parrot-mouth. See, too, that the tongue is perfect.
Mules for packing purposes should not be too large or high on their legs. Some of those which accompanied us from Andalusia to the East were 16 hands and over; whilst the great majority of the trains we worked in Central India were very little larger than common donkeys, and certainly less than a great many we have seen in Egypt.