Before removing the locks, see that they are neatly and compactly fitted into the wood of the stock; see also that the timber of the stock in the bed of the barrels immediately in front of the false breech is sound; some makers lay in plates of metal at this joint, which is an excellent plan. On removing the bolt and taking off the locks, see that all the cavities into which the projections and springs fit have been cleanly and evenly cut out with the tool. See also that the triggers work freely and have back springs to them. See that the interiors of the locks are well fitted together, and if you can find the name of “Joseph Brazier, Ashes,” engraved on the inside of the plate, you may discontinue your scrutiny so far as the lock department is concerned, as it is a guarantee for excellence of quality which we have always found beyond question. Have the breeches and nipples removed; see that both male and female screws are perfect; look carefully through the barrels, and see that the inner surfaces are clear, bright, and free from rust or honeycombing. Cast a general glance over the gun furniture to see that all is firm and sound. See that there are no shakes or cracks in the stock, and if there is no varnish on it so much the better. Whether the barrels are to be of Damascus or laminated steel, or twisted stubs, we must leave in great measure to the taste of the purchaser. Each kind has its advocates. We do not advise having guns without ramrods, as we have seen much inconvenience arise in wild countries from having the loading rod to carry and depend on. It is well to have one with a large powerful worm inside the driving top or end, but it should be regarded rather in the light of an auxiliary than an instrument to be depended on. Testing firearms. It will also be advisable, before concluding your purchase, to test the shooting powers of the weapon selected. If a smooth bore, experiment on it first for accuracy of shooting with shot, in order to ascertain if the barrels are accurately fitted together. This is very easily done by trying a few shots from both barrels, at two or three different ranges, at a small object such as a visiting card. By fastening this to the centre of the target, and shooting steadily at it, you will at once ascertain if both the barrels perform their work satisfactorily, and do not shoot to the right or left. With such a gun as we have recommended, 3drs. of powder and 1¼oz. of No. 5 or 6 shot will be found a fair average charge. Equal quantities by measure of powder and shot form a charge almost universal in its usefulness. The next test should be for pattern or regularity of distribution, at different distances, which may begin at twenty paces and extend to sixty, using the same charge. A large piece of sheet iron, painted over with a mixture of pipeclay or whitening and water, should, in the absence of one of Government pattern, be made use of. Form a round black space in the middle, and, as in the case of the former experiment, shoot steadily at it, at the different ranges indicated. It will then be seen whether the shot are equally and evenly distributed over a moderately large space of the metal. There are two modes of testing penetration usually had recourse to. The most common is to fire the gun, at different ranges, at a number of sheets of paper. Old books, with the covers removed, answer the purpose as well as anything. These, when firmly secured against the target, a door, or tree, are fired at with a fair average charge, in order to ascertain the number of leaves the shot has found its way through. To carry an experiment of this kind out satisfactorily, it will be well to test the intended purchase against some gun of known excellence, as no arbitrary rule can be laid down as to the number of sheets which should be penetrated, no two surfaces of paper being exactly alike in quality, substance, and mode of arrangement. Tin powder canisters are also used as a test of penetrating power. Some guns will riddle them from side to side, whilst others, with the same charge, and at the same distance, merely throw the shot through one thickness of the tin plate. Powder canisters are not always of the same substance; therefore, we recommend a competitive trial with them.
The accompanying table of results, which were some time since arrived at and communicated to the Field by an experienced correspondent, will serve to show what varied results follow the use of particular guns and canisters of more than ordinary strength.
“I was struck with the strength and sharpness of shooting of the 7½lb. 11-gauge gun at the trials, of which I sent you the report, and decided on trying the canisters again. The first was a very hard, strong canister of Curtis and Harvey’s, nearly square, being 4¾in. by 4½in. and 1¾in. nearly through. I fired eight barrels, two or three pellets of each barrel going clean through both sides, and such as did not go through both sides deeply indenting the second side. I tried another of Curtis and Harvey’s 6½in. by 3¼in. by 1⅜in., with like results—No. 5 shot 40 yards (by tape), and the canisters standing loose on the top of a post. I then tried my heavy gun, 9lb. 11-gauge, barrels 5½lb., 31in. long. I have drawn out a table of charges and results. The patterns with No. 5 were very good—first-rate many of them—and the strongest; with the 3½drs. and 1½oz. very great, the other charge would not do. With No. 4 the strength is very great, but I cannot rely on the pattern. I then put up a Curtis and Harvey tin canister (apparently like the last in size and substance), 6½in. by 3¼in. by 1⅜in., and let go my right barrel at 40 yards with No. 5; to my amazement, five pellets stuck in the first side, but none went through. I then examined it, and it was very clearly a tough and strong subject. My keeper tried the other barrel with the same results. He was, however, quite sure that my other gun would send No. 5 through both sides. I tried several shots the next day with the other gun at this same canister, but could not get through the first side; the shots stuck in, and so hard that a strong clasp knife would hardly extract them. I was astonished, I confess, for the shots which struck the stone gate-post were flattened as thin as the edge of a knife; and, standing about 5 yards wide of the mark, the strength seemed sufficient to go through anything. However, facts are facts; and the three canisters are now lying on the ground before me. I have since been experimenting with the light gun and No. 6; the day was not very favourable, being windy, but I did not like the patterns.
| Dr. | Oz. | No. | Yds. | Right Barrel. | Left Barrel. | Light Gun 7½lb., barrels 4¾lb. 30in. |
| 3 | 1¼ | No. 6 | 40 | 116 | 110 | Very good. Very good. |
| 110 | 107 | Very good. Very good. | ||||
| 112 | 93 | Good. Left went to the left. | ||||
| 60 | 46 | 41 | Tolerable. Left low. | |||
| No. 5 | ... | 42 | 31 | Good pattern, and very hard. | ||
| Targets 6ft. by 4½ft., with circle 30in. in diameter; shots on circle not counted. | ||||||
“I do not like No. 6; it comes up hard, too—very hard. I stood behind the target while my keeper shot at it, both at 40 yards and 60 yards, so I could judge well; but the patterns had not the killing regularity of No. 5; a part was thick as dust shot, and another like No. 5, but without its broad splashes, though the pellets were all as flat as wafers at 60 yards. I would have backed the bird for ever. I cannot help thinking that, in windy weather, very little execution could be done at 40 yards with No. 6. I have since tried other charges—3drs. 1⅛oz., 3drs. 13⁄10oz., both Nos. 5 and 6; also 3¼drs. 1⅜oz., but I do not find any charge beats 3drs. and 1¼oz.
| Dr. | Oz. | No. | Yds. | Right Barrel. | Left Barrel. | Heavy Gun. |
| 3¼ | 1⅜ | No. 5 | 40 | 65 | 66 | Right good. Left excellent. |
| 66 | 88 | Right two holes or spaced. Left first rate. | ||||
| 50 | 46 | 39 | Not good. Not good. | |||
| 31 | 40 | Moderate. Moderate. Want of strength, not the charge. | ||||
| 3½ | 1½ | No. 5 | 40 | 84 | 81 | Right very good. Left first-rate. |
| 80 | 81 | Right good. Left excellent. | ||||
| 83 | 84 | Right first-rate. Left first-rate. | ||||
| 50 | 42 | 50 | Right excellent. Left excellent. | |||
| 46 | 44 | Right not regular. Left very good. | ||||
| 46 | 44 | Right not regular. Left very good. | ||||
| 53 | 51 | Right first-rate. Left first-rate. Very regular, very hard, very close. | ||||
| 3½ | 1½ | No. 4 | 40 | 47 | 52 | Very good. |
| 50 | 27 | 19 | Not good at all. | |||
| Targets 2ft. square, iron, tape measurement; gun 9lb., without ramrod;barrels 5½lb. and 31in.” | ||||||
Rifle sights.
A rifle, before purchase, should also be carefully tested as to accuracy of shooting; this can be best done on some rifle range. For sporting purposes, accuracy of delivery and power of penetration at moderate distances are much more valuable qualities than length of range. Accuracy of shooting is best ascertained by firing steadily from increasing distances at an ordinary target centre, up to 200yds. A generally useful charge for spherical balls consists of the bullet-mouldful of the very best powder. Use a greased kid patch for the ball; see that it has no defects or faults in it; and never strike it with the driving end of the rod when it has once reached the surface of the powder in the barrel. Send the ball well home with a steady pressure from above, and then withdraw the rod. Should it be found that the balls are sent to the right of the object, in all probability it will be found on examination that either the hind sight is placed too far towards the right, or the fore sight too far in the opposite direction. So with rifles which shoot to the left. If the hind sight has been shifted in its slot, and driven too far to the left of the exact line, or the front sight in a direction towards the right, the balls will be found to assume an untrue flight; and the greater the distance they have to travel, the more marked will the error become. The handle of an old tooth brush, fashioned with a file into the form of an elongated wedge, will, with the aid of a mallet or hammer, serve to drift the slides into their proper position. This, when once found, should be noted by making a small but deep cut with the point of a penknife across both slide and barrel rib, so that if moved the two ends of the cut will not correspond. Gunmakers usually either cut a notch or punch in a piece of platinum, with the same view. Rifles will not unfrequently need re-sighting from accidents in wild countries, but this subject will be treated of at length hereafter. The penetration of rifle balls is best ascertained by firing them at a number of thin elm boards, placed one on the other like a pack of cards. The number of layers or boards penetrated is at once ascertained by taking off the planks one by one until the ball is reached.
Ammunition.
We are not unfrequently asked to advise as to the quantity of ammunition a single sportsman should take abroad in order to enjoy a fair amount of shooting. The duration of the proposed excursion, nature of game about to be followed, and the proclivities of the intending traveller, will all influence the bulk of the store he should provide himself with. Still, a hint or two may at any rate serve for a basis for him to regulate his purchases by. Supposing, then, that a No. 12 or 11 muzzle-loader, an 11 or 12 bore muzzle-loading rifle, and either a brace of double pistols or a revolver, are taken; 4lb. of best sporting powder, 2lb. of rifle ditto, 2000 best caps for guns, which should have nipples alike, and 250 pistol caps; two 28lb. bags of No. 6 shot, one bag No. 4, and one bag BB. Have sail-canvas bags made to go outside the ordinary shot bags, as these are sure to burst with rough travelling. Take six bags of ordinary mercurial gun wads, and six of extra thick felt ditto as powder wads. These can be split in two if you run short. Wads of this kind are invaluable, as they keep the gun clean, improve its power of shooting considerably, and are less liable to rise in the barrel than those of thin material. Get a stout elm box made; have it lined with sheet lead; have a division of stout plank made in the middle, so that the shot may rest at one end and the powder, wads, and caps at the other. Pack in every crevice with tow, as that will come handy for cleaning purposes, solder down your lead cover, and then screw on your elm box-lid. A stout pair of elm cleets or bars should be secured to both bottom and top of the box. They not only strengthen it, but prevent the planking from coming in contact with the earth or wet decks. They also serve to prevent ropes used in slinging or fastening the case in its various haulings up and lowerings down from slipping. Cleets of this kind are useful appendages to all wooden boxes used by travellers.