Next morning I arose early, continuing my voyage; passing by, on each hand, high forests and rich swamps, and frequently ruins of ancient French plantations; the Canes, and Cypress trees of an astonishing magnitude, as were the trees of other tribes, indicating an excellent soil. Came to at noon, and advancing forward from the river, and penetrating the awful shades, passed between the stately columns of the Magnolia grandiflora, and came to the ascents supporting the high forests and expansive plains above—What a sylvan scene is here! the pompous Magnolia, reigns sovereign of the forests; how sweet the aromatic Illicium groves! how gaily flutter the radiated wings of the Magnolia auriculata, each branch supporting an expanded umbrella, superbly crested with a silver plume, fragrant blossom, or crimson studded strobile and fruits! I recline on the verdant bank, and view the beauties of the groves. Æsculus pavia, Prunus nemoralis, floribus racemosis, foliis sempervirentibus, nitidis, Æsculus alba, Hydrangia quercifolia, Cassine, Magnolia pyramidata, foliis ovatis, oblongis, acuminatis, basi auriculatis, strobilo oblongo ovato, Myrica, Rhamnus frangula, Halesea, Bignonia, Azalea, Lonicera, Sideroxylon, with many more.
Returned to the river, re-embarked, and at evening came to, in sight of the confluence or junction of the two large arms of the great Mobile river i. e. the Tombigbe or Chicasaw with the Alabama or Coosau. About one hundred and fifty miles above this conflux at Ft. Thoulouse, the Alabama receives into it from the East the great Talapoose river, when the former takes the name of Coosau, which it bears to its source, which is in the So. West promontories of the Cherokee or Apalachian Mountains in the Chickasaw territories.
Observed very large alligators, basking on the shores, as well as swimming in the river and lagoons.
Next morning entered the Tombigbe, and ascended that fine river. Just within its capes, on the left hand is a large lagoon, or capacious bay of still water, containing many acres in surface, which at a distant view presents a very singular and diverting scene; a delusive green wavy plain of the Nymphæa nelumbo: the surface of the water is overspread with its round floating leaves, whilst these are shadowed by a forest of umbrageous leaves with gay flowers, waving to and fro on flexible stems, three or four feet high: these fine flowers are double as a rose, and when expanded are seven or eight inches in diameter, of a lively lemon yellow colour. The seed vessel when ripe, is a large truncated, dry porous capsule, its plane or disk regularly perforated, each cell containing an oval osseous gland or nut, of the size of a filbert; when these are fully grown, before they become quite hard, they are sweet and pleasant eating, and taste like chesnuts: I fed freely on them without any injury, but found them laxative. I have observed this aquatic plant, in my travels along the Eastern shores of this continent, in the large rivers and lakes, from New-Jersey to this place, particularly in a large pond or lake near Cape Fear river in North Carolina, which is about two miles over and twelve feet water, notwithstanding which its surface is almost covered with the leaves of this plant; it also abounds in Wakamaw lake near the same river, and in Savanna river at Augusta, and all over East Florida.
Proceeding up the river, came to at a very high steep bluff of red and particoloured tenacious clay, under a deep stratum of loose sandy mould: after ascending this steep bank of the river, I found myself in an old field, and penetrating the forests surrounding, observed them to be young growth, covering very extensive old plantations, which was evident from the ridges and hillocks which once raised their Corn (Zea), Batatas, &c. I suppose this to be the site of an ancient fortified post of the French, as there appear vestiges of a rampart and other traces of a fortress; perhaps fort Louis de la Mobile, but in all probability it will not remain long visible; the stream of the river making daily encroachments on it, by carrying away the land on which it stood.
Observed here amongst other vegetable productions, a new species, or at least a variety of Halesia diptera; these trees are of the size and figure of ordinary Mulberry trees, their stems short, and tops regular and spreading, and the leaves large and broad, in size and figure resembling those of our common wild Mulberry.
Opposite this bluff, on the other side of the river, is a district of swamp or low land, the richest I ever saw, or perhaps any where to be seen: as for the trees I shall forbear to describe them, because it would appear incredible; let it suffice to mention, that the Cypress, Ash, Platanus, Populus, Liquidambar, and others, are by far the tallest, straightest and every way the most enormous that I have seen or heard of. And as a proof of the extraordinary fertility of the soil, the reeds or canes (Arundo gigantea) grow here thirty or forty feet high, and as thick as a man’s arm, or three or four inches in diameter; I suppose one joint of some of them would contain above a quart of water; and these reeds serve very well for setting poles, or masts for barks and canoes. Continued yet ascending this fine river, passing by the most delightful and fertile situations: observed frequently, on bluffs of high land, deserted plantations, the houses always burnt down to the ground, and ancient Indian villages. But perceiving little variation in the natural vegetable productions, the current of the river pressing down with increased force and velocity, I turned about, descending the river, and next evening came to at a large well cultivated plantation, where lodged all night, and the evening following returned to Taensa.
Next day I felt symptoms of a fever, which in a few days laid me up and became dangerous. But a dose of Tart. Emet. broke its violence; and care and good attendance after a few days, in some degree restored my health, at least, so far as to enable me to rove about the neighbouring forests; and here being informed of a certain plant of extraordinary medical virtues, and in high estimation with the inhabitants, which grew in the hilly land about thirty miles higher up the river, I resolved to set out in search of it, the Major being so polite and obliging as to furnish me with horses to ride, and a Negro to pilot and take care of me.
Sat off in the morning, and in the course of the day’s journey crossed several creeks and brooks, one of which swam our horses. On passing by a swamp at the head of a bay or lagoon of the river, I observed a species of Cypress; it differs a little from the white Cedar of New-Jersey and Pennsylvania (Cupressus thyoides), the trunk is short and the limbs spread horizontally, the branches fuller of leaves, and the cones larger, and of a crimson or reddish purple colour when ripe.
After leaving the low grounds and ascending the hills, discovered the plant I went in search of, which I had before frequently observed in my descent from the Creek nation down towards Taensa. This plant appears to be a species of Collinsonia; it is diuretic and carminative, and esteemed a powerful febrifuge, an infusion of its tops is ordinarily drank at breakfast, and is of an exceeding pleasant taste and flavour: when in flower, which is the time the inhabitants gather it for preservation and use, it possesses a lively aromatic scent, partaking of lemon and aniseed. Lodged this night at a plantation near the river, and met with civility and good entertainment. The man and his three sons are famous hunters. I was assured, from good authority, that the old gentleman, for his own part, kills three hundred deer annually, besides bears, tygers, and wolves.