If we are to give credit to the account the Creeks give of themselves, this place is remarkable for being the first town or settlement, when they sat down (as they term it) or established themselves, after their emigration from the west, beyond the Missisippi, their original native country. On this long journey they suffered great and innumerable difficulties, encountering and vanquishing numerous and valiant tribes of Indians, who opposed and retarded their march. Having crossed the river, still pushing eastward, they were obliged to make a stand, and fortify themselves in this place, as their only remaining hope, being to the last degree persecuted and weakened by their surrounding foes. Having formed for themselves this retreat, and driven off the inhabitants by degrees, they recovered their spirits, and again faced their enemies, when they came off victorious in a memorable and decisive battle. They afterwards gradually subdued their surrounding enemies, strengthening themselves by taking into confederacy the vanquished tribes.
And they say, also, that about this period the English were establishing the colony of Carolina, and the Creeks, understanding that they were a powerful, warlike people, sent deputies to Charleston, their capital, offering them their friendship and alliance, which was accepted, and, in consequence thereof, a treaty took place between them, which has remained inviolable to this day. They never ceased war against the numerous and potent bands of Indians, who then surrounded and cramped the English plantations, as the Savannas, Ogeeches, Wapoos, Santees, Yamasees, Utinas, Icosans, Paticas, and others, until they had extirpated them. The Yamasees and their adherents sheltering themselves under the power and protection of the Spaniards of East Florida, they pursued them to the very gates of St. Augustine; and the Spaniards refusing to deliver them up, these faithful intrepid allies had the courage to declare war against them, and incessantly persecuted them, until they entirely broke up and ruined their settlements, driving them before them, till at length they were obliged to retire within the walls of St. Augustine and a few inferior fortified posts on the sea coast.
After a few days, I returned to Broughton Island. The Cherokees and their confederates being yet discontented, and on bad terms with the white people, it was unsafe to pursue my travels in the north western regions of Carolina. And recollecting many subjects of natural history, which I had observed in the south of the isthmus of Florida, when on a journey some years ago with my father, John Bartram, that were interesting, and not taken notice of by any traveller; and as it was then in the autumn and winter, having reason to think that very many curious subjects had escaped our researches; I now formed the resolution of travelling into East Florida; accordingly, I immediately wrote to Doctor Fothergill, in order that he might know where to direct to me.
[15] The air at this time being serene, and not a cloud to be seen, I saw this annual almost total autumnal eclipse in its highest degree of perfection.
PART II.
CHAPTER I.
We are, all of us, subject to crosses and disappointments, but more especially the traveller; and when they surprise us, we frequently become restless and impatient under them: but let us rely on Providence, and by studying and contemplating the works and power of the Creator, learn wisdom and understanding in the economy of nature, and be seriously attentive to the divine monitor within. Let us be obedient to the ruling powers in such things as regard human affairs, our duties to each other, and all creatures and concerns that are submitted to our care and controul.
In the month of March, 1774, I sat off from Savanna, for Florida, proceeding by land to the Alatamaha, where I diverted my time agreeably in short excursions, picking up curiosities, until the arrival of a small vessel at Frederica, from Savanna, which was destined to an Indian trading house high up St. John’s, in East Florida. Upon information of this vessel’s arrival, I immediately took boat and descended the Alatamaha, calling by the way of Broughton Island, where I was kindly received by Mr. James Bailey, Mr. Laurens’s agent. Leaving Broughton Island in the evening, I continued descending the south channel nine or ten miles, when, after crossing the sound, I arrived at Frederica, on the island of St. Simon, where I was well received and entertained by James Spalding, esq. This gentleman carrying on a very considerable trade, and having extensive connections with the Indian tribes of East Florida, furnished me with letters to his agents residing at his trading houses, ordering them to furnish me with horses, guides, and every other convenient assistance.
Before the vessel was ready to sail again for St. John’s, I had time to explore the island. In the cool of the morning early, I rode out of the town, directing my course to the south end of the island. After penetrating a thick grove of oaks, which almost surrounded the town on the land side, suddenly a very extensive and beautiful green savanna opened to view, in length nearly two miles, and in breadth near a mile, well stocked with horned cattle, horses, sheep, and deer. Following an old highway, now out of repair, across the Savanna, I ascended the sloping green bank, and entered a noble forest of lofty pines, and then a venerable grove of Live Oaks, under whose shady spreading boughs opened a spacious avenue, leading to the former seat of general Oglethorp, but now the property of capt. Raimond Demere. After leaving this town, I was led into a high pine forest; the trees were tall, and generally of the species called Broom-pine (P. palustris Linn.) the surface of the ground covered with grass, herbage, and some shrubbery: I continued through this forest nearly in a direct line towards the sea coast, five or six miles, when the land became uneven, with ridges of sand-hills, mixed with sea shells, and covered by almost impenetrable thickets, consisting of Live Oaks, Sweet-bay (L. Borbonia) Myrica, Ilex aquifolium, Rhamnus frangula, Cassine, Sideroxylon, Ptelea, Halesia, Callicarpa, Carpinus, entangled with Smilax, pseudo-china, and other species, Bignonia sempervirens, B. crucigera, Rhamnus volubilis, &c. This dark labyrinth is succeeded by a great extent of salt plains, beyond which the boundless ocean is seen. Betwixt the dark forest and the salt plains, I crossed a rivulet of fresh water, where I sat down a while to rest myself, under the shadow of sweet Bays and Oaks; the lively breezes were perfumed by the fragrant breath of the superb Crinum, called, by the inhabitants, White Lily. This admirable beauty of the sea-coast dwells in the humid shady groves, where the soil is made fertile and mellow by the admixture of sea shells. The delicate structure of its spadix, its green broad leaves, and the texture and whiteness of its flowers, at once charmed me. The Euphorbia picta, Salvia coccinea, and Ipomea erecta, were also seated in front of my resting place, as well as the Lycium salsum (perhaps L. Afrum Linn.) a very beautiful ever-green shrub, its cerulean flowers, and coral red berries, always on its branches, forming not the least of its beauties.
Time now admonishing me to rise and be going, I, with reluctance, broke away from this assembly of maritime beauties.