London, June 12th, 1834.
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
| [THE LOW COUNTRIES AND GERMANY.] | |
|---|---|
| [LETTER I.] | |
Passage to Ostend.—The Capuchin church.—Ghent.—Quietand Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.—Antwerp.—ThePlace de Meir.—Silence and solitude ofthe town, contrasted with the tumult and uproar of London. | 3 |
| [LETTER II.] | |
Visit to the cabinets of pictures in Antwerp.—MonsieurVan Lencren’s collection.—The Canon Knyff’s house andgallery of paintings.—The Canon himself.—His domesticfelicity.—Revisit the cathedral.—Grand service in honour ofSaint John the Baptist.—Mynheer Van den Bosch, the organist’sastonishing flashes of execution.—Evening servicein the cathedral.—Magical effect of the music of Jomelli.—Blightedavenues.—Slow travelling.—Enter the UnitedProvinces.—Level scenery.—Chinese prospects.—ReachMeerdyke.—Arrival at the Hague. | 14 |
| [LETTER III.] | |
The Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings.—Temptationof St. Anthony, by Breughel.—Exquisite pictures byBerghem and Wouvermans.—Mean garrets stored with inestimableproductions of the Indies.—Enamelled flasks oforiental essences.—Vision of the wardrobe of Hecuba.—Disenchantment.—Cabinetof natural history.—A day dream.—Adelicious morsel.—Dinner at Sir Joseph Yorke’s.—Twohonourable boobies.—The Great Wood.—Parterresof the Greffier Fagel.—Air poisoned by the sluggish canals.—Fishylocality of Dutch banquetting rooms.—Derivationof the inhabitants of Holland.—Origin and use of enormousgalligaskins.—Escape from damp alleys and lazy waters. | 24 |
| [LETTER IV.] | |
Leave the Hague.—Leyden.—Wood near Haerlem.—Waddlingfishermen.—Enter the town.—The great fair.—Riotand uproar.—Confusion of tongues.—Mine hostess. | 32 |
| [LETTER V.] | |
Amsterdam.—The road to Utrecht—Country-houses andgardens.—Neat enclosures.—Comfortable parties.—Ladiesand Lapdogs.—Arrival at Utrecht.—Moravian establishment—Thewoods.—Shops.—Celestial love.—MusicalSempstresses.—Return to Utrecht. | 35 |
| [LETTER VI.] | |
Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle.—Glimpse of a dingy grove.—Melancholysaunterers.—Dusseldorf Gallery.—Nocturnaldepredators.—Arrival at Cologne.—Shrine of the ThreeWise Sovereigns.—Peregrinations of their beatified bones.—Roadto Bonn.—Delights of Catholicism.—Azure mountains.—Visionarypalaces. | 39 |
| [LETTER VII.] | |
Borders of the Rhine.—Richly picturesque road from Bonnto Andernach.—Scheme for a floating village.—Coblentz.—Awinding valley.—The river Lahn.—Ems.—The planet.—Asupposed Apparition.—A little sequestered Paradise. | 47 |
| [LETTER VIII.] | |
Inveterate Idlers.—The planet Orloff and his satellites.—AStorm.—Scared women.—A dreary Forest.—Villageof Wiesbaden.—Manheim.—Ulm.—The Danube—unlimitedplains on its margin.—Augsburg.—Sketch of theTown.—Pomposities of the Town House. | 53 |
| [LETTER IX.] | |
Extensive woods of fir in Bavaria.—Grand Fair atMunich.—The Elector’s country palace.—Court Ladies.—Fountains.—Costume.—Gardenand tea-room.—Hoydeningfestivities there.—The Palace and Chapel.—Gorgeous richesof the latter.—St. Peter’s thumb.—The Elector’s collectionof pictures.—The Churches.—Hubbub and confusionof the Fair.—Wild tract of country.—Village of Wolfrathshausen.—Perpetualforests.—A Tempest.—A nightat a cottage. | 63 |
| [LETTER X.] | |
Mittenwald.—Mountain chapels.—Saint Anna’s youngand fair worshippers.—Road to Inspruck.—Maximilian’stomb.—Vast range of prospects.—A mountain torrent.—Schönberg. | 73 |
| [LETTER XI.] | |
Steinach.—Its torrent and gloomy strait.—Achievementsof Industry.—A sleepy Region.—Beautiful country roundBrixen. | 84 |
| [ITALY.] | |
| [LETTER I.] | |
Bolsano.—Indications of approaching Italy.—Fire-flies.—Appearanceof the Peasantry.—A forest Lake.—Arriveat Borgo di Volsugano.—Prospect of Hills in the VenetianState.—Gorgeous Flies.—Fortress of Covalo.—Leave thecountry of crags and precipices and enter the territoryof the Bassanese.—Groves of olives and vines.—Classic appearanceof Bassano.—Happy groups.—Pachierotti, thecelebrated singer.—Anecdote of him. | 89 |
| [LETTER II.] | |
Villa of Mosolente.—The route to Venice.—First viewof that city.—Striking prospect from the Leon Bianco.—Morningscene on the grand canal.—Church of SantaMaria della Salute.—Interesting group of stately buildings.—Conventof St. Giorgio Maggiore.—The Redentore—Islandof the Carthusians. | 97 |
| [LETTER III.] | |
Church of St. Mark.—The Piazza.—Magnificent festivalsformerly celebrated there.—Stately architecture of Sansovino.—TheCampanile.—The Loggetta.—The Ducal Palace.—ColossalStatues.—Giants’ Stairs.—Fit of enthusiasm.—Evening-scenein the great Square.—Venetianintrigue.—Confusion of languages.—Madame de Rosenberg.—Characterof the Venetians. | 111 |
| [LETTER IV.] | |
Excessive heat.—The Devil and Senegal.—A drearyshore.—Scene of the Doge’s nuptials with the sea.—Returnto the Place of St. Mark.—Swarm of Lawyers.—Receptaclesfor anonymous accusations.—The Council of Ten.—Terriblepunishments of its victims.—Statue of Neptune.—FatalWaters.—Bridge of Sighs.—The Fondamenti Nuovi.—Conservatoryof the Mendicanti.—An Oratorio.—Profoundattention of the Audience. | 123 |
| [LETTER V.] | |
M. de Villoison and his attendant Laplander.—Drawingsof ancient Venetian costume in one of the Gradanigo palaces.—Titian’smaster-piece in the church of San Giovannie Paolo.—The distant Euganean hills. | 132 |
| [LETTER VI.] | |
Isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo.—The once populouscity of Altina.—An excursion.—Effects of our musicon the inhabitants of the Islands.—Solitary fields infestedby serpents.—Remains of ancient sculpture.—Antique andfantastic ornaments of the Cathedral of Torcello.—San Lorenzo’schair.—Dine in a Convent.—The Nuns.—Oratorioof Sisera.—Remarks on the music.—Singing of the Marchetti.—Afemale orchestra. | 137 |
| [LETTER VII.] | |
Coast of Fusina.—The Brenta.—A Village of Palaces.—Fiesso.—Exquisitesinging of the Galuzzi.—MariettaCornaro.—Scenes of enchantment and fascination. | 145 |
| [LETTER VIII.] | |
Reveries.—Walls of Padua.—Confused Pile dedicated toSaint Anthony.—Devotion at his Shrine.—PenitentialWorshippers.—Magnificent Altar.—Sculpture of Sansovino.—ColossalChamber like Noah’s Ark. | 149 |
| [LETTER IX.] | |
Church of St. Justina.—Tombs of remote antiquity.—Ridiculousattitudes of rheumatic devotees.—Turini’s music.—Anotherexcursion to Fiesso.—Journey to the Euganeanhills.—Newly discovered ruins.—High Mass in the greatChurch of Saint Anthony.—A thunder-storm.—Palladio’sTheatre at Vicenza.—Verona.—An aërial chamber.—Strikingprospect from it.—The amphitheatre.—Its interior.—LeaveVerona.—Country between that town andMantua.—German soldiers.—Remains of the palace of theGonzagas.—Paintings of Julio Romano.—A ruined garden.—Subterraneanapartments. | 153 |
| [LETTER X.] | |
Cross the Po.—A woody country.—The Vintage.—Reggio.—Ridgeof the Apennines.—Romantic ideas connectedwith those mountains.—Arrive at Modena.—Road toBologna.—Magnificent Convent of Madonna del Monte.—Naturaland political commotions in Bologna.—Proceed towardsthe mountains.—Dreary prospects.—The sceneryimproves.—Herds of goats.—A run with them.—Returnto the carriage.—Wretched hamlet.—Miserable repast. | 166 |
| [LETTER XI.] | |
A sterile region.—Our descent into a milder landscape.—Distantview of Florence.—Moonlight effect.—Visit theGallery.—Relics of ancient credulity.—Paintings.—AMedusa’s head by Leonardo da Vinci.—Curious pictureby Polemberg.—The Venus de Medicis.—Exquisitelysculptured figure of Morpheus.—Vast Cathedral.—Gardenof Boboli.—Views from different parts of it.—Its resemblanceto an antique Roman garden. | 173 |
| [LETTER XII.] | |
Rambles among the hills.—Excursions with Pacchierotti.—Hecatches cold in the mountains.—The whole Republic isin commotion, and send a deputation to remonstrate withthe Singer on his imprudence.—The Conte Nobili.—Hillscenery.—Princely Castle and Gardens of the GarzoniFamily.—Colossal Statue of Fame.—Grove of Ilex.—Endlessbowers of Vines.—Delightful Wood of the MarcheseMansi.—Return to Lucca. | 186 |
| [LETTER XIII.] | |
Set out for Pisa.—The Duomo.—Interior of the Cathedral.—TheCampo Santo.—Solitude of the streets at midday.—Proceedto Leghorn.—Beauty of the road.—Tower ofthe Fanale. | 198 |
| [LETTER XIV.] | |
The Mole at Leghorn.—Coast scattered over with Watch-towers.—Branchesof rare coral unexpectedly acquired. | 200 |
| [LETTER XV.] | |
Florence again.—Palazzo Vecchio.—View on the Arno.—Sculpturesby Cellini and John of Bologna.—Contemptshown by the Austrians to the memory of the House ofMedici.—Evening visit to the Garden of Boboli.—TheOpera.—Miserable Singing.—A Neapolitan Duchess. | 203 |
| [LETTER XVI.] | |
Detained at Florence by reports of the Malaria at Rome.—Ascendone of the hills celebrated by Dante.—View fromits brow.—Chapel designed by Michael Angelo.—Birth ofa Princess.—The christening.—Another evening visit tothe woods of Boboli. | 209 |
| [LETTER XVII.] | |
Pilgrimage to Valombrosa.—Rocky Steeps.—Groves ofPine.—Vast Amphitheatre of Lawns and Meadows.—Receptionat the Convent.—Wild Glens where the HermitGualbertus had his Cell.—Conversation with the holyFathers.—Legendary Tales.—The consecrated Cleft.—TheRomitorio.—Extensive View of the Val d’Arno.—Returnto Florence. | 214 |
| [LETTER XVIII.] | |
Cathedral at Sienna.—A vaulted Chamber.—Leave Sienna.—Mountainsround Radicofani.—Hunting Palace of theGrand Dukes.—A grim fraternity of Cats.—Dreary Apartment. | 224 |
| [LETTER XIX.] | |
Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter thePapal territory.—Country near Aquapendente.—Shores ofthe Lake of Bolsena.—Forest of Oaks.—Ascend MonteFiascone.—Inhabited Caverns.—Viterbo.—Anticipationsof Rome. | 228 |
| [LETTER XX.] | |
Set out in the dark.—The Lago di Vico.—View of thespacious plains where the Romans reared their seat of empire.—Ancientsplendour.—Present silence and desolation.—Shepherdhuts.—Wretched policy of the Papal Government.—Distantview of Rome.—Sensations on entering the City.—ThePope returning from Vespers.—St. Peter’s Colonnade.—Interiorof the Church.—Reveries.—A visionaryscheme.—The Pantheon. | 230 |
| [LETTER XXI.] | |
Leave Rome for Naples.—Scenery in the vicinity of Rome.—Albano.—Malaria.—Veletri.—Classicalassociations.—TheCircean Promontory.—Terracina.—Ruined Palace.—MountainGroves.—Rock of Circe.—The Appian Way.—Arriveat Mola di Gaeta.—Beautiful prospect.—A Deluge.—EnterNaples by night, during a fearful Storm.—ClearMorning.—View from my window.—Courtly Mob at thePalace.—The Presence Chamber.—The King and his Courtiers.—Partyat the House of Sir W. H.—Grand Illuminationat the Theatre of St. Carlo.—Marchesi. | 240 |
| [LETTER XXII.] | |
View of the coast of Posilipo.—Virgil’s tomb.—Superstitionof the Neapolitans with respect to Virgil.—Aërialsituation.—A grand scene. | 253 |
| [LETTER XXIII.] | |
A ramble on the shore of Baii.—Local traditions.—Crossthe bay.—Fragments of a temple dedicated to Hercules.—Wondrousreservoir constructed for the fleet of Nero.—TheDead Lake.—Wild scene.—Beautiful meadow.—Uncouthrocks.—An unfathomable gulph.—Sadness inducedby the wild appearance of the place.—Conversationwith a recluse.—Her fearful narration.—Melancholyevening. | 258 |
| [LETTER XXIV.] | |
The Tyrol Mountains.—Intense cold.—Delight on beholdinghuman habitations. | 280 |
| [SECOND VISIT TO ITALY.] | |
| [LETTER I.] | |
First day of summer.—A dismal plain.—Gloomy entranceto Cologne.—Labyrinth of hideous edifices.—Hotel of DerHeilige Geist. | 285 |
| [LETTER II.] | |
Enter the Tyrol.—Picturesque scenery.—Village of Nasseriet.—Worldof boughs.—Forest huts.—Floral abundance. | 288 |
| [LETTER III.] | |
Rapidity of our drive along the causeways of the Brenta.—Shoreof Fusina.—A stormy sky.—Draw near to Venice.—Itsdeserted appearance.—Visit to Madame de R.—Cesarotti. | 290 |
| [LETTER IV.] | |
Excursion to Mirabello.—Beauty of the road thither.—Madamede R.’s wild-looking niece.—A comfortableMonk’s nest. | 294 |
| [LETTER V.] | |
Rome.—Strole to the Coliseo and the Palatine Mount.—Agrand Rinfresco.—The Egyptian Lionesses.—Illuminations. | 297 |
| [LETTER VI.] | |
The Negroni Garden.—Its solitary and antique appearance.—StatelyPorticos of the Lateran.—Dreary Scene. | 299 |
| [LETTER VII.] | |
Naples.—Portici.—The King’s Pagliaro and Garden.—Descriptionof that pleasant spot. | 302 |
| [GRANDE CHARTREUSE.] | |
| [LETTER I.] | |
Determination to visit the Grande Chartreuse.—Reach theVillage of Les Echelles.—Gloomy region.—The Torrent.—Entranceof the Desert.—Portal of the consecrated Enclosure.—DarkWoods and Caverns.—Crosses.—Inscriptions. | 307 |
| [LETTER II.] | |
Thick forest of beech-trees.—Fearful glimpses of the torrent.—Throneof Moses.—Lofty bridge.—Distant view ofthe Convent.—Profound calm.—Enter the convent gate.—Archedaisle.—Welcomed by the father Coadjutor.—TheSecretary and Procurator.—Conversation with them.—Awalk amongst the cloisters and galleries.—Pictures of differentConvents of the order.—Grand Hall adorned withhistorical paintings of St. Bruno’s life. | 314 |
| [LETTER III.] | |
Cloisters of extraordinary dimensions.—Cells of theMonks.—Severity of the order.—Death-like calm.—Thegreat Chapel.—Its interior.—Marvellous events relating toSt. Bruno.—Retire to my cell.—Strange writings of St.Bruno.—Sketch of his Life.—Appalling occurrence.—Visionof the Bishop of Grenoble.—First institution of the Carthusianorder.—Death of St. Bruno.—His translation. | 324 |
| [LETTER IV.] | |
Mystic discourse.—A mountain ramble.—A benevolentHermit.—Red light in the northern sky.—Lose my way inthe solitary hills.—Approach of night. | 335 |
| [LETTER V.] | |
Pastoral scenery of Valombré.—Ascent of the highestPeak in the Desert.—Grand amphitheatre of Mountains.—Farewellbenediction of the Fathers. | 342 |
| [SALEVE.] | |
| [LETTER I.] | |
Revisit the trees on the summit of Saleve.—Pas d’Echelle.—Moneti.—Bird’s-eyeprospects.—Alpine flowers.—Extensiveview from the summit of Saleve.—Youthful enthusiasm.—Sadrealities. | 357 |
| [LETTER II.] | |
Chalet under the Beech-trees.—A mountain Bridge.—Solemnityof the night.—The Comedie.—Relaxation ofGenevese Morality. | 366 |
THE LOW COUNTRIES
AND
GERMANY.
LETTER I.
Passage to Ostend.—The Capuchin church.—Ghent.—Quiet and Content, the presiding deities of Flanders.—Antwerp.—The Place de Meir.—Silence and solitude of the town, contrasted with the tumult and uproar of London.
Ostend, 21st June, 1780.
WE had a rough passage, and arrived at this imperial haven in a piteous condition. Notwithstanding its renown and importance, it is but a scurvy place—preposterous Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when cast upwards—swaggering Dutch skippers and mongrel smugglers are the principal objects they meet with below; and then the whole atmosphere is impregnated with the fumes of tobacco, burnt peat, and garlick. I should esteem myself in luck, were the nuisances of this seaport confined only to two senses; but, alas! the apartment above my head proves a squalling brattery, and the sounds which proceed from it are so loud and frequent, that a person might think himself in limbo, without any extravagance.
In hope of some relief, I went to the Capuchin church, a large solemn building, in search of silence and solitude; but here again was I disappointed. There happened to be an exposition of the holy wafer with ten thousand candles; and whilst half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles fugued and flourished away in the galleries, and as many paralytic monks gabbled before the altars, a whole posse of devotees, in long white hoods and flannels, were sweltering on either side.