ITALY;
WITH SKETCHES OF
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.
BY THE AUTHOR OF “VATHEK.”
THIRD EDITION.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to His Majesty.
1835.
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
| [PORTUGAL.] | |
|---|---|
| [LETTER I.] | |
Detained at Falmouth.—Navigation at a stop.—An eveningramble. | Page 5 |
| [LETTER II.] | |
Mines in the parish of Gwynnap.—Piety and gin.—Rapidprogress of Methodism.—Freaks of fortune.—Perniciousextravagance.—Minerals.—Mr. Beauchamp’s mansion.—Beautifullake.—The wind still contrary. | 8 |
| [LETTER III.] | |
A lovely morning.—Antiquated mansion.—Its lady.—Ancestraleffigies.—Collection of animals.—Serene evening.—Owls.—Expecteddreams. | 12 |
| [LETTER IV.] | |
A blustering night.—Tedium of the language of thecompass.—Another excursion to Trefusis. | 16 |
| [LETTER V.] | |
Regrets produced by contrasts. | 19 |
| [LETTER VI.] | |
Still no prospect of embarkation.—Pen-dennis Castle.—Luxuriantvegetation.—A serene day.—Anticipations ofthe voyage. | 21 |
| [LETTER VII.] | |
Portugal.—Excursion to Pagliavam.—The villa.—Dismallabyrinths in the Dutch style.—Roses.—Anglo-PortugueseMaster of the Horse.—Interior of the Palace.—Furniturein petticoats.—Force of education.—Royalty without power.—Returnfrom the Palace. | 23 |
| [LETTER VIII.] | |
Glare of the climate in Portugal.—Apish luxury.—BotanicGardens.—Açafatas.—Description of the Gardens andTerraces. | 29 |
| [LETTER IX.] | |
Consecration of the Bishop of Algarve.—Pathetic Music.—Valleyof Alcantara.—Enormous Aqueduct.—Visit to theMarialva Palace.—Its much revered Masters.—Collection ofrarities.—The Viceroy of Algarve.—Polyglottery.—Anight-scene.—Modinhas.—Extraordinary Procession.—Blessingsof Patriarchal Government. | 34 |
| [LETTER X.] | |
Festival of the Corpo de Deos.—Striking decoration of thestreets.—The Patriarchal Cathedral.—Coming forth of theSacrament in awful state.—Gorgeous procession.—Bewilderingconfusion of sounds. | 47 |
| [LETTER XI.] | |
Dinner at the country-house of Mr. S——.—His Brazilianwife.—Magnificent Repast.—A tragic damsel. | 51 |
| [LETTER XII.] | |
Pass the day at Belem.—Visit the neighbouring Monastery.—Habitationof King Emanuel.—A gold Custodium ofexquisite workmanship.—The Church.—Bonfires on theedge of the Tagus.—Fire-works.—Images of the HolyOne of Lisbon. | 55 |
| [LETTER XIII.] | |
The New Church of St. Anthony.—Sprightly Music.—EnthusiasticSermon.—The good Prior of Avia.—Visit tothe Carthusian Convent of Cachiez.—Spectres of the Order.—Strikingeffigy of the Saviour.—A young and melancholyCarthusian.—The Cemetery. | 59 |
| [LETTER XIV.] | |
Curious succession of visiters.—A Seraphic Doctor.—MonsenhorAguilar.—Mob of old hags, children, and ragamuffins.—Visitto the Theatre in the Rua d’os Condes.—TheArchbishop Confessor.—Brazilian Modinhas.—Bewitchingnature of that music.—Nocturnal processions.—Enthusiasmof the young Conde de Villanova.—No accounting forfancies. | 68 |
| [LETTER XV.] | |
Excessive sultriness of Lisbon.—Night-sounds of the city.—Publicgala in the garden of the Conde de Villa Nova.—Visitto the Anjeja Palace.—The heir of the family.—Marvellousnarrations of a young priest.—Convent ofSavoyard nuns.—Father Theodore’s chickens.—Sequesteredgroup of beauties.—Singing of the Scarlati. | 77 |
| [LETTER XVI.] | |
Ups-and-downs of Lisbon.—Negro Beldames.—Quinta ofMarvilla.—Moonlight view of Lisbon.—Illuminated windowsof the Palace.—The old Marquis of Penalva.—PadreDuarte, a famous Jesuit.—Conversation between him and aconceited Physician.—Their ludicrous blunders.—Toad-eaters.—Sonatas.—Portugueseminuets. | 88 |
| [LETTER XVII.] | |
Dog-howlings.—Visit to the Convent of San Josè di Ribamar.—Breakfastat the Marquis of Penalvas.—Magnificentand hospitable reception.—Whispering in the shade ofmysterious chambers.—The Bishop of Algarve.—Eveningscene in the garden of Marvilla. | 96 |
| [LETTER XVIII.] | |
Excursion to Cintra.—Villa of Ramalhaô.—The Garden.—Collares.—Paviliondesigned by Pillement.—A convulsivegallop.—Cold weather in July. | 104 |
| [LETTER XIX.] | |
Sympathy between Toads and Old Women.—Palace ofCintra.—Reservoir of Gold and Silver Fish.—Parterre onthe summit of a lofty terrace.—Place of confinement ofAlphonso the Sixth.—The Chapel.—Barbaric profusionof Gold.—Altar at which Don Sebastian knelt when hereceived a supernatural warning.—Rooms in preparationfor the Queen and the Infantas.—Return to Ramalhaô. | 110 |
| [LETTER XX.] | |
Grand gala at Court.—Festival in honour of the birthdayof Guildermeester.—Mad freaks of a Frenchman.—Unwelcomelights of Truth.—Invective against the English. | 117 |
| [LETTER XXI.] | |
The Queen of Portugal’s Chapel.—The Orchestra.—Rehearsalof a Council.—Proposal to visit Mafra. | 123 |
| [LETTER XXII.] | |
Road to Mafra.—Distant view of the Convent.—Its vastfronts.—General magnificence of the Edifice.—TheChurch.—The High Altar.—Eve of the Festival of St.Augustine.—The collateral Chapels.—The Sacristy.—TheAbbot of the Convent.—The Library.—View fromthe Convent-roof.—Chime of Bells.—House of the CapitanMor.—Dinner.—Vespers.—Awful sound of the Organs.—ThePalace.—Return to the Convent.—Inquisitive crowd.—TheGarden.—Matins.—A Procession.—The Hall deProfundis.—Solemn Repast.—Supper at the CapitanMor’s. | 127 |
| [LETTER XXIII.] | |
High mass.—Garden of the Viscount Ponte de Lima.—LeaveMafra.—An accident.—Return to Cintra.—My saloon.—Beautifulview from it. | 143 |
| [LETTER XXIV.] | |
A saloon in the highest style of oriental decoration.—Amusingstories of King John the Fifth and his recluses.—Cheerfulfuneral.—Refreshing ramble to the heights ofPenha Verde. | 147 |
| [LETTER XXV.] | |
Anecdotes of the Conde de San Lorenzo.—Visit to Mrs.Guildermeester.—Toads active, and toads passive.—Theold Consul and his tray of jewels. | 157 |
| [LETTER XXVI.] | |
Expected arrival at Cintra of the Queen and suite.—Duked’Alafoens.—Excursion to a rustic Fair.—Revels ofthe Peasantry.—Night-scene at the Marialva Villa. | 163 |
| [LETTER XXVII.] | |
Curious scene in the interior of the palace of Cintra.—Singularinvitation.—Dinner with the Archbishop Confessor.—Hilarityand shrewd remarks of that extraordinarypersonage. | 169 |
| [LETTER XXVIII.] | |
Explore the Cintra Mountains.—Convent of Nossa Senhorada Penha.—Moorish Ruins.—The Cork Convent.—TheRock of Lisbon.—Marine Scenery.—Susceptible imaginationof the Ancients exemplified. | 179 |
| [LETTER XXIX.] | |
Excursion to Penha Verde.—Resemblance of that Villato the edifices in Caspar Poussin’s landscapes.—The ancientpine-trees, said to have been planted by Don John deCastro.—The old forests displaced by gaudy terraces.—Influxof visitors.—A celebrated Prior’s erudition andstrange anachronisms.—The Beast in the Apocalypse.—Œcolampadius.—Bevyof Palace damsels.—Fête at theMarialva Villa.—The Queen and the Royal Family.—Afavourite dwarf Negress.—Dignified manner of theQueen.—Profound respect inspired by her presence.—Rigorousetiquette.—Grand display of Fireworks.—Theyoung Countess of Lumieres.—Affecting resemblance. | 189 |
| [LETTER XXX.] | |
Cathedral of Lisbon.—Trace of St. Anthony’s fingers.—TheHoly Crows.—Party formed to visit them.—A Portuguesepoet.—Comfortable establishment of the HolyCrows.—Singular tradition connected with them.—Illuminationsin honour of the Infanta’s accouchement.—Publicharangues.—Policarpio’s singing, and anecdotesof the haute noblesse. | 201 |
| [LETTER XXXI.] | |
Rambles in the Valley of Collates.—Elysian scenery.—Songof a young female peasant.—Rustic hospitality.—Interviewwith the Prince of Brazil in the plains of Cascais.—Conversationwith His Royal Highness.—Return toRamalhaô. | 212 |
| [LETTER XXXII.] | |
Convent of Boa Morte.—Emaciated priests.—Austerity ofthe Order.—Contrite personages.—A nouveau riche.—Hishouse.—Walk on the veranda of the palace at Belem.—Trainof attendants at dinner.—Portuguese gluttony.—Blackdose of legendary superstition.—Terrible denunciations.—Adreary evening. | 229 |
| [LETTER XXXIII.] | |
Rehearsal of Seguidillas.—Evening scene.—Crowds ofbeggars.—Royal charity misplaced.—Mendicant flattery.—Frightfulcountenances.—Performance at the Salitri theatre.—Countessof Pombeiro and her dwarf negresses.—Astrange ballet.—Return to the Palace.—Supper at the CamareiraMor’s.—Filial affection.—Last interview with theArchbishop.—Fatal tide of events.—Heart-felt regret onleaving Portugal. | 235 |
| [LETTER XXXIV.] | |
Dead mass at the church of Martyrs.—Awful music byPerez and Jomelli.—Marialva’s affecting address.—Mysorrow and anxiety. | 253 |
| ———— | |
| [SPAIN.] | |
| [LETTER I.] | |
Embark on the Tagus.—Aldea Gallega.—A poetical postmaster.—Thechurch.—Leave Aldea Gallega.—Scenery onthe road.—Palace built by John the Fifth.—Ruins at Montemor.—ReachArroyolos. | 259 |
| [LETTER II.] | |
A wild tract of forest-land.—Arrival at Estremoz.—A fair.—Anoutrageous sermon.—Boundless wastes of gum-cistus.—Elvas.—Ourreception there.—My visiters. | 268 |
| [LETTER III.] | |
Pass the rivulet which separates Spain and Portugal.—Amuleteer’s enthusiasm.—Badajoz.—The cathedral.—Journeyresumed.—A vast plain.—Village of Lubaon.—Witheredhags.—Names and characters of our mules.—Posada atMerida. | 275 |
| [LETTER IV.] | |
Arrival at Miaxada.—Monotonous singing.—Dismalcountry.—Truxillo.—A rainy morning.—Resume our journey.—Immensewood of cork-trees.—Almaraz.—Reception by theescrivano.—A terrific volume.—Village of Laval de Moral.—Rangeof lofty mountains.—Calzada. | 282 |
| [LETTER V.] | |
Sierra de los Gregos.—Mass.—Oropeza.—Talavera.—Drawlingtirannas.—Talavera de la Reyna.—Reception atSanta Olaya.—The lady of the house and her dogs anddancers. | 289 |
| [LETTER VI.] | |
Dismal plains.—Santa Cruz.—Val de Carneiro.—A mostdetermined musical amateur.—The Alcayde Mayor.—Approachto Madrid.—Aspect of the city.—The Calle d’Alcala.—ThePrado.—The Ave-Maria bell. | 296 |
| [LETTER VII.] | |
The Duchess of Berwick in all her nonchalance.—Herapartment described.—Her passion for music.—Her señorosde honor. | 301 |
| [LETTER VIII.] | |
The Chevalier de Roxas.—Excursion to the palace andgardens of the Buen Retiro.—The Turkish Ambassador andhis numerous train.—Farinelli’s apartments. | 305 |
| [LETTER IX.] | |
The Museum and Academy of Arts.—Scene on the Prado.—ThePortuguese Ambassador and his comforters.—TheTheatre.—A highly popular dancer.—Seguidillas in all theirglory. | 310 |
| [LETTER X.] | |
Visit to the Escurial.—Imposing site of that regal convent.—Receptionby the Mystagogue of the place.—Magnificenceof the choir.—Charles the Fifth’s organ.—Crucifixby Cellini.—Gorgeous ceiling painted by Lucca Giordano.—Extentand intricacy of the stupendous edifice. | 314 |
| [LETTER XI.] | |
Mysterious cabinets.—Relics of Martyrs.—A feather fromthe Archangel Gabriel’s wing.—Labyrinth of gloomy cloisters.—Sepulchralcave.—River of death.—The regal sarcophagi. | 323 |
| [LETTER XII.] | |
A concert and ball at Senhor Pacheco’s.—Curious assemblagein his long pompous gallery.—Deplorable ditty by aneastern dilettante.—A bolero in the most rapturous style.—Bocchariniin despair.—Solecisms in dancing. | 329 |
| [LETTER XIII.] | |
Palace of Madrid.—Masterly productions of the greatItalian, Spanish, and Flemish painters.—The King’s sleepingapartment.—Musical clocks.—Feathered favourites.—Pictureof the Madonna del Spasimo.—Interview with DonGabriel and the Infanta.—Her Royal Highness’s affectingrecollections of home.—Head-quarters of Masserano.—Exhibitionof national manners there. | 339 |
| [LETTER XIV.] | |
A German Visionary.—Remarkable conversation withhim.—History of a Ghost-seer. | 349 |
| [LETTER XV.] | |
Madame Bendicho.—Unsuccessful search on the Prado.—Kauffman,an infidel in the German style.—Mass in thechapel of the Virgin.—The Duchess of Alba’s villa.—Destructionby a young French artist of the paintings of Rubens.—Frenchambassador’s ball.—Heir-apparent of thehouse of Medina Celi. | 354 |
| [LETTER XVI.] | |
Visit from the Turkish Ambassador.—Stroll to the gardensof the Buen Retiro.—Troop of ostriches.—Madamed’Aranda.—State of Cortejo-ism.—Powers of drapery.—Madamed’Aranda’s toilet.—Assembly at the house of MadameBadaan.—Cortejos off duty.—Blaze of beauty.—Acurious group.—A dance. | 358 |
| [LETTER XVII.] | |
Valley of Aranjuez.—The island garden.—The palace.—Strangemedley of pictures.—Oratories of the King and theQueen.—Destruction of a grand apartment painted in frescoby Mengs.—Boundless freedom of conduct in the presentreign.—Decoration of the Duchess of Ossuna’s house.—Apathypervading the whole Iberian peninsula. | 365 |
| [LETTER XVIII.] | |
Explore the extremities of the Calle de la Reyna.—Destructiverage for improvement.—Loveliness of the valleyof Aranjuez.—Undisturbed happiness of the animals there.—Degenerationof the race of grandees.—A royal cook. | 376 |
PORTUGAL.
PREFACE
TO
PORTUGUESE LETTERS.
Portugal attracting much attention in her present convulsed and declining state, it might not perhaps be uninteresting to the public to cast back a glance by way of contrast to the happier times when she enjoyed, under the mild and beneficent reign of Donna Maria the First, a great share of courtly and commercial prosperity.