To ascertain whether a stone, that has been found, be really a diamond, the workmen have a mode of placing it upon a hard substance, and striking it with a hammer. If it either resists the blow or separate into leaves, it must be a diamond; but, in the latter case, the discovery is sometimes made at an immense expense, as, by thus diminishing the size, its value must also, of course, be greatly diminished.
Diamonds are generally exported from Madras in a rough state; and in small parcels neatly sewed in muslin, and sealed by the merchants who send them. These, we are informed by Mr. Milburne in his valuable work on oriental commerce, are, for the most part, sold in Europe by the invoice, as it is called; that is, without being opened: and he says that they are always found to contain the value for which they were sold in India.
Of all transparent substances, none for brilliancy can be compared with the diamond. Its hardness is such, that no steel instrument whatever can make any impression upon it. Notwithstanding this, at a temperature not so high as that which is required for the melting of silver, it gradually dissipates and burns. Diamonds have been shown to consist principally of carbon or charcoal in a pure and crystallized state.
The ancients, ignorant of the art of cutting diamonds, were contented to set them in a native state; and for this purpose they preferred such stones as had naturally a crystallized form. The four large diamonds which ornament the clasp of the Imperial mantle of Charlemagne, and which are still preserved in Paris, are uncut stones of this description. The extreme hardness of the diamond baffled all attempts to polish it in such manner as to exhibit its peculiar beauty, until the year 1456, when a young man of Bruges, whose name was Berquin, endeavoured to polish two diamonds by rubbing them against each other. Having succeeded in this, he next constructed a wheel, on which, by means of diamond powder, he was enabled to cut and polish these gems in a manner beyond his greatest expectation. Since this period the art of polishing them has been greatly improved both by the Dutch and British jewellers.
In the choosing and valuing of diamonds in a rough state, attention is paid to their colour, their being free from extraneous matter, and their shape. Those that are most perfect are crystalline, and resemble a drop of clear spring water, in the middle of which is to be perceived a strong light, that plays with great spirit on moving them about. When they have a yellowish or greenish tinge they are considered to be bad. Many diamonds have a kind of confused structure, which lapidaries compare to knots formed in wood. These are rejected, from the impossibility of polishing them properly.
Mr. Mawe remarks that diamonds, when rubbed together, have a peculiarly and scarcely to be described grating sound, which is one of their most remarkable characteristics. By this alone rough diamonds may be accurately and expeditiously distinguished from every other gem.
It is usual to cut diamonds into three principal forms, called brilliant ([Pl. II, Fig. 7]), rose ([Fig. 8]), and table diamonds ([Fig. 9]). Brilliants are, for the most part, cut from such of the stones as have naturally a crystallized shape, and rose diamonds from the flat varieties. The former are so called from their great lustre, in consequence of the facets on both sides being cut. These are always set upon a black ground, whilst rose diamonds, which are much thinner, are set upon a white foil speckled with black, for the purpose of adding to their lustre. Rose-cut diamonds are of course much less estimable than brilliants; so much so indeed, that of late many of them, brought from Holland, have been re-cut into brilliants, notwithstanding the additional expense, and the loss of size necessarily attendant on this operation. The table diamond is the least beautiful of any. This mode of cutting is only adopted for such stones, or rather fragments, as, with a considerable breadth, have only a very trifling depth. The diamond-cutters of England are considered to be the best in Europe, but their number is so small as to occasion many stones to be sent to Holland to be cut.
The value of diamonds is ascertained by their weight in carats; and this value increases, in a very high ratio, according to their magnitude. For instance, a diamond weighing one carat will be worth about 10l. whilst another of five carats will be worth 150l. and of ten carats 800l.[[2]] This rule, however, can only be taken for diamonds of twenty carats and under. The larger ones, in consequence of the scarcity of purchasers, are generally disposed of at prices greatly inferior to their estimated worth. The value of some diamonds that are peculiarly perfect exceeds the above ratio; whilst, for a stone that is cloudy, foul, or of bad colour, even three quarters of the estimated value will perhaps be deducted.
[2]. A Carat is equal to four jeweller’s grains, seven grains of which are equal to six grains troy. To ascertain the value of wrought diamonds the weight must be doubled, about half being supposed to be lost in the working. This sum must be multiplied into itself, and the product by two. Thus to find the value of a diamond of twenty carats 20 × 2 = 40 × 40 = 1600 × 2 = 3,200l.
No diamonds are so valuable as those that are perfectly transparent, and of snow-white colour. The green and yellow varieties are, however, much esteemed: the blue kinds were formerly more valued than at present; and the least valuable are those that have a grey or brownish tint. Black diamonds are much prized by collectors.