John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson, S. Markham, and some others, started ahead of the camp about noon, and went about two miles farther than this place to a lake with the boat and seine. They took over 200 very nice fish, and arrived with them about the time the camp was formed. The fish were distributed around the camp according to the number of persons in each wagon, generally two to a wagon, and the brethren enjoyed a good supper on fish. I went to the river and washed my feet which were very dusty and sore. I also washed my socks as well as I could in cold water without soap. After Brother Luke Johnson had got through distributing fish, I went and asked him to draw my tooth. He willingly agreed and getting his instruments, I sat down in a chair, he lanced the gum, then took his nippers and jerked it out. The whole operation did not take more than one minute. He only got half the original tooth, the balance being left in the jaw. After this my head and face pained me much more than before. I ate but little supper and then lay down, but could not sleep for pain till near morning. The evening was very calm and pleasant.
Wednesday, April 21
Arose at 5:00, my face easier, but swollen and my gums raw. Took breakfast on fish and coffee, but ate no bread, it being very dry and hard. I could not bear to put it in my mouth. At seven started on foot; the ox teams being gone ahead. Some appearances of rain, and a slight shower fell. Wind northeast and pretty cool. At ten minutes to nine an Indian rode up to the first wagon and appeared very friendly. Soon after six or eight others came running on foot. They came from the timber about a mile to the left. At 10:00 we arrived at a fork in the road, the one on the left leading to the new Pawnee village, and the one to the right leaving the village some distance to the south. A consultation was held by President Young with father Case relative to the roads crossing the river, etc., when it was concluded to take the right hand road. We proceeded accordingly and at 12:00 came in sight of the new Pawnee village, in an open spot on the south bank of the Loop Fork, between two bodies of timber. The village appeared to be about three quarters of a mile south of the road we were on. At 12:30 we were opposite the village, and could then see distinctly upwards of 100 lodges set pretty close together, and appeared to be ranged in several lines, and set in good order. We proceeded until we arrived at a long narrow lake by the side of the timber and near to the river. At 1:00 p.m. the encampment was formed on the bank of the lake and a guard instantly placed at the passes, as many of the Indians had followed us, although they had to wade the river, but it is very shoal. One of the Indians presented several certificates from persons who had previously traveled through their village, all certifying that the Grand Chief of the Pawnees was friendly disposed, and they had made him presents of a little powder, lead, salt, etc. Heber gave them a little tobacco, and a little salt. President Young gave to the chief, some powder, lead, salt and a number of the brethren gave a little flour each. The old chief, however, did not seem to think the presents sufficient, and said he did not like us to go west through their country, he was afraid we should kill their buffalo and drive them off. Brother Shumway told him we did not like buffalo, but this does not appear to give him much satisfaction. However, there was no appearance of hostility. In fact, all that came to camp seemed highly pleased to shake hands with our brethren and would run from one side to another so as not to miss one. A number of the squaws were on the opposite side of the lake with mattocks digging roots. Brother Shumway says there are about twelve thousand of the Pawnees in this neighborhood, and it is reported that there are five thousand warriors. We did not see many of them. Larpy is at their village trading, and it is uncertain whether he will endeavor to use an influence for us or against us. We have no fear, however, because their only object appears to be plunder, and it is the calculation to be well prepared by night and day. During the resting hour I spent the time writing in my journal. At 2:15 p.m. the ox teams started out again and the horse teams soon after. The weather had been calm and pleasant for a few hours, but about 2:00 or a little before, some heavy clouds began to gather, and thunder was heard at a distance. About 2:30 the rain began to descend heavily, accompanied by heavy peals of thunder and vivid lightning which continued till about 4:00. A strong north wind blew up, the rain and thunder ceased and the weather grew very cold. We traveled till 5:30 and the encampment was formed on the Loop Fork of the Platte river. After the encampment was formed and teams turned out, the brethren were all called together and some remarks made by President Young, advising them to have a strong guard round the camps tonight. He called for volunteers to stand guard and about 100 volunteered amongst whom were all the twelve except Dr. Richards. This guard was divided into two companies of fifty each, one company to stand the first half the night, and the remainder the last half. Those of the twelve who stood took the first watch till 1:00. Brigham and Heber both stood on guard. Out of the companies a party were stationed as a picket guard some distance from the camp, the balance stood near the camp. The night was very cold, with a strong wind from the northeast, and in the middle of the night, it rained considerable. Our course this morning was about west. This afternoon, northwest. We are now within three miles from the bluffs on the north. We have traveled today about twenty miles, the roads being good and very level. The grass here is short but looks good. The buffalo grass is very short and curly like the hair on a buffalo robe. The spring grass doesn't seem to be as early here as at the Elk Horn, and the last year's growth not being burnt off, will be rather a disadvantage to the spring companies. I have noticed all the way on this bottom from the Elk Horn, that the ground is full of wild onions which appear far richer and larger than any wild onions I ever saw. I have no idea that corn would grow here for the land is very dry and loose and sandy, and appears poor. The country is beautiful and pleasing to the eye of the traveler, although you can only see one kind of scenery for several days.
Thursday, April 22
Arose soon after 5:00 a.m., my face very painful again caused by the cold. There has been no trouble from the Indians and all is peace and safe. The cannon was prepared for action, and stood all night just outside the wagons. There was considerable joking this morning on account of two of the picket guard having their guns stolen and Colonel Markham having his hat stolen. The owners were found asleep while on guard and those who found them so, took their guns to be a warning to them, but it is difficult for men to keep awake night after night after traveling 20 miles in the day, taking care of teams, cooking, etc. At 7:30 the camp proceeded again. I went ahead on foot. About one quarter of a mile from where we camped is one of the prettiest beds of nettle I have seen for some time. Our road this morning lay beside pretty heavy timber, and about a westerly course. After traveling two miles, crossed Looking Glass creek, a small stream about a rod wide, but easily forded. I still went ahead on foot and at 9:45 sat down on an Indian grave, on top of a mound from whence is a splendid view of the surrounding country for many miles. From southeast to southwest you can see the course of the Loop Fork for a number of miles. Northwest a level prairie about four miles and then a range of timber. The bluffs on the north about seven miles distant, and on the east a level prairie for about twenty miles. At this place there is a range of what appears to be mounds about a quarter of a mile long, running from northeast to southwest. At 12:15 we arrived on the east bank of Beaver River, having traveled about ten miles. This stream is about twenty to twenty-five feet wide; swift, clear water and pleasant tasting. The banks are tolerably well lined with timber. Here we stopped to feed. Some of the brethren went to fix the fording place a little, the banks are steep on each side and the water a little over two feet deep. At 2:00 p.m. started again, the ox teams first. When passing the river a number of the brethren stood on the west bank with a long rope which was hooked to the wagon tongue and they assisted the teams up the bank. The wagon I rode in crossed at two minutes after 2:00, and in a little while all were safely over. We proceeded on till half past five, when we arrived at the Pawnee Missionary station which is about seven miles from Beaver River. The country this afternoon was more uneven, there being many steep ditches and rises. The grass appears longer and there is much rosing weed. The soil looks black and no doubt would yield a good crop of corn. This missionary station was deserted last fall, and Brother Miller's company being camped here, they carried the missionaries and their effects to Bellview on the Missouri river. This is a very beautiful place for a location. On the north and west it is surrounded by bluffs, on the south by the Loop Fork at about three quarters of a mile distance. On the east by descending prairie. The Plumb Creek runs through it, and but a few rods from the missionaries' house. Its banks are lined with a little timber. There is also a steep bank on each side, and between these banks in the valley which is a few rods wide, the Sioux have practiced coming down when they have made their attacks on the Pawnees. The ravine is certainly well calculated to shelter an enemy from observation when designing to make a sudden attack. There are a number of good log houses here, considerable land under improvement enclosed by rail fences, and a good quantity of hay and fodder, large lots of iron, old and new, several plows and a drag. All apparently left to rot. There are also two stoves, etc. The government station is a quarter of a mile below, or south where father Case lived as government farmer and received $300.00 a year for it, but when Major Harvey learned at the last payday, which was last November, that father Case had joined the "Mormons" he very politely dismissed him from the government service. The Sioux came down sometime ago and burned up the government station houses, blacksmith shop and everything, but the missionary station they did not touch. This place according to my account is 134 miles from Winter Quarters, and a lovely place to live. Before dark the President called the camp together, and told them they might use the fodder and hay for their teams, but forbade any man carrying anything away, even to the value of one cent. He said he had no fears of the Pawnees troubling us here, but we had better be prepared lest the Sioux should come down and try to steal horses. A guard was selected and a picket guard to watch the ravine to the north. The cannon was also prepared and Brother Tanner drilled his men to use it till dark. At 9:00 p.m. I retired to rest and slept well through the night. The variation of the compass is about 12 degrees at this place.
I again introduced the subject of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the distance we travel, describing the machinery and time it would take to make it, etc., several caught, the idea and feel confident of its success.
Friday, April 23
Arose this morning at 5:30, my face bad again through sleeping cold. The air chilly but a very pleasant morning. President Young, Heber and others are gone to the river to ascertain where we can best ford it. There is a ford a little distance from here, and another about four miles above, but the latter is in the neighborhood of another band of the Pawnees and they are desirous to avoid it if possible. They started out on horseback at a quarter to eight and the camp remained here till they returned. Some are working, some fixing wagons, etc. The day is now warm and very pleasant. I went to Plumb creek and washed my feet which are very sore. The brethren returned at a quarter to 12:00 and reported that we would have to go about four miles and there build a raft. Tarlton Lewis was appointed to superintend the building of the raft. President Young then stated in regard to the plows, iron, etc., which lies around here, for the government is owing father Case considerable for services, and he has the privilege of taking this for his pay. He will do it and if the brethren want the iron, etc., they can have by hauling it, one half, and father Case the other half, and he (Case) will write and inform them what he has done. I started on foot about 12:00 and viewed the ruins of buildings, etc., which the Sioux have burned. There is a large quantity of good bar iron, and a number of plows, which the brethren put into their wagons on the terms proposed by father Case. Two miles from Plumb creek, passed another creek not very good to ford, although it is narrow but sandy. Two miles farther arrived at the intended crossing place, but the prospect looks dull for rafting on account of sandbars and very rapid current. My feet were so sore and blistered I could not walk for some time after I got there. The sun is very hot and no wind. At 3:20 the wagons arrived and prepared to ford the river. Luke Johnson was the first who went over, leaving the boat on this side, and although he had no load, nor even a wagon box, it was with difficulty he got over. Orson Pratt started next with a part of his load. When he had got in about a rod, his horses began to sink some in the sand and they could not draw. A number of the brethren jumped in and lifted at the wheels, etc., till they got him to the bar in the middle. He then started for the other bar and about half way across his horses sank in the quicksand so badly that one of them fell down. A number of the men immediately went to his assistance and took them off the wagon and led them across to the sand bar. President Young went over in the boat and took the loading out of the carriage into the boat. The carriage was drawn to the sand bar by men with a long rope. The brethren then assisted Elder Woodruff's team over in the same way, also John Pack's and Wordsworth's. President Young then ordered that no more wagons should go over that way, but move up the river about a quarter of a mile and camp until morning. The camp was formed about 5:30 p.m. The river is not more than two feet deep, but there are a great many beds of quicksand which are dangerous to teams, and calculated to shake a wagon to pieces. They make a noise when crossing the quicksands as if they were going over a stone pavement.
The country here is indeed beautiful and appears rich, but there is very little timber. After crossing Plumb creek, there is plowed land for nearly two miles on the right but not fenced. It appears to have yielded a good crop of corn. The land on the left to the river is level and beautiful for a farm. We are now camped about a quarter of a mile from the old Pawnee village on a splendid table of land, level and pleasant as heart could desire. It is not much over three quarters of a mile wide and shielded on the north by beautiful rolling bluffs and on the south by the Loop Fork of the Platte. From this bank can be seen the timber on the banks of the main Platte, the bottom from here to it appears very level. There is something romantic in the scenery around here, and the prospect cannot well be exaggerated.
In the evening the captains of tens were called together and a vote taken to build two light rafts, Tarlton Lewis to superintend one and Thomas Woolsey the other. As many loads of property as can be carried over in the boat will be done, and the teams with empty wagons will ford it. It is said that by going over several times with teams the sand will pack down and be good crossing, several of those who have been across believe this from today's experience and they calculate to give it a fair trial tomorrow. Amongst the rest of those who waded the river to help the wagons over, Brother Kimball joined and assisted one team to the other side, and then returned in the boat with President Young.