At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or twelve feet wide.
After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us. After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely. Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure of perusing the contents.
At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters. We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons. Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire. Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this creek, Buffalo creek.
Wednesday, May 5
The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules, oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P. Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire, ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island, and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.
Thursday, May 6
This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However, some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc., and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke Johnson chased near the wagons.
A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo. Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd, a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon, some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten, they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who have not actually seen them.
Friday, May 7
This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left, the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m., Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and have suffered much.