Arose at 4:20 and at 5:15 a.m. we moved onward, keeping near the La Bonte. At 5:45 halted for breakfast beside the traders' camp, having come a mile and a quarter. I sent my letter to them by Aaron Farr, a number of the brethren also sending letters. While we halted I got the roadometer fixed again and also put up a guide board marked "To Fort John 60 miles." These traders or mountaineers said they had left a kind of ferry made of three buffalo skins hung in a tree on the Platte and wanted Brother Crow's company to have it. It was decided to send a company ahead to overreach the Missouri companies and get the ferry before they could arrive, and also build a raft for us to cross on, kill game, etc. The men say it is about seventy miles to where we cross the river. Nineteen wagons were sent ahead and about forty men to attend to this business. All of Brother Crow's company went, Aaron Farr, J. Redding, the cutter, etc., being five wagons from the 1st division and fourteen from the 2nd. They started about half an hour before we started. We proceeded at 7:45 and immediately after starting had to cross a very steep gulf, being difficult for teams to get up, though it was not long. Soon after this, four men passed us with pack horses and mules. They say they are from Pueblo and going to Green River; they told others they were from Santa Fe and going to San Francisco. We found the road very hilly and uneven and crooked as yesterday. At three and three quarters miles passed over a branch of the La Bonte, a stream about ten feet wide but not deep. The descent and ascent being very steep, most of the teams required assistance to get up. For half a mile before we crossed this stream and three and a half miles after, our road lay over a kind of red earth or sand about the color of red precipitate. Most of the rocks and bluffs are of the same red color, only a deeper red. It affected my eyes much from its brightness and strange appearance. About one and a quarter miles west of the creek President Young and Kimball saw a large toad which had horns on its head and a tail. It did not jump like a toad but crawled like a mouse. This was seen near a large pile of rock or rather a hill. At 12:40 we halted for noon having come ten miles since breakfast. There is little water here for the teams. The day fine and nice west breeze. The road is very crooked, hilly, and mostly rocky, many large cobble stones covering the bluffs, the land barren and little grass. The ground here is covered with large crickets which are so numerous, to walk without stepping on them is almost impossible.
At half past two o'clock we were on the move again. I put up another guide board a little east of the creek: "70 miles." We found the road much better this afternoon, not being so uneven, and tolerably straight excepting a bluff to climb a mile from the creek. At the foot of this bluff I saw a toad with a tail like a lizard, about three inches long. It had no horns but there was the appearance of horns just coming on each side of the head. It resembles a lizard in color, tail, and motion when running swiftly through the grass. Its hide appeared hard and on its sides appeared numerous little sharp pointed fins or pricks. In other respects it resembled any common toad. At a quarter past one we formed our encampment on the east banks of a stream about a rod wide, two feet deep and swift current. It is named the A La Pierre. We have traveled eight miles this afternoon and during the day 19¼. We have a good place for feed but the higher land is barren, abounding only in wild sage. There are still some high bluffs around but the country west appears much more level. The evening fine but cool. After traveling six and a quarter miles from noon halt, passed a small creek, and again three quarters of a mile farther passed the same creek. Sterling Driggs killed an antelope and a deer.
Thursday, June 10
The morning calm and very pleasant. There is wild mint growing on the bank of this stream in great plenty and abundance of wild sage on all the higher land. The mint smells natural, but the sage smells strong of turpentine and a little like camphor. Started at half past seven and found good roads. At four and a half miles passed over a small creek about three feet wide but not much water, being only a few inches deep. A mile farther passed another creek about five feet wide, clear water and plentiful. At 11:20 we halted on the east bank of a stream about thirty feet wide and tolerably deep with a rapid current, having come eight and three quarters miles. We have had several long, steep bluffs to ascend and descend and two places at the creeks where it was hard for the teams to get up without help. We saw one of the Missouri companies a few miles ahead of us. Edmund Elsworth killed an antelope. There is good feed here and plentiful. Our road has been crooked mostly winding northward. The creek on which we camped last night is named A La Pierre and about a mile from where the road crosses, it runs through a tunnel from ten to twenty rods under the high rocky bluffs. The tunnel is high enough for a man to stand upright in it, and when standing at the entrance one can see the light through on the other side. It seems as though this tunnel has been formed by some strange feat of nature. Several of the brethren went to see it. Lewis Barney and another brother each killed an antelope which were brought into camp during the halt and divided. The brethren carried the two last about five miles on their shoulders. We have learned today from one of the travelers that there is one man living and making a farm in the Bear River valley. At a quarter to 2:00 we continued our journey. Found the road somewhat more even and good traveling. I put a guide board this morning at 80 miles from Fort John, and this afternoon after traveling three and a quarter miles from noon halt I put up another mark at 90 miles. Just as I finished setting it, I looked forward and saw the Platte river again. After descending a half a mile we were on its banks, being 77 miles since we left it on Saturday last, after having wound around among the hills and bluffs all the way. When we arrived near the river the road was more level but sandy and harder on our teams. There are also some low places where the water stands, making it soft, but scarcely any feed for teams since we left the creek at noon. At a quarter to six we passed another stream about thirty feet wide and two feet deep, swift current and clear water. Name is Deer Creek. There is plenty of timber on its banks and abundance of good, rich grass for our teams. We formed our encampment on the west bank in a grove of large timber. About a mile back we passed a sick horse supposed to be left by some of the companies ahead. Brother Markham bled it in its mouth, but could not get it along and had to leave it. The distance we have traveled this afternoon was nine miles and during the day 17¾ miles, the last five miles being nearly a west course. Soon after we camped, Horace Whitney went to fishing in this stream. We were soon satisfied that there are plenty of fish in it. I got a line and went to fishing also and in a few minutes caught two which would weigh a half a pound each. We then went a piece below the ford and by fishing till a little after dark I caught twenty-four nice fish which would average over a half a pound each, and some of them would weigh over a pound each. The ones I caught were of a very bright color and very much resembled the herring, but much larger. Horace caught a cat fish and two suckers. A number of brethren also caught more and some less. There is abundance of fish in this stream and we might have caught enough for all the camp with the sein but it is ahead with those who are gone to build a raft. The Twelve and some others walked out together to the river about a quarter of a mile up the stream. Some of the brethren discovered a rich bed of stone coal where any quantity might easily be dug, and it is said to look good and is a fine quality. The land here on the bottom is rich and would doubtless yield good crops of grain and potatoes, etc. Lewis Barney killed an antelope this afternoon which was distributed as he saw fit, inasmuch as he was not appointed a hunter. The evening is very fine, calm and pleasant indeed.
Friday, June 11
Arose at four o'clock to try and get some more fish. Morning fine and warm, but caught only four. I procured a sample of the stone coal from G. A. Smith. It looks good. This place reminds me of England. The calm, still morning with the warbling of many birds, the rich grass, good streams, and plenty of timber, make it pleasant. At 7:35 we again continued our journey along the banks of the river which appears somewhat wider here than at Laramie. At two and a half miles we passed a deep hollow, the banks on both sides being very steep. At four and a quarter miles put up a guide board at 100 miles from Laramie, having traveled it in a week lacking two and a quarter hours. At 11:50 we halted for noon in a grove of timber where there is plenty of good feed for a large company. The land since morning has been generally level, but sandy and no grass. The road somewhat crooked. About a mile back we came around a bend to the south caused by a deep ravine. We had to travel more than a mile to make a quarter of a mile direct. William Empey, Edmund Elsworth, and Francis M. Pomeroy, each killed an antelope. Several of the brethren have taken an interest in the guide boards and wherever they see a piece of board sufficiently large, they pick it up and preserve it. By this means we have now got enough to last 200 miles. The distance we have traveled since morning is nine and a quarter miles, being 105 miles in the week including Sunday, or 100 miles in six days. About half an hour after we halted, Brother Joseph Hancock came in with the hind quarters of an antelope which he killed about three miles back. He could not carry the remainder and left it on the ground. At two o'clock we started again. After traveling one mile, we crossed a very crooked, muddy creek, about twelve feet wide and over a foot deep. The descent and ascent were both bad on account of a crook from one to the other. There is plenty of feed on its banks, but no wood. Five and three-quarters miles farther another muddy creek about three feet wide and bad to cross on account of the clay being very soft in its banks. The balance of the road good, but considerably crooked. At half past five o'clock we came to a halt on account of seeing a number of wagons about a half mile ahead which proved to be two of the Missouri companies camped on the banks of the river and preparing to cross here. It was also ascertained that there is no camping place beyond them unless we go some distance. It was decided to turn off to the river opposite where we are and camp for the night and the wagons proceeded accordingly. We went a half a mile from the road and at six o'clock formed our encampment near the river where there is plenty of timber, having come on the road this afternoon seven and three-quarters miles and during the day seventeen miles, exclusive of the distance we turned off to camp. The feed here is good and plentiful. The region on the banks of the river is pretty level, but a few miles to the south there are very high bluffs. Very little chance for feed except in places on the banks of the river and generally where there is timber. These Missourian companies inform us that the regular crossing place is twelve miles farther and that our brethren are gone on there and also the balance of the Missourian companies. These men have got a light flat boat with them and have already got one load over. They say they have killed three bears between here and the bluffs. They have also killed a buffalo. There have been signs of bears seen by our brethren a number of times, but no bears for a certainty. We have only seen one buffalo since we left Laramie until today, when several have been seen. One of the Missourians brought a snow ball from the hill on the south. He gave Rockwood a piece of it, and he brought it to camp. Elder Kimball and several others saw it which now convinces us snow is yet lying on these high bluffs. Henson Walker, Charles Barnum and Brother Owens have each killed an antelope this afternoon, making eight during the day.
Saturday, June 12
Morning very fine with nice east breeze. Brother Markham has learned this morning that Obadiah Jennings was the principal in killing Bowman in Missouri. Bowman was one of the guard who let Joseph and Hyrum and the others get away when prisoners in Missouri. The mob suspected him and rode him on a bar of iron till they killed him. At a quarter past eight o'clock we continued our journey. At one and a half miles crossed a deep gulch pretty difficult to descend but not bad to ascend. One and three-quarters miles farther, we crossed a small creek about two feet wide on a bridge which the brethren fixed, they having started ahead of the wagons for that purpose. One mile beyond the last mentioned creek we crossed another muddy stream about five feet wide, and one and a half feet deep. At a quarter to 12:00, we halted after crossing another large ravine, having traveled seven and three-quarters miles over a sandy, barren prairie. In some places it is soft, although the soil is much like clay in appearance. The road somewhat crooked, and the day fine and warm. During the halt, Brother Rockwood called upon the brethren to help fix another ravine immediately west of us. Many turned out and it was soon done. James Case and S. Markham went to the river opposite here to see if it could be forded. They waded their horses over and found the water about four feet six inches deep in the channel and the current very swift. Of course it could not be forded with loads in the wagons, but the loading would have to be ferried in the boat. They made a report of this kind on their return to camp and about the same time Brother Chesley came down from the brethren ahead and reported their progress and the nature of the crossing place, etc. A number of the brethren in company with Elder Kimball and Chesley went to the river opposite the camp to decide whether to cross here or go on. Brother Markham and Case again went over, but it was finally concluded to go up to the other ferry. We accordingly started at half past two. I went ahead on foot. At three and a quarter miles, crossed a creek about five feet wide. At half past four the encampment was formed on the banks of the river, having come four miles, and during the day eleven and a quarter. It is about a half a mile from our camp to the place where they ferry. I arrived at the brethren's camp at four o'clock and learned that they arrived here yesterday about noon. Two of the Missourian companies arrived about the same time. The brethren concluded that a raft would be of no use on account of the swiftness of the current. The Missourian company offered to pay them well if they would carry their company over in the boat and a contract was made to do so for $1.50 per load, the brethren to receive their pay in flour at $2.50 per hundred. They commenced soon after and this evening finished their work, and received the pay mostly in flour, a little meal and some bacon. They have made $34.00 with the cutter all in provisions which is a great blessing to the camp inasmuch as a number of the brethren have had no bread stuff for some days. During the afternoon yesterday, one of the men of the Missourian company undertook to swim across the river with his clothes on. When he reached the current he became frightened and began to moan. Some of our men went to him with the cutter and arrived in time to save his life. The Missourian company seem to feel well toward us and express their joy at having got across the river so soon. Rodney Badger exchanged wagons with one of them and got a wagon as good as his own, only the tire wants setting. He got a horse, 100 lbs. flour, 25 lbs. of bacon and some crackers to boot. The provisions and horse are considered to be worth as much as his wagon. Since the brethren arrived here they have killed three buffalo, a grizzly bear and three cubs, and two antelope. The buffalo are very fat and the meat is good and sweet. According to the idea of some French travelers camped here, the buffalo are making down east behind the hills opposite here, which they say is a certain sign that the Indians are on Sweet Water hunting them. The brethren say that the buffalo are very plentiful back of these hills. When I returned to camp I learned that Tunis Rappleyee and Artemas Johnson were missing, the former having started for the hills to get a little snow; the latter having been hunting all day. A company were sent out with the bugle to find them. Brother Rappleyee returned about eleven o'clock. Johnson was found by the brethren who returned still later. All agreeing with the report that the hills are eight or ten miles distance, although they do not appear more than one mile. There were four antelope killed by the brethren but divided according to the feelings of those who killed them.
Sunday, June 13
The morning fine and pleasant. At nine o'clock the brethren assembled in the circle for prayer and after they had spent some time, Elder Kimball arose and addressed them exhorting them to be watchful and humble, to remember their covenants and above all things avoid everything that will lead to division, etc. He made use of the similitude of the potter and the clay to show that every man had the privilege of being exalted to honor and glory if he did not mar in the hands of the potter, but would continue passive, etc. His remarks were very touching and appropriate to our circumstances. President Young followed next on the "Liberty of the Gospel" showing that it guarantees all fullness of liberty to every man which fact will tend to his salvation and increase, but does not give us liberty to break the laws of God, to wander off to the mountains and get lost, nor to kill the works of God's hands to waste it, etc. He was followed by Elder Pratt on the subject of our avoiding all excesses of folly of every description, inasmuch as it disqualifies from the society of just men and angels. He exhorted the brethren to be watchful and to seek after wisdom and knowledge. The meeting was dismissed at half past twelve and a company were then dispatched to get poles to lash the wagons together to prevent their rolling over when crossing. Another company were sent over the river to build a raft to cross over provisions, etc. The brethren are gone to work and are diligently preparing to cross the river tomorrow. The day has been very hot, more like a summer day than any we have yet had on the journey. The ground seems to be alive with the large crickets, and it is said that the bears feed on them and pick them up very fast. A person who has never seen them could form no idea of the vast numbers of crickets in this region. I spent the day writing in Elder Kimball's journal. Phineas Young came in from the mountain, having killed a deer.