Thursday, June 24
Morning fine but cool. It was calculated to make an early start so as to pass the two companies of the Missourians and get the best chance for feed at night, but they started out a half an hour before we were ready. We proceeded onward at 6:15 and a little over a mile from where we camped, found the river again bending northwest while the road continues near a west course and soon rises a high bluff. On the top of this, we appear to have a level road for many miles. After traveling five miles from morning, we arrived at a level strip of land on the north side of the road where there is plenty of grass and apparently swampy and soft. It extends in the same direction with the road a mile and a half and appears to terminate where the road crosses the lower land although the grass and hollow continue southward for some distance. Just above where the road crosses at the west end there is some water standing around a small, circular, swampy spot of land probably about a half an acre. Near the edge at the northwest corner is a hole dug which is called the Ice Spring. The water in the hole smells strong of sulphur or alkali and is not pleasant tasting, but under the water which is over a foot deep there is as clear ice as I ever saw and good tasting. Some of the brethren had broken some pieces off which floated and I ate some of it which tasted sweet and pleasant. The ice is said to be four inches thick. The water is very cold although the weather is warm. A quarter of a mile farther than the spring, there is a small lake or spring of alkali on the left of the road and a little farther, still another lake. The latter is more pleasant tasting than the other, not being so strong of sulphur. It tastes very much like lye water mixed with salt. The ground around these lakes is white with alkali or saleratus and a number of the brethren picked up their pails full but we have learned that it ought to be used with care, it being so much stronger than common saleratus, if the same quantity is used it makes the bread quite green. After traveling from the ice spring ten and a quarter miles over a very uneven road, we descended a very steep bluff close in the rear of one of the Missourian companies. The other had halted a few miles ahead and we passed by them. While winding around and descending from this bluff we came in sight of the river again and about the same time. Elder Kimball picked up an Indian arrow point made of flint stone and nearly perfect. It was almost as white as alabaster. At 3:30 we tarried a little south from the road and formed our encampment in a line so as to enclose a bend in the river, having traveled seventeen and three quarters miles without halting on account of there being no water fit for cattle to drink. The feed here is very good and plenty of willow bushes for fuel. The river is about three rods wide and clearer and very cool. The last five or six miles of the road were not so sandy but hard and good traveling. One of the Missourian companies have gone on, but the other camped a piece down the river at the fording place. A while before dark when the brethren were fetching up their teams, John Holman, while bringing up President Young's best horse, having his loaded rifle in his hand, the horse undertook to run back past him and to prevent his running back, he jammed his gun at him. The cock caught in his clothes, the gun went off lodging the ball in the animal's body. It entered a little forward of the nigh hind leg on the under side of his belly making quite a large hole. The horse walked to camp but it is the opinion of many he cannot survive long. He appears to be in great pain, the sweat falling from his forehead in large drops. President Young is evidently filled with deep sorrow on account of this accident but attaches no blame to John who seems grieved very much. The brethren generally feel sorrowful, this being the second horse shot by accident on this mission.
Friday, June 25
President Young's horse is dead. The morning is fine but very cool. At twenty minutes to seven o'clock, we pursued our journey fording the river a quarter of a mile below where AVC left the road last night. We found it still nearly three feet deep and the current very swift. After proceeding a half a mile beyond the ford, we crossed a stream about a rod wide which appears to come from the northeast and empties into the river a little farther up. Half a mile beyond this stream, we turned from the river to the northwest and began to ascend a very high bluff which we found pretty steep and over a mile and a half to the top. The road then gradually bends around towards the river and begins to descend over hill and hollow and at four and a quarter miles from where we camped, strikes the river again and continues a quarter of a mile on its banks. Here would be a pretty good place to camp, there being sufficient grass for a large company. After traveling a quarter of a mile near the river we encountered another high sandy ridge, the road again winding to the north to cross it. The descent on the west side is very steep and unpleasant. We strike the river again after traveling one and a quarter miles from where we last left it, but it is the opinion of many that by fording the river twice at the foot of the ridge we could save a mile and they think it can be forded. Colonel Rockwood has paid particular attention to the place and reports that one hour's labor for 100 men would dig down the foot of the ridge so as to make it good passing and save rising the ridge and a mile's travel without fording the river. After leaving the west foot of this ridge, we crossed a stream about twenty-five feet wide and again a quarter of a mile farther the same, only about six feet wide. On examining it, we found it to be a branch of the river running around a piece of land about a quarter of a mile across and forming a semi-circular island. The last crossing was soft on both banks. The high sandy bluffs on each side the river seem to approach much nearer to each other and leave only a small strip of low land on each bank. At 11:20 passed a creek two feet wide and halted for noon having traveled eight and three quarters miles, the wind blowing very strong from the northwest and making it cold and unpleasant traveling and filling the wagons with dust. The latitude at this halt by Elder Pratt's observation is 42° 28' 36". At 1:20 we proceeded again, our road running on the river banks two miles then turning to the northwest and ascending a succession of hills one after another for three miles farther, winding around and over hill and valley in some places over a good hard road, and in other places over rocks and broken fragments of rock, making it severe on wagons and requiring great care in teamsters. About a half mile north of the road at the top of this ridge there is a heavy bank of snow which some of the brethren went to visit and amused themselves by snowballing each other. Brother Carrington says there is every appearance of a rich lead mine in the same place, he having examined the place minutely. The brethren brought some snow to the wagons and we ate some of it which tasted refreshing in the heat of the day. After arriving on the top of these ridges we began to descend gradually over rolling land, but the descent is not nearly equal to the ascent. At the distance of seven and a quarter miles from noon halt, we crossed a narrow wet swamp quite difficult for teams to get the loads over without help and one and a quarter miles beyond the swamp a creek a foot wide and a quarter of a mile farther still another one two feet wide. These all unite in one about 200 yards to the left below the middle creek and then appear to pass under a snow bank which at present forms a kind of bridge over the creek. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the north banks of a creek about five feet wide, having traveled this afternoon eleven and a half miles and during the day twenty and a quarter. This creek is very clear and cold. Its banks are well lined with willows and about a mile below the camp there is a grove of white poplar in which house logs may be obtained sixteen feet long and a foot through. There are several banks of snow a little to the north and some of the brethren have found ice four or five inches thick and brought a quantity of it to camp. On the banks of the creek there are some groves of gooseberry bushes with small green berries on them. There are also some strawberry roots and flowers and a little white clover has been found, but there is yet no appearance of the great abundance of such things as travelers have represented. The land appears somewhat more likely to yield the nearer we approach to the mountains, but all calculations for farming in this region would be likely to fail on account of the scarcity of timber. It would only be natural to suppose that the nights are very cold here, while so much snow lies around. It requires considerable clothing to keep comfortable, but in the middle of the day it is equally hot. Some of the brethren have traveled up the banks of the Sweet Water river and represent it as tumbling and foaming over rocks and descending very rapidly on account of the great rise of the ground from noon halt to this place. They say it runs within a mile and a half south of this but it is probable it is only a branch of it as we are evidently not near the main branch yet. There is one of the gentile companies camped about a mile below, making the third company we have passed lately and it is the intention to keep ahead of them and have the advantage of the good feed and camping grounds.
Saturday, June 26
Morning very cold and considerable ice froze in the water pails during the night. At 7:40 we crossed the creek and pursued our journey. At one mile we passed a small creek which rises from springs a little south of the road where there is a small grove of small timber. Elder Pratt has gone ahead with the barometer to try to find the culminating point or highest dividing ridge of the South Pass as we are evidently at the east foot of the pass. Fremont represents that he did not discover the highest point on account of the ascent being so gradual that they were beyond it before they were aware of it, although in company with a man who has traveled it back and forth for seventeen years. At two and three-quarters miles beyond the last small creek, we crossed the branch of the Sweet Water about two rods wide and two feet deep, the water clear and cold. This would be a good camp ground were it not so cold, as it must be from the fact that large deep banks of snow are now lying on its banks both above and below the road. Where the snow doesn't lie, there is good grass and plenty of willow groves for fuel. Two and a quarter miles beyond this branch we crossed another stream about eight feet wide on an average, though where the ford is, it is nearly three rods wide and two feet deep. This water is also very clear and the banks well lined with willows and grass. It is considered a superior camping ground to the one back. There seem to be a great many antelope at the foot of the mountains which is about all the game to be seen. After crossing the last stream, we climb another high range of hills over a good road, gently rolling. From the top of this is a pleasant view of the surrounding country but all entirely destitute of timber except on and at the base of the mountains many miles distance from the road. We have also a good view of Table Rock to the southwest as well as the high, broken, white capped chain of the Wind River mountains on the north. At 12:40 we halted on the main branch of the Sweet Water having traveled eleven miles. The river here is about three rods wide, three feet deep and current very swift. The water is clear and cold as the snow which lies on its banks in places six or eight feet deep. This is a lovely place for a camp ground, there being abundance of good, rich grass about eight inches high and plenty of willows for fuel. Some of the boys and girls amused themselves by snowballing each other on one of the large snow banks a few rods below the camp. Soon after we halted Eric Glines came up, having left the brethren at the upper ferry on the Platte River on Wednesday morning. He camped one night alone, the other nights he camped with Missourians. He does not assign any reason why he followed us, but evidently considering to repent and obey council than to continue obstinate and rebellious. The weather is now warm and pleasant and but little wind. At 2:20 we moved onward, ascending again on pretty high land where we found good traveling. The latitude at our noon halt was 42° 22' 42". After traveling seven miles this afternoon we arrived on a level spot of lower land and some grass, and inasmuch as we have found no stream as laid down on Fremont's map since leaving the Sweet Water, neither is there much appearance of any for some miles farther, the wagons halted while President Young and some others went over the ridge to the north to look for a camp ground as some of the brethren said the Sweet Water was close by. President Young soon sent a message for the camp to proceed, leaving the road and taking a northwest course. At 6:45 we formed our encampment on the banks of the Sweet Water, at the distance of a little over a quarter of a mile from the road, having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during the day eighteen and a quarter. This is a good place to camp, there being plenty of grass and willows. There are many small pebbles of hard flint rock on the flat land a little back and some almost as clear as glass. Elders Kimball, Pratt and some others are some miles ahead and not having returned at dark, a number of the brethren were sent to meet them. They soon returned in company with Elder Kimball who reported that he had been on as much as six miles to where the head waters of the Atlantic divide from those of the Pacific--that Elder Pratt was camped there with a small party of men direct from Oregon and bound for the U. S. It is now a certainty that we are yet two miles short of the dividing ridge of the South Pass by the road. This ridge divides the headwaters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific and although not the highest land we have traveled over, it may with propriety be said to be the summit of the South Pass. The Wind River mountains appear very high from this place but on the south there is very little appearance of mountains, Table Rock itself appearing but a little elevated.
Sunday, June 27
Morning fine but cold. The ox teams started at five minutes to eight and the remainder shortly after. We soon met eight of the Oregon men on their way back having over twenty horses and mules with them mostly laden with packs of robes, skins, etc. Several of the brethren sent letters back by them. At two and three-quarters miles, arrived at the dividing ridge where Elder Pratt took a barometrical observation and found the altitude 7,085 feet above the level of the sea. This spot is 278½ miles from Fort John and is supposed to divide the Oregon and Indian Territory by a line running north and south. At two miles farther we arrived at where Elder Pratt camped last night on the head waters of the Green River and although the stream is small, we have the satisfaction of seeing the current run west instead of east. The face of the country west looks level except far in the distance where a range of mountains peers up, their surface white with snow. There is good grass here but no timber nor in fact any in sight except on the mountains. Since leaving the pass we have descended considerably, winding around and between high bluffs or hills, but the road is good. One of the Oregon men is returning with us today and then intends to wait for the next companies, etc., and act as a pilot for them. His name is Harris and he appears to be extensively known in Oregon and the subject of much dispute on account of his having found out a new route to Oregon much south of the old one. He appears to be a man of intelligence and well acquainted with the western country. He presented a file of the Oregon papers commencing with February 11, 1847, and five following numbers for our perusal during the day. He also presented a number of the California Star published at Yerba Buena by Samuel Brannan and edited by E. P. Jones. I had the privilege of perusing several of these papers during the day but found little interesting news. Mr. Harris says he is well acquainted with the Bear River valley and the region around the salt lake. From his description, which is very discouraging, we have little chance to hope for even a moderately good country anywhere in those regions. He speaks of the whole region as being sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation except the wild sage. He gives the most favorable account of a small region under the Bear River mountains called the Cache Valley where they have practiced caching their robes, etc., to hide them from the Indians. He represents this as being a fine place to winter cattle. After halting some time we proceeded onward and crossed the stream which is about three feet wide, then halted on its banks at twelve o'clock, having traveled six and a quarter miles, the day warm. The latitude at this halt was 42° 18' 58". At 2:25 we started again and proceeded over gently rolling land and good hard road till 6:40 when we formed our encampment on the west banks of the Dry Sandy, having traveled this afternoon nine miles and during the day fifteen and a quarter. The country west for many miles appears destitute of timber and the view is very extensive. There is very little grass to be seen anywhere and not much near this creek. There is but little water in the creek at first sight, but by digging and tramping on the quick sand, sufficient can easily be obtained to supply a large company. Elder Kimball has been on the road nearly two miles farther but discovered no chance for a camping ground better than this. Mr. Harris has described a valley forty miles above the mouth of the Bear River, and thirty miles below the Bear Springs which might answer our purpose pretty well if the report is true. It is about thirty miles long and fifteen miles wide and tolerably well timbered. We generally feel that we shall know best by going ourselves for the reports of travelers are so contradictory it is impossible to know which is the truth without going to prove it. It is three years today since our brethren Joseph and Hyrum were taken from us and it was the general feeling to spend the day in fasting and prayer but the gentile companies being close in our rear and feed scarce, it was considered necessary to keep ahead of them for the benefit of our teams, but many minds have reverted back to the scenes at Carthage jail, and it is a gratification that we have so far prospered in our endeavors to get from under the grasp of our enemies.
Monday, June 28
Morning fine but cool. Many of the brethren are trading with Mr. Harris for pants, jackets, shirts, etc., made of buckskins and also the skins themselves. He sells them high. The skins at $1.50 and $2.00; a pair of pants $3.00, etc. He will take rifles, powder, lead, caps or calico and domestic shirts in exchange but puts his own price on both sides and it is difficult to obtain even a fair trade. At half past seven we proceeded on our journey, Mr. Harris waiting for the other companies. After traveling six miles the road forks, one continuing a west course, the other taking a southwest course. We took the left hand road which leads to California. This junction of the road is 297½ miles from Fort John. We then continued to travel over a desert land yielding nothing but wild sage and occasionally a grass root and weeds until 1:30 when we arrived and halted for noon on the banks of the Little Sandy, having traveled thirteen and a half miles without signs of wood, water or feed for our teams. This stream is about twenty feet wide on an average but at the fording place over three rods, two and a half feet deep, muddy water and swift current. There is not much grass and no timber except willow bushes. There is a variety of roots bearing very handsome colored flowers. One of the brethren has picked up a large piece of petrified wood. It resembles the outside layer of a cottonwood tree next to the bark, and appears to have rotted and broken off short then petrified and turned to a solid, heavy, hard, flint stone, but retaining its original shape and appearance. At 4:15 we commenced fording the river and found it in no way difficult until a number of the wagons had gotten over and the banks began to be soft and muddy. Several of the latter teams required help. At 4:45 all were safely over with no loss except two tar buckets considered to be of no worth. We then proceeded on, expecting to go about eight miles farther, but after traveling a little over a mile we were met by Elder G. A. Smith who introduced us to Mr. Bridger of Bridger's Fort on his way to Fort John in company with two of his men. Mr. Bridger being informed that we had designed to call at his place to make some inquiries about the country, etc., he said if we would turn off the road here and camp, he would stay with us till morning. A camping place being selected we turned off from the road about a quarter of a mile and formed our encampment near the Sandy at six o'clock, having traveled this afternoon one and three-quarters miles, exclusive of allowance for leaving the road, and during the day fifteen and a quarter miles. We have pretty good feed here, enough to fill the teams well. A while after we camped, the twelve and several others went to Mr. Bridger to make some inquiries concerning our future route, the country, etc. It was impossible to form a correct idea of either from the very imperfect and irregular way he gave his descriptions, but the general items are in substance as follows: