Monday, July 26

Morning cloudy and pleasant. The brethren commenced plowing early, others are gone to planting, etc., and the brethren appear to feel well. Some of the sick have been to bathe in one of the hot springs and pronounce the effects wonderfully beneficial. Others are going this morning to try the same experiment. Another company are gone to make a road to the timber through a ravine a little north of this. About ten o'clock, President Young sent me a horse with instructions to join him and some others going on a short exploring expedition. I immediately started and found the company consisted of President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff, G. A. Smith, Benson, Richards and Carrington. We took a course northward passing by the land where the brethren are plowing and planting. The land indeed looks rich and light. About three-quarters of a mile north of the camp, we arrived on a beautiful table land, level and nicely sloping to the west. Here we halted to view it and the more we viewed, the better we were satisfied that it is as handsome a place for a city as can be imagined. At the east part there is a considerable creek of clear cold water descending from the mountains and just above this place it branches into two forks, one running northwest, the other southwest, and the two nicely surrounding this place, and so well arranged that should a city be built here the water can be turned into every street at pleasure. We passed on and began to ascend the mountains, the President signifying a wish to ascend a high peak to the north of us. After some hard toil and time we succeeded in gaining the summit, leaving our horses about two-thirds the way up. President Young felt pretty well fatigued when he got up. Some of the brethren feel like naming this Ensign Peak. From this place, we had a good view of the Salt Lake and could see that the waters extend for a great many miles to the north of us. There appears to be land, although white with salt, all the way to the mountain on the northwest which we had previously supposed was surrounded by water. We can see a pretty large stream winding from the south to the north through the valley but keeping not many miles distant from these mountains towards the lake. After satisfying ourselves we began to descend, President Young and Lorenzo, who joined us a while before we went up, going down on the east side where they were joined by Elders Woodruff, Benson, and Richards with the horses. Elders Kimball, Smith, Carrington and myself descended on the northwest corner and found the descent very lengthy and difficult. These hills are mostly rocky of a kind of soft stone in some places, in others a harder kind of flint stone. On arriving on the level again, we wound our way southward to meet the other brethren and after passing a little way saw one of the sulphur springs where a pretty large stream of sulphur water boils out of the rock at the foot of the mountain and thence branches out into several smaller streams for some distance till these enter a small lake. This water is about as warm as dish water and very salty. There is much filthy kind of substance collected on it and the smell arising from it is truly nauseating and sickly, though generally supposed to be in no way unhealthy. Elder Kimball left us here on seeing Elder Woodruff's carriage and the other brethren returning back towards the camp. In the meantime, Elders Smith, Carrington and myself went lower down towards the lake in search of some fresh water to quench our thirst. We found a nice clear stream of cold water but a little way from the sulphur spring and having drunk of it, we concluded to go on and see the river which we had noticed from the mountain. We took nearly a west course and soon struck the old road made by emigrants last year. We found the land exceedingly rich all along, good grass and abundance of rushes. We found many wet places but no signs of swamps, nor danger of miring. After traveling about two miles, we arrived at the river having followed the road to the ford. This river is about five rods wide on an average, three and a half feet deep at the ford but in other places much deeper. The current is slow and the water of a dark lead color. The banks are about five feet high and the soil to the water level of a rich, black alluvial. There is no timber on the banks here and not many willow bushes. We went over the river and found the soil equally good on the other side. While here we observed Elder Woodruff's carriage and the brethren again proceeding northward. We started back to meet them, it being the intention to go to the large, hot sulphur spring. We could but remark all along, the richness of the soil and the abundance of high, good looking grass. On arriving at the foot of the mountain beside another sulphur spring, we saw the carriage come on to the first spring but apparently judging it unsafe to cross, they wheeled around and returned back to camp. Elders Smith, Carrington and myself then concluded to go on and view the big spring which we found to be about two miles farther. Before arriving at it, there is a large shoal salt lake and on the banks are numerous sulphur springs varying in the appearance of the surface and losing themselves in the lake. There were many plovers on and around this lake. We arrived at the big spring about four o'clock and making our horses fast, we went down to where it boils out of the rock. This spring is also situated at the foot of the mountains and at the base of a large rock, perpendicular on the west side and gradually losing itself on the east in the mountain. The spring, as I have said, is at the base of this rock. There is a circular hole about four feet wide and a yard high from the top to the surface of the water from whence the water boils out in a considerable stream. The water itself in the spring seems to be about two feet deep. There is a rock at the mouth of the spring where a person can stand and see inside. Standing on this rock with your face near the mouth of the spring a strong warm sulphurous air is felt to come in gusts out of the rock and it is so hot that it requires only a few minutes to start the perspiration. On putting my hand in the spring, I was startled with the heat and found I could not bear to hold my hand in five seconds. It is as hot as the hottest dish water ever used for dishes. Immediately on emerging from the rock, the water forms a lake about three rods in diameter and evidently pretty deep. The water is exceedingly clear and nice to look at but very salty indeed. We could see the water boil up in many parts of the lake. The water escapes at the north side of the lake at the base of the rock and there forms a stream about four feet wide and eighteen inches deep. We concluded we would go down the stream six or eight rods to wash our feet, naturally expecting the water to be cooler, but on taking off our boots and socks we found it impossible to hold our feet in it a moment and could barely wash by dashing the water on with our hands and suddenly dipping them in and out. It is supposed this would boil an egg in about ten minutes. At five o'clock we returned back to camp and supposed that the spring is about four miles distance. We arrived in camp at six o'clock. The brethren have planted about three acres of potatoes, some peas, beans, and are now planting four or five acres of corn. Elder Kimball stated that on returning with the carriage to the creek near the camp to get some water, he discovered that he had lost his spy glass. He retraced his steps on foot to the top of the peak and back without finding it, and on arriving at the bottom he saw Elders Richards and Benson bathing in one of the warm sulphur springs. Although wet with perspiration he took off his clothes and plunged in and found the effects very pleasant and beneficial. After bathing they started back for camp and but a few rods distance found the glass near the road. Some of the brethren have commenced making a garden about two miles to the southeast and indeed their operations and industry are truly pleasing and noble. The more I view the country, the better I am satisfied that the Saints can live here and raise abundant crops. Elder Kimball has kindly offered me a horse to ride and view the country as much and when I have a mind to while we stay here. This morning Joseph Mathews and John Brown started west to go to the mountain. They returned this evening and report that they have been at the foot of the mountain and judge it to be about sixteen miles distance. They say the wild sage is very plentiful on the other side the valley, showing that the land is not so rich there as here. They found a horse, near the mountain and have brought it to camp, supposed to have strayed from emigrants who have previously passed this way. Towards sundown heavy clouds were noticed in the south and southwest. We expected a shower, but it passed off to the east.

Tuesday, July 27

Morning fine and warm. The atmosphere appears very different here to what it did amongst the mountains. The evenings and nights are very warm and pleasant and the air appears pure. Two of the Utah Indians came to camp early this morning to trade. Two ponies were bought of them for a rifle and musket. These two are but of moderate size, pleasing countenance and dressed in skins. At half past eight Amasa Lyman, Rodney Badger, Roswell Stevens, and Brother Brannan arrived in camp. They report that the Pueblo company will be in tomorrow or the day after. The brethren are still busy plowing and planting. Burr Frost has his forge up and quite a number of plows have been rigged up by the assistance of the carpenters. Elder Lyman, I understand, reports that they heard of a large company on their way and he thinks we may expect them in 15 or 20 days. Elders Lyman and Brannan joined the exploring party with President Young and Kimball and the company started off soon after their arrival. A company of brethren have been to the mountains to get more lumber to build a skiff. They returned this evening bringing a very handsome pine log about twenty inches through and which, probably, when whole, would measure sixty feet long. The day has been very fine and warm. The horses and cattle seem in good spirits and are getting fat. They are full of life and ambition. Presidents Young and Kimball have had their wagons moved a little distance from the camp to the other side the creek. During the afternoon, two more Indians came in to trade. Some of the brethren are making unwise trades, giving twenty charges of powder and balls for a buck skin, while the usual price is three charges. This is wrong.

Wednesday, July 28

Morning fine and warm. Several of the Indians have remained in camp over night. They seem very peaceable and gentle and anxious to trade. The brethren are making a saw pit to saw lumber for a skiff. Joseph Hancock and Lewis Barney have been off hunting in the mountains two days. They state there is abundance of good timber for building in the mountains but difficult to get at it. The timber is mostly balsam fir and poplar and many sticks will make two good logs. At half past three President Young and company returned. They have been at the Salt Lake and report it to be about twenty-five miles distance. No water after they leave the river except salt water. The lake is very clear and the water heavy, so much so, that a man cannot possibly sink. Even not where more than four feet deep and they tried to fall down on their knees but could not touch the bottom. They can sit or lie in the water perfectly easily without touching the bottom. One of the brethren lay down on the water and another got on him but could not sink him. They suppose the water will yield 35% pure salt. They gathered some off the rocks which is as pure, white and fine as the best that can be bought in market.

There is a cave in the mountain west of the camp which is sixty feet from the entrance to the far end. The Indians appear to have frequently visited it and there are yet the remains of their fires.

There appears to be no fresh water beyond the river and the brethren are more and more satisfied that we are already on the right spot. At eight o'clock the brethren were called together and addressed by President Young on various subjects, pointing out items of law which would be put in force here, his feelings towards the gentiles, etc. He said they intended to divide the city into blocks of ten acres each with eight lots in a block of one and a quarter acres each. The streets to be wide. No house will be permitted to be built on the corners of the streets, neither petty shops. Each house will have to be built so many feet back from the street and all the houses parallel with each other. The fronts are to be beautified with fruit trees, etc. No filth will be allowed to stand in the city but the water will be conducted through in such a manner as to carry all the filth off to the River Jordan. No man will be suffered to cut up his lot and sell a part to speculate out of his brethren. Each man must keep his lot whole, for the Lord has given it to us without price. The temple lot will be forty acres and adorned with trees, ponds, etc. The whole subject was interesting to the brethren and the items will probably be given more fully hereafter. The Twelve were appointed a committee to lay off the city, etc.

Thursday, July 29

We have had a very strong cold, east wind all the night and the morning is tolerably cool. At eleven o'clock I was moved up to the other camp about three-quarters of a mile. At ten o'clock we had a light shower. It rained pretty heavily all around but mostly passed by here. At three o'clock, the Pueblo brethren came in sight, the soldiers appearing in military order, many of them mounted. They have twenty-nine wagons in the company and one carriage. Presidents Young, Kimball and the Twelve went to meet the brethren and met them in the canyon. They report that they had very heavy rain there, the water rising in the creek three feet in a very short time, caused by the rush from the mountains. The brethren arrived at the lower camp at half past three and marched in headed by the fifes and side drum. They have camped a little west of the other camp. The brethren are represented as feeling well and cheerful. At five o'clock the Twelve returned here and an hour later went over north to the mountains, I suppose to hold a council.