The essential requirements for a water suitable for the needs of the fur dressing and dyeing industry, are: first, a sufficient, constant and uniform supply; and second, the absence of certain deleterious ingredients. Chemically pure water is simply the product of the combination of two parts by volume of hydrogen with one part by volume of oxygen. Such water can only be made in the laboratory, and is of no importance in industry. For practical purposes, distilled water may be regarded as the standard of pure water. Here, too, the cost and trouble involved in the production of distilled water on a large scale is warranted only in a certain few industrial operations. A natural source of water which in its character most nearly approaches distilled water is rain. In fact, rain-water is a distilled water, for the sun’s heat vaporizes the water from the surface of the earth forming clouds, which on cooling, are condensed and come down as rain. Rain-water is usually regarded as the purest form of natural water. Exclusive of the first rain after a dry period, rain-water is quite free of impurities, except possibly for a small percentage of dissolved atmospheric gases, which are practically harmless, and which can usually be readily eliminated by heating the water. Moreover, rain-water is quite uniform in its composition throughout the year in the same locality, and it possesses all the desirable qualities of a water suited for fur dressing and dyeing purposes. Formerly when the quantity of water used in the industry was comparatively small, the supply from rain was sufficient to meet all the requirements. But now, when tremendous quantities of water are used constantly, rain-water is no longer a feasible source, and other supplies must be utilized, although in a sense, all water may be traced to rain-water as its origin.

When rain-water falls on the earth it either sinks into the ground until it reaches an impervious layer, where it collects as a subterranean pool, forming a well, or continues to flow underground until it finally emerges at the surface as a spring; or on the other hand the rain-water may sink but a short distance below the surface, draining off as ponds, lakes or rivers. In the first case the water is called ground water, in the latter it is known as surface water. Ground water usually contains metallic salts in solution, and relatively little suspended matter. If the water has percolated through igneous rocks, like granite, it may be quite free even of dissolved salts, and such water is considered “soft.” If, however, the rocky formations over which, or through which, the water has passed contain limestone or sandstone, or the like, salts of calcium and magnesium will be dissolved by the water. The presence of the lime and magnesia salts, as well as salts of aluminum and iron, in the water, causes it to be what is termed “hard.” Surface water is more likely to contain suspended matter, with very little of dissolved substances. Suspended matter, like mud, contains much objectionable matter such as putrefactive organisms and iron, but most of these materials can be removed by filtration or sedimentation, and seldom cause any difficulties.

Hardness in water is generally the chief source of trouble when the water is at fault. Hardness may be of two kinds, either permanent, or temporary, or sometimes both are found together. Water which is permanently hard usually contains the lime and magnesia combined as sulphates. Temporary hardness, on the other hand, is due to the presence of lime and magnesia in the form of bicarbonates, the carbon dioxide contained in the water having dissolved the practically insoluble carbonates:

CaCO3+CO2+H2O=Ca(HCO3)2
calcium
carbonate
carbon
dioxide
water calcium
bicarbonate

Temporary hardness can be eliminated by heating the water, the carbon dioxide being expelled and the carbonates of lime and magnesia being precipitated and then filtered off. Both permanently and temporarily hard waters can be softened by the addition of the proper chemical, such as an alkaline carbonate like sodium carbonate. This precipitates insoluble carbonates of the lime, magnesia, iron and aluminum, leaving a harmless salt of sodium in solution in the water. The sludge is allowed to settle in tanks before the water is used.

In fur dressing and dyeing, water is employed for soaking and washing the skins, dissolving chemicals, extracts and dye materials, and also for steam boilers. A small amount of hardness in the water is not harmful, and up to 10 parts of solid matter per 100,000, may be disregarded. Permanent hardness is particularly objectionable in water for boiler purposes, as it forms scale. The effect of the impurities of the water depends on the nature of the chemicals and dyes used. Where acids are used in solution compounds of magnesium, lime and aluminum will generally not interfere. Hard water must not be used for soap solutions, as sticky insoluble precipitates are formed with the soap by the metals, this compound adhering to the hair, and being difficult to remove, will cause considerable trouble in subsequent dyeing. An appreciable loss of soap also results, as one part of lime, calculated as carbonate will render useless twelve parts of soap. In tanning or mordanting, where salts of tin, aluminum or iron are employed, hard water should not be used, as lime and magnesia will form precipitates with them. Bichromates will be reduced to neutral salts, and cream of tartar will also be neutralized. With dyes also, hard water has a deleterious effect. Basic dyes are precipitated by this kind of water, rendering part of the dye useless, and also causing uneven and streaky dyeings. Sometimes the shades of the dyeings are modified or unfavorably affected. Considerable quantities of lime and magnesia in the water will cause duller shades with logwood and fustic dyeings. The presence of iron, even in very slight quantities generally alters the shade, darkening and dulling the color.

These facts were apparently all recognized and understood by the fur dressers and dyers of an earlier period, for instead of utilizing the water of lakes and streams near at hand, which afforded a more constant supply, but which contained harmful impurities, they collected the rain-water, which was always soft. Whether they realized the nature and character of the substances that make water hard is uncertain, but they were always careful to avoid such water. At the present time establishments located in and about large cities like New York, where the majority of American fur dressing and dyeing plants are situated, have no trouble about the water. The cities supply water which is soft, suitable alike for drinking and industrial purposes. Other plants, not so fortunately situated, often have to employ chemical means to treat the water so as to make it suitable for use.


CHAPTER VIII
FUR DYEING
Introductory and Historical

In discussing fur dyeing, the question naturally arises, “Why dye furs at all? Are not furs most attractive in their natural colors, and therefore more desirable than those which acquire their color through the artifices of man?” The answer cannot be given simply. Natural furs of the more valuable kinds are indeed above comparison with the majority of dyed furs. Yet there are several reasons which fully justify and explain the need for fur dyeing, for at the present time, this branch of the fur industry is almost as important and indispensable as the dressing of furs.