Caustic soda is used only on furs the hair of which is very hard and resistant to killing. Usually it is applied by the brush process, but in some instances, the dip method must be used. In order to reduce as far as possible, the action of the caustic soda on the leather, the weakest permissible solutions are used, increasing the time of treatment, if necessary. Caustic soda is a white, crystalline substance, occurring in commerce in lumps, but more conveniently in a solution of 40 degrees Beaumé, containing 35% of caustic soda. Various quantities, ranging from 4 to 25 grams of this solution per liter of water are taken, according to the character of the fur, and the skins treated for 2–3 hours, although weaker solutions may be used, and increasing the duration of the killing. By keeping the solution in motion, by means of a stirrer or any other method of agitation, the best results are obtained. After the skins are sufficiently killed, they are soured, and washed as by the other killing methods.
Where the nature of the hair of the fur is such that the top-hair and the under-hair require different killing treatments, the skins are first killed by the dip process, with an alkali suited to kill the under-hair, then a brush killing with a stronger alkali is applied to the top-hair. The subsequent treatments are the same as for usual dip-killing methods.
CHAPTER XI
FUR DYEING
Mordants
The hair of furs has the peculiar quality of fixing the oxides or hydroxides of certain metals from dilute solutions of their salts. Advantage is taken of this property to mordant the furs, that is, to cause a certain amount of the metallic oxide or hydroxide to be permanently absorbed by the fibres. The term mordant comes from the French word “mordre,” meaning to bite, it being formerly considered that the purpose of a mordant was to attack the surface of the hair in such a way as to permit the dye to be more easily absorbed. In fact, killing mixtures, which were intended for this same object, used to contain the various chemicals which have a mordanting action, in addition to the alkaline constituents. The mordants were not applied as such, but always as killing materials. It was later realized, however, that the mordant was instrumental in the production of the color itself.
Mordanting may be considered as having a two-fold object: first, to help fix the dye on the fibre in a more permanent fashion, thus rendering the dyeings faster; and secondly, to help obtain certain shades of color, as the various mordants produce different shades with any given dye. Some classes of dyes can be applied to furs without the use of mordants, but other types are taken up only in a very loose manner, being easily washed out from the hair with water, and it is only when such dyes are brought on to the hair in the form of a metallic compound, producing what is known as a “lake,” that really fast dyeings are obtained with them. The substances which are used for mordanting the hair are certain metallic compounds, but not all metallic salts which are used in dyeing are mordants. Sometimes such a compound is employed to develop the color of the dyeing by after-treatment, as in the case of after-chroming, the action of the metallic salt being directed only to the dye, and is not fixed by the fibre as a mordant must be. In order for a metallic compound to act as a true mordant, it must be fixed by the hair, and it must combine with the dye, thus forming a sort of connecting link between the dye and the hair. It is not absolutely essential that the mordant be applied first, although this is the customary and commonest practise. There are three ways by which the mordants can be fixed on the fur hair: First, by the absorption of the metallic oxide or hydroxide from a solution of the mordant prior to the dyeing; second, the mordant may be fixed on the fibre at the same time as the dye; and third, the mordant may be applied after the fur has been treated with the dye. The last two methods will be discussed in connection with the dyes, as they are special cases.
The salts of metals which are comparatively easily dissociated in water, with the formation of insoluble oxides or hydroxides, are most applicable as mordants for furs, and among them are compounds of aluminum, iron, chromium, copper and tin. The constituents of the hair seem to bring about the dissociation of the metallic salt, and the oxide or hydroxide as the case may be, is absorbed and firmly fixed by the hair. Just what the manner and nature of this fixation are, is still uncertain. It is supposed that chemical combination takes place between the hair and the metal. The course of this process may, as far as is known, be described as follows, taking, for example, the case of chromium sulphate: In dilute solution, this compound gradually dissociates first into its basic salts, and finally into the hydroxide, the breaking up of the neutral salt being induced by the presence of the fur-hair.
| Cr2(SO4)3 | + | 2H2O | = | Cr2(SO4)2(OH)2 | + | H2SO4 |
| chromium sulphate | water | first basic chrome salt | sulphuric acid |
| Cr2(SO4)2(OH)2 | + | 2H2O | = | Cr2(SO4)(OH)4 | + | H2SO4 |
| second basic chrome salt |
| Cr2(SO4)(OH)4 | + | 2H2O | = | Cr2(OH)6 | + | H2SO4 |
| chromium hydroxide |