Acid dyes are employed when a greater fastness is required than can be obtained with the basic colors. Sulphuric acid in a quantity equal to half the weight of the dyestuffs used, together with four times that quantity of Glauber’s salt is added to the dyebath. Formic acid may be used in place of the sulphuric acid, very good results being obtained. The skins are immersed in the dyebath, and worked until thoroughly soaked with the dye liquor, and then allowed to remain until the proper depth of shade is attained, or overnight. The temperature of the solution is about 40° C., and only very light shades can be produced in this manner. In 1900 and again in 1914, the Cassella Co., a large German manufacturer of dyestuffs, obtained patents for processes enabling the dyeing of furs in hot solution with the acid dyes. The method required that the skins be chrome-tanned in order to render them resistant to the action of hot solutions, the addition of a small amount of formaldehyde to the chrome solution increasing this effect. The skins are then treated with a solution of chloride of lime in order to increase the affinity of the hair for the dyestuffs. The method as it is now practised is as follows: The skins which have been cleaned and washed are chrome tanned by the method as described in the chapter on Tanning Methods, 60 grams of formaldehyde being added to every 10 liters of the chrome solution. After proper tanning the skins are rinsed, and while still moist they are subjected to a treatment with chloride of lime. They are first immersed for 15 minutes in a cold bath containing 120 grams of hydrochloric acid 32–36° Twaddell per 10 liters of water, then without rinsing, they are entered into a bath made up by adding gradually in four portions the clear solution of 2–4 grams of the chloride of lime per 10 liters of water. After working for an hour, the skins are removed and entered again into the acid solution, in which they are worked for another 15 minutes. In order to neutralize and remove the last traces of the chloride of lime from the furs, they are rinsed in a luke-warm bath containing 1–2 grams of sodium thiosulphate, or hyposulphite of soda, in 10 liters of water. The skins are then rinsed again, and hydro-extracted, or pressed, and are ready for dyeing. The dyebath is prepared with the required quantity of dye, to which is added 10–20% Glauber’s salt and 2–5% acetic acid (both calculated on the weight of the skins). The skins are entered at 20° C., then after three-quarters of an hour to 40° C., and then after another hour slowly to 50–55° C. For blacks, the temperature is raised as high as 65° C. After dyeing the skins are treated with a solution containing per 10 liters

90–120grams of olive-oil soap
12–25grams olive oil
12grams ammonia

for 15 minutes, then hydro-extracted and dried, without further rinsing.

For this method of dyeing, the following dyes may be used:

For yellow and orange

For reds

For violet