CHAPTER VIII

Journey from Turin to Bologna—Asti—Schiller and Alfieri—Italian
cuisine—The vetturini—Marengo—Piacenza—The Trebbia—Parma—The
Empress Maria Louisa—Modena—Bologna—The University—The Marescalchi
Gallery—Character of the Bolognese.

CHAPTER IX

Journey across the Appennines to Florence—Tuscan idioms and customs—Monuments and galleries at Florence—The Cascino—Churches— Theatres—Popularity of the Grand Duke—Napoleon's downfall not regretted—Academies in Florence.

CHAPTER X

Journey from Florence to Rome—Sienna—Radicofani—Bolsena—Montefiascone wine—Viterbo—Baccano—The Roman Campagna—The papal douans—Monuments and Museums in Rome—Intolerance of the Catholic Christians—The Tiber and the bridges—Character of the Romans—The Palazzi and Ville—Canova's atelier—Theatricals—An execution in Rome.

CHAPTER XI

From Rome to Naples—Albano—Velletri—The Marshes—Terracina—Mola di
Gaeta—Capua—The streets of Naples—Monuments and Museums—Visit to
Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius—Dangerous ventures—Puzzuoli and
Baiae—Theatres at Naples—Pulcinello—Return to Rome—Tivoli.

CHAPTER XII

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816