CHAPTERPAGE
ICruising in the Black Sea[3]
IIThe Ancient City of Trebizond[29]
IIIRailway Concessions in Turkey[60]
IVThe Caucasus[85]
VThe City of Tiflis[105]
VIMount Ararat and the Oldest Town in the World[129]
VIIThe Armenians and Their Persecutions[154]
VIIIThe Massacres of 1909[168]
IXThe Results of American Missions[185]
XThe Caspian Oil Fields[214]
XIDaghestan and its Ancient Peoples[228]
XIIThe Circassians and the Cossacks[252]
XIIIThe Crimea[265]
XIVSevastopol and Balaklava[292]
XVFlorence Nightingale and Her Work[313]
XVIOdessa, the Capital of Southern Russia[325]
XVIIThe Kingdom of Roumania[348]
XVIIIThe New Régime in Turkey[379]
XIXThe Emancipation of Turkish Women[411]
XXRobert College and Other American Schools[430]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Map of the Black Sea[Opposite title page]
A Turk of Trebizond[10]
Coffee peddler on our steamer[10]
Group of Lazis, Armenia, ready for a dance[53]
The city of Batoum[56]
A Georgian beauty[88]
A Georgian prince and his sons[88]
Head dress of a Georgian lady[94]
The native costume of Georgia[94]
Section of the road in Dariel Pass[95]
A Georgian gentleman and wife[100]
A Georgian peasant[100]
Principal club at Tiflis[106]
Floating flour mill, Tiflis[110]
A Georgian cavalier[114]
Palace of the viceroy, Tiflis[120]
Patriarch of the Georgian Church, Tiflis[126]
A Georgian prince[126]
Mount Ararat[131]
Nakhikheban, founded by Noah on the slope of Ararat, the oldest town in the world[142]
Entrance to the monastery of Etchmiadzin, Armenia[155]
Kibitkas of the nomadic tribes[160]
Persian quarter, Baku[213]
A mosque of Baku[213]
Temple of the fire worshippers near Baku[216]
Domes of the Persian section of Baku[224]
Prince Schamyl; “The Lion of Daghestan,” and his sons[228]
City Hall, of Vladicaucasus[249]
Type of the old-fashioned Circassian[252]
A Circassian gentleman[257]
Type of Circassian beauty[257]
Gateway to Aloupka Palace, Crimea[266]
Villa of the Czar at livadia, Crimea[284]
Villa at Livadia in which Alexander III. died[290]
Grafskaya Pristan, Monumental Landing, Sevastopol[294]
Memorial Church, Sevastopol[294]
The village of Balaklava[304]
Chamber of Commerce, Odessa[328]
Municipal Opera House, Odessa[332]
View of the Bosphorus; ancient castle of Mohammed the Great in foreground[392]
Robert College, on the Bosphorus[432]

AROUND THE BLACK SEA

CHAPTER I
CRUISING IN THE BLACK SEA

There are several lines of steamers on the Black Sea, sailing under the Turkish, Greek, Russian, German, French, Austrian, and Italian flags. The steamers of the North German Lloyd Company, which sail from Genoa and Naples, through the Dardanelles and the Bosphorus, are best, but they visit only the ports on the northern coast. The Austrian Lloyd steamers, which come from Trieste, are second best, and we were fortunate in obtaining cabins on the Euterpe, which is old-fashioned, but comfortable. The captain is an Italian of Trieste, who speaks English well, as do two of the under officers; the steward is thoughtful and attentive and the cook is beyond criticism.

The passengers were a perfect babel, representing all the races and speaking all the tongues of the East, with several Europeans mixed in, each wearing his own peculiar costume. There were Turks of all kinds and all classes and all ages wearing fezzes of red felt; there were Persians, wearing fezzes of black lamb’s-wool; Albanians with fezzes of white felt, and Jews with turbans and long robes, such as they used to wear in the days of the Scriptures. We had several Turkish army officers to amuse us, and one big, blue-eyed general, who looked like a philanthropist, but is said to be a fiend of a fighter. There were English, German, and French tourists and rug buyers on their way to Persia and Turkestan; a very fat Austrian woman who was going to visit her son, consul at Batoum, and several Russians who had been visiting Paris and the Riviera and were on their way back to their homes in the Caucasus.