CONTENTS.


[CHAP. I.]
ALEXANDRIA.
Antient wallsand ruins — The two ports — Reservoirs — Vegetation — Antiquities —Population — Government — Commerce — Manufactures — Anecdote ofrecent history.Page 1
[CHAP. II.]
SIWA.
Attempt to penetrate to the Temple ofJupiter Ammon — Route and provisions — Animals of the desert —Occurrences on the road — Description of Siwa — Antient edifice —Intercourse with other countries — Produce and manners — Attempt topenetrate farther into the desert — Return.14
[CHAP. III.]
FROM ALEXANDRIA TO RASHID.
Abu-kîr — Fertility of the country —Description of Rashîd — Journey to Terané — Fué, Deîrut, andDemenhûr.30
[CHAP. IV.]
TERANE AND THE NATRON LAKES.
Government of Terané — Carlo Rossetti— The trade in natrôn — Manners — Journey to the Lakes —Observations there — Remarks on natrôn — Coptic convents and MSS. —Proceed to Kahira.36
[CHAP. V.]
KAHIRA.
Topography — Government of Kahira andof Egypt — Pasha and Beys — Mamlûks — Birth, education, dress,arms, pay — Estimate of their military skill — Power and revenue ofthe Beys — The Chalige — The NILE — Mosques, baths, and okals —Houses — Manners and customs — Classes of people — Account of theCopts.45
[CHAP. VI.]
KAHIRA.
Commerce — Manufactures — Mint —Castle and well — Misr-el-Attîké and antient mosque — AntientBabylon — Fostat and Bûlak — Jizé — Tomb of Shafei — Pleasure-boats— Charmers of serpents — Magic — Dancing girls — Amusements ofRamadân — Coffee-houses — Price of provisions — Recent history ofEgypt — Account of the present Beys.74
[CHAP.VII.]
KAHIRA.
Brief abstract of the history ofAfrica in general, and Egypt in particular, under the domination ofthe Arabs.93
[CHAP. VIII.]
UPPER EGYPT.
Design to penetrate into Habbesh orAbyssinia — Voyage on the Nile — Description of Assiût — Generalcourse of the Nile — Caverns — Kaw — Achmîm — Painted caverns —Jirjé or Girgi — Dendera — Antient temple — Kous — Topography ofUpper Egypt — El-wah-el-Ghîrbi — Situation of the Oasisparva.120
[CHAP. IX.]
UPPER EGYPT.
Thebes — Site and antiquities —Painted caverns — Their discovery and plan — Manners of the peopleof Thebes — Isna — Fugitive Beys — Antiquities — Rain — Assûan orSyené — Obstacles to farther progress — Return to Ghenné.134
[CHAP. X.]
JOURNEY TO COSSÎR ON THE REDSEA.
Inducements and danger — Route —Account of Cossîr — Commerce — Return by another route — Graniterocks, and antient road — Marble quarries — Pretended canal —Earthen ware of Ghenné — Murder of two Greeks, and subsequentreport of the Author’s death.143
[CHAP. XI.]
OCCURRENCES AT KAHIRA.
Arrival of the Pasha — Death ofHassan Bey — Decline of the French factory in Kahira — Expulsion ofthe Maronite Christians from the Custom-house — Riot among theGaliongîs — Obstructions of the canal of Menûf — Supply of fish inthe pools of Kahira — Expedition of Achmet Aga, &c.151
[CHAP. XII.]
ANTIENT EGYPTIANS.
Their persons, complexion,&c.159
[CHAP. XIII.]
JOURNEY TO FEIUME.
Tamieh — Canals — Feiume — Roses —Lake Mœris — Oasis parva — Pyramids — of Hawara — of Dashûr — ofSakarra — of Jizé, or the Great Pyramids — AntientMemphis — Egyptian capitals.167
[CHAP. XIV.]
JOURNEY TO SINAI.
Route — Suez — Ships andship-building — Trade — Scarcity of water — Remains of the antientcanal — Tûr — Mountains of red granite — Description of Sinai —Eastern gulf of the Red Sea — Return to Kahira.175
[CHAP. XV.]
JOURNEY TO DAR-FÛR,
A KINGDOM IN THE INTERIOR OFAFRICA.
Design to penetrate into the interiorof Africa — Difficulties — Caravan from Soûdan or Dar-Fûr —Preparations — Departure from Assiût — Journey to El-wah —Mountains — Desert — Charjé in El-wah — Bulak — Beirîs — Mughes —Desert of Sheb — Desert of Selimé — Leghéa — Natrôn spring —Difficulties — Enter the kingdom of Fûr — Sweini — Detention —Representations to the Melek — Residence — New difficulties —Villany of Agent — Sultan’s letter — Enmity of the people againstFranks — El-Fasher — Illness — Conversations with the MelekMisellim — Relapse — Robbery — Cobbé — Manners — Return toEl-Fasher — The Melek Ibrahim — Amusements — Incidents — Audienceof the Sultan Abd-el-rachmân-el-Rashîd — His personal character —Ceremonies of the Court.180
[CHAP. XVI.]
DAR-FÛR.
Residence with the Melek Mûsa —Dissimulation of the Arabs — Incidents — Return to Cobbé —Endeavours to proceed farther into Africa — Constrained to exercisemedicine — Festival — Punishment of Conspirators — Art of theSultan — Atrocious conduct of my Kahirine servant — At length anopportunity of departure is offered, after a constrained residencein Dar-Fûr of nearly three years.216
[CHAP. XVII.]
DAR-FÛR.
Topography of Dar-Fûr, with someaccount of its various inhabitants.234
[CHAP. XVIII.]
DAR-FÛR.
On the mode of travelling in Africa —Seasons in Dar-Fûr — Animals —Quadrupeds — Birds — Reptiles and insects — Metals and minerals— Plants.246
[CHAP.XIX.]
DAR-FÛR.
Government — History — Agriculture —Population — Building — Manners, Customs, &c.276
[CHAP. XX.]
DAR-FÛR.
Miscellaneous remarks on Dar-Fûr, andthe adjacent countries.305
[CHAP. XXI.]
MEDICAL OBSERVATIONS.
Psoropthalmia — Plague — Small-pox —Guinea worm — Scrophula — Syphilis — Bile — Tenia — Hernia —Hydrocele — Hemorrhoides and fistula — Apoplexy — Umbilicalruptures — Accouchemens — Hydrophobia — Phlebotomy — Remedies —Remarks — Circumcision — Excision.314
[CHAP. XXII.]
FINAL DEPARTURE FROMKAHIRA, AND JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM.
Voyage down the Nile to Damiatt —Vegetation — Papyrus — Commerce — Cruelty of the Mamlûk government— Voyage to Yaffé — Description of Yaffé — Rama —Jerusalem — Mendicants — Tombs of the kings — Bethlehem —Agriculture — Naplosa — Samaria — Mount Tabor.351
[CHAP. XXIII.]
GALILEE — ACCA.
Improvements by Jezzâr — Trade —Taxes — White Promontory, and River Leontes — Tyre — Seide —Earthquake — Kesrawan — Syrian wines — Beirût — Anchorage —Provisions — River Adonis — Antûra — Harrîse — Tripoli — Ladakia —Journey to Aleppo, or Haleb.366
[CHAP. XXIV.]
OBSERVATIONS AT HALEB.
Sherîfs and Janizaries — Manufacturesand commerce — Quarries — Price of provisions — New sect — Journeyto Antioch — Description of antient Seleucia — Return toHaleb.384
[CHAP. XXV.]
JOURNEY TO DAMASCUS.
Entrance of the Hadjîs — Topographyof Damascus — Trade and manufactures — Population — Observations onthe depopulation of the East — Government and manners of Damascus —Charitable foundations — Anecdotes of recent history — Taxes —Price of provisions — Sacred caravan.394
[CHAP. XXVI.]
Journey from Damascus to Balbec —Syriac language — Balbec — Recent discoveries — Zahhlé —Printing-office — Houses of Damascus — Return to Aleppo.405
[CHAP. XXVII.]
Journey from Aleppo towardsConstantinople — Route — Aintâb — Mount Taurus — Bostan —Inhabitants, their manners and dress — Kaisarîa — Angora — Wallsand antiquities — Angora goats — Manufactures — Topography —Journey to Ismît — Topography — General remarks concerning Anatoliaor Asia Minor.410
[CHAP. XXVIII.]
Observations at Constantinople —Paswân Oglo — Character of the present Sultan — State of learning —Public libraries — Turkish taste — Coals — Greek printing-house —Navy — Return to England.419
[CHAP. XXIX.]
Comparative view of life andhappiness in the East and in Europe.425
APPENDIX.
No. I.Illustration of Maps[Page 445]
II.Itineraries[451]
III.Meteorological Table[473]
IV.Remarks on the works of Savary andVolney[481]
V.Remarks on the recent French accountsof Egypt[486]
VI.Explanation of the plate facing page286[495]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

An ancient Egyptian Temple complete, from the Description of Strabo.[Frontispiece]
Map of the route of the Soudan Caravan[to face page 180]
Map of Darfur[to face page 284]
Sketch of a Plan of the Residence of the Sultan of Fûr.[to face page 286]

TRAVELS
IN
AFRICA,
EGYPT, AND SYRIA.