The whole people collected did not amount to more than 300. The arms, at least were wretched, consisted of culverins, which went off with an enormous report, and matchlocks with short rests, like the end of a pitchfork. The bows were long and good. The helmets were worn on the head when going and coming, but were allowed to sling on the back while resting here; they are rude iron things, like bowls, but covered for some way up the sides with cloth in a most unbecoming way. Dirt and noise were predominant; the dancing women, evidently not what they should be, had clean faces, but horridly dirty feet, and were very plain. The dancing was poor, consisting chiefly of ungraceful motions of the hands and forearms; the singing pleasing, harmonious but monotonous.

A peculiar kind of spirit called Chonghoons is in great requisition: this liquor is pleasant, perfectly clear like whiskey and water, with a small matter of malt in it.

Fumaria is found here much more advanced than that at Bulphai, Drymaria ovata. They cultivate one sort of Legume, perhaps more; mangoes, jacks and pomegranates; all these trees bear fruit towards the end of the hot weather. A young mango tree was observed with opposite leaves, uppermost pair one abortive nearly: thus the Mariam of Burma, may probably present the normal form of foliation. Adoee fish [{227}] found in the Monass.

Bheirs, papia, tobacco, banyan, of these last, poor specimens may be seen here. The place is miserably poor, and as it is reckoned one of some importance, its condition shows the barrenness of the country. The Rajah’s house is a large one, apparently consisting of a quadrangle with an elevated story. News arrived yesterday to the effect that tumults still prevailed: the Deb it was said had been deposed by treachery: that a new one had been permanently appointed: but that the usurper did not wish us to come on. Tongsa, however, said that after we have come so far, we should advance, and that we may settle our plans at his place.

February 5th.—Left: descended immediately from the town to the bridge over the Monass. The descent is steep but winding, the face of the hill being nearly precipitous. Close to the river we passed a small field of Cajanus, used for feeding the lac insect. The bridge is a suspension one, the chains, one on either side, being of iron in square links; the curve is considerable, in the form of the letter V, the sides being of mat. Hence it is difficult to cross, and this is increased by the bridge swinging about considerably: it is seventy yards in span, and about thirty above the Monass.

The Monass is 1,300 feet below Benka, it is a large river, the banks being about eighty yards apart, but this space is not generally filled with water. Its violence is extreme.

We continued along this river some time, gradually rising from its bed until we ascended nearly 1,000 feet. We continued at this elevation until we reached Nulka, to which place we descended a little. The whole march was through a barren, rocky, burnt-up country. The Monass was in sight nearly the whole distance. Passed two villages, both small, one on the right and one on the left bank of the river. No change in vegetation occurred except that we came upon pines, P. longifolia about a mile and a half from Nulka, coming into flower. I am almost inclined to think this is different from the Khasya species, Kurrimia, Indigofera pulchra, Desmodium, Buddleia sp., were the only plants of a novel nature that occurred. The hills are chiefly clothed with Andropogoneous grasses, very little cultivation was observed, but there seemed to be more on high hills to the east.

CHAPTER XII.

Continuation of the journey in Bootan.