April 24th.—Continued our course, and arrived at Bamoo about 5½ P.M.; the greater part of the journey extended through the Kioukdweng, or defile, in which some terrific places occur, one in particular known by two rocks which are called the Elephant and Cow. Passed several small villages before we made our exit from the K. dweng: all inhabited by Poans. Between this and Bamoo the country along the river is truly magnificent, and is well inhabited. The largest village contains about 70 houses; at least seven or eight occur, between the points above noted.
The Kioukdweng is a remarkable and an awful object. The greatest breadth of the river while confined within this defile does not exceed 250 yards, and in all the bad places it is contracted to within 100, occasionally 50. From the enormous rise of the river, which, last night alone amounted to an increase of ten feet, the passage is one continued scene of anxiety. In the places above referred to the river rushes by with great velocity, while the return waters caused on either side by the surrounding rocks, occasion violent eddies and whirlpools, so as to render the boat unmanageable, and if upset the best swimmer could not live in these places. The rocks are serpentine and grey limestone, presenting angular masses which project into the stream; the former in all places within high-water mark is of a dark-brown colour. Micaceous slate? likewise occurs, although rarely. The depth is of course enormous, in the low state of the river, when Bayfield passed up, in many places no bottom was found, at 25 or even 40 fathoms, and at this season the water had no doubt risen 40 feet higher. Some idea of the rise that has taken place may be formed from the fact, that in places where, when Bayfield passed up, the stream did not exceed 70 yards in width, it was now 200; and of course a rise of 20 feet in the open river, would determine one of at least 40 within the K. dweng. After passing the Elephant and Cow, which have the usual resemblance implied by their fanciful names, the river widens and becomes tranquil. The whole of this Kioukdweng is truly remarkable, and in many places very picturesque.
The vegetation is, I imagine, similar to that of the low hills about Mogoung; but so dangerous was the passage, that I had but few opportunities of going ashore. The hills are thinly wooded, and all bear many impressions of former clearings; but the spots now under cultivation are certainly few. Besides, we must bear in mind, that the spots cultivated generally throughout thinly populated parts of India are deserted after the first crop, so that a very limited population may clear a great extent of ground. Bayfield tells me, and I consider his authority as excellent, that the population is almost entirely limited to the villages seen during the passage. These do not exceed twelve, and they are all small. None of the hills exceed 500 feet in height (apparently,) they do not present any very peculiar features.
Below the maximum high-water mark the vegetation is all stunted, at least that of the rocks; a tufted Graminea is the most common. Adelia nereifolia (Roxb.), a Celastrinea, a curious Rubiacea, which I also have from Moulmain, two Myrtaceæ, a Rungia, are the most common. I did not observe Podocarpus. In the occasionally sandy spots Campanula, the usual Compositæ, Panica three. Eleusine, Clenopodium, and Atriplex are common, a Stemodia, and Asclepiadea likewise occur. One Clematis carpellis imberbibus, and the Lonicera are met with. No mosses appear to occur. One remarkable tree, Belhoe of Assam, 70 feet high, cortice albido, foliis orbato, panculis (fructus) pendulis, occurs: it has the appearance of an Amentaceous tree.
April 27th.—We have remained at Bamoo; nothing appears to have been settled below, and the river is reported to be unsafe. It has fallen at least three feet since our arrival. Bayfield measured the left channel yesterday; it is nearly 750 yards wide.
Bamoo is situated on the left bank, along which its principal street runs. The town is a very narrow one, the breadth averaging about 200 yards; its extent is considerable, but it scarcely contains 600 houses, and of these 105 are Chinese, and only has one good street, i.e. as to length. Neither are the houses at all good or large, so that the population cannot be established at more than 3000. I allude only to those within the stockade; out of this, and close to Bamoo are two or three small villages. The stockade is of timber, pangaed, or fenced outside for about 30 yards; it has just been completely repaired, as an attack is expected from the Khukeens.
The Chinamen live all together, in a street of low houses built of unbaked bricks; these are not comparable to the houses at Moulmain. There is but little trade now going on. Within the stockade and without, low swampy ravines occur, that cannot be but injurious to the healthiness of the town. The Myoowoon spends all his money in pagodas, none of which are worth seeing: all the roads and bridges he leaves to take care of themselves.
The inferior caked tea, sugarcandy, silk dresses, straw hats, and caps are procurable, but at a high price. Pork is plentiful, and the bazaar is well supplied with fish. It is a much more busy place than Mogoung, as well as considerably larger. The chief export trade with the Chinese is cotton; the revenue however by no means equals that of the Mogoung district.
The country around is nearly flat; on one side of the stockade there is an extensive marsh well adapted for paddy. Otherwise the ground is dry, and tolerably well drained; it appears to have been formerly wooded; at present the environs are occupied by undershrubs. I have observed no peculiar botanical feature. Among the undershrubs are Phyllanthæ 2, Apocynea arborescens, Gelonium, Combretum, Strychnos, Vitex, Melastoma. When I say undershrubs, I mean that such is their present appearance. The only new plant is an elegant Capparis, subscandens, floribus albis, odoratis demum filamentisque purpureo-roseis. About old Pagodas, Pladera of Moulmain, a Labiata, Stemodia, and Andropogon occur.
The cultivated plants are those of the coast, Hyperanthera Moringa, Bixa Orellana, Calotropis gigantea, Artocarpus integrifolia, a Phyllanthus, Cordia Myxa, Carica Papaya, Citrus medica, Plantains, a large and coarse Custard Apple, Mango, Zyziphus, Cocos, Taliera, Agati.