A Manual of Shoemaking and Leather and Rubber Products

by William H. Dooley

One point that is overlooked in considering the shoe industries of the two countries is the great difference in organization. In most European factories, the manufacturer gets all the orders of different kinds, and then attempts to make one or two lines with one or two qualities in the same factory. In Switzerland one may find shoes and slippers for men, women, and children made under the same roof.

In the United States the manufacturer makes a certain line of shoes in one factory, and no other kind. If he has more than one line, he has more than one factory, and each factory turns out a distinct shoe for a distinct purpose. The manufacturer has his salesmen to sell these shoes.

The advantages of the American system are: (1) The managers and workers of a factory turning out a certain line of goods become highly specialized in that line, and can produce better results than the workers in a factory attempting to make two or three lines of goods. (2) A large shoe factory is laid out as a rule to do a certain kind of work, and it seldom changes. This practice makes possible a greater production. On the other hand we have something to learn from the European organization. American manufacturers must meet the foreign trade. In order to do this, the manufacturer must cater to the habits, customs, and climatic conditions. The European manufacturer does this.

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INDEX

• Amhide, black, [58].
• russet, [59].
• Anatomy of the foot, [77], [80].
• Ankle piece, [246].
• Assembling, [126], [177].
• Automobile leather, [225].
• tanning of, [226].
• Backs, [12].
• Backstay, [2], [177], [247].
• Back strap, [177].
• Bal., [177].
• Ball, [178].
• Bating, [19].
• Beading, [178].
• Beamhouse process, [5].
• Beating out, [178].
• Bellows tongue, [178].
• Belting, [62], [63], [178].
• by-products, [69].
• round, [69].
• Belt-knife splits, [60].
• Between substance, [178].
• Bison, [59].
• Blackball, [178].
• Black box chrome side, [58].
• Black hawk patent, [58].
• Blacking the edge, [179].
• Blocking, [179].
• Bloom, [179].
• Blucher, [179].
• Boot, [180].
• Bootee, [180].
• Boris, [59].
• Bottom, [1].
• filling, [180].
• scouring, [180].
• Box calf, [55], [180].
• toe, [181].
• Boxing, [180].
• Branded cowhide, [9].
• Breaking the sole, [181].
• Breast of the heel, [3].
• Brogan, [181].
• Bronko patent, [57].
• Brushing, [181].
• Buckskin, [181].
• Buff, [181].
• Buffing, [181].
• Bull hides, [16].
• Bunions, [84].
• Button fly, [2].
• Butts, [9].
• Cable-nailing machine, invention of, [261].
• Cack, [182].
• Cadet kid, [56].
• side, [57].
• Calf leather, boarded, [40].
• box, [40].
• classes of, [40], [41].
• cadet calf side, [57].
• Dongola, [59].
• dry hides, [40].
• French, [40].
• mat, [40].
• Sheboygan, [59].
• storm, [40].
• suede, [40].
• wax, [40].
• Calf side leather, [57].
• skins, [39], [182].
• Calluses, [83].
• Cambridge calf union splits, [60].
• Cap, [182].
• Carbarettas, [51], [181].
• Carton, [182].
• Cementing, [182].
• Chamois, [182].
• Channeling, [183].
• Channel screwed, [183].
• stitched, [183].
• turning, [184].
• Checking, [184].
• Chemical tanning, [23], [24], [25].
• Chrome flexible splits, [61].
• tannage, [25], [26].
• tanned embossed splits, [62].
• Cleaning, inside, [184].
• nails, [184].
• shoes, [184].
• Clicking, [184].
• Closing, [184].
• on, [184].
• Colonial, [185].
• Colorado steer hides, [9].
• Colored box chrome side, [58].
• Coltskin, [41], [185].
• Combination last, [185].
• Composition, [185].
• Congress gaiter, [186].
• Cordovan, [186].
• Corns, [83], [84].
• Counter, [124], [186].
• pasted, [201].
• Coupon tag, [187].
• Cowhide, [187].
• native, heavy and light, [7-9].
• branded, [9].
• Creasing vamp, [187].
• Creedmore, [187].
• Creole, [187].
• Crimping, [188].
• Cushion sole, [188].
• Cut-off vamp, [188].
• Dyeing, [188].
• Dom Pedro, [188].
• Dongola, [188].
• calf, [59].
• Dressing, [188].
• Dry importation, [40], [41].
• salted hides, [12], [32].
• Edge setting, [188].
• trimming, [188].
• Enamel, [189].
• Eyelet, [189].
• Eyeletting, [189].
• Facing, [189].
• Factory system, first, [254].
• Fair stitch, [189].
• Faking, [189].
• Fat liquored, [27].
• Findings, [189].
• Finishes of upper leather, [38].
• Finishing of upper leather, [5].
• Flap, [190].
• Flesher, [18].
• Flesh splits leather, [38], [60].
• Flexible bends, [61].
• splits, [61].
• Follower, [190].
• Foot, [77].
• adult, [87].
• anatomy of, [77], [78].
• astragalus, [78].
• calcaneum, [78].
• characteristics of, [81].
• cuneiform, [79].
• flatfoot, [78].
• measurements of, [95].
• metatarsal, [79].
• phalanges, [79].
• rheumatism, [79].
• structure of, [86].
• Footwear, history of, [250].
• Forepart finishing, [190].
• Form, [190].
• Foxed, [190].
• Foxing, [2], [190].
• Fresh hides, [7].
• Frizzing, [191].
• Front, [191].
• Fudge-stitched, [133].
• Fundamental shoe terms, [1].
• Furniture leather, [225].
• tanning of, [226].
• Gaiter, [191].
• congress, [186].
• Gem insoles, [191].
• Gemming, [191].
• Glazed kid, [191].
• Gloves, [218].
• grain, [191].
• tanning, [221].
• Goatskin, [191].
• Goodyear welt, [192].
• difference between McKay and, [145].
• Gore, [192].
• Grades of leather, [7].
• Grading, [192].
• Grain leather, [38].
• Green hides, [7].
• Green salted, [12].
• Gum counter, [247].
• Half sole, [192].
• Harness leather, [192].
• Heel, [192].
• breast of, [3].
• finishing, [193].
• lining, [193].
• nailing, [194].
• nailing machine, invention of, [262].
• pad, [193].
• scouring, [194].
• seat, [194].
• shaving, [194].
• trimming, [194].
• Hemlock leather, [29].
• tanning, [29], [30], [194].
• Hercules storm chrome, [59].
• Hides, [4], [194].
• bull, [10], [63].
• classes of, [5], [6].
• country, [10].
• dry, [12], [32].
• dry importation, [40], [41].
• dry salted, [12], [32].
• fresh, [7].
• grades of, [7], [8], [9].
• green, [7].
• green salted, [12], [32].
• imported, [32].
• quality of, [6].
• Inlay, [194].
• Inner sole, [247].
• Inseaming, [195].
• Inseam trimming, [195].
• Instep, [195].
• Iron, [195].
• Ironing uppers, [196].
• Juliette, [196].
• Kid, buckskin, [52].
• buff, [52].
• caster, [51].
• chamois, [52].
• characteristics of, [49].
• Cordovan, [52].
• dull, [49].
• glazed, [49], [50].
• importation of, [45].
• kangaroo, [52], [196].
• kangaroo kid side, [58].
• kinds of finish, [49].
• mat, [49], [50].
• method of collecting, [46-48].
• patent, [49].
• process of tanning, [49].
• seal grain, [52].
• splits, [52].
• suede, [51].
• Kids, [41], [44], [196].
• Kips, [5], [196].
• Lace hook, [196].
• stay, [2], [196].
• Lacing, [197].
• Lasting, [197].
• Lasts, [97], [197].
• combination, [185].
• how made, [97].
• Laying channel, [197].
• Leather, [4].
• automobile and furniture, [226].
• belting, [62].
• effect of cold, [53].
• gloves, [218].
• glove tanning, [221].
• harness, [192].
• hemlock, [29].
• products, manufacture of, [218].
• white, [54].
• Leg cover, [198].
• lining, [198].
• Leveling, [197].
• Lift, [197].
• Lining, [197].
• Lining-in, [198].
• Lip, [190].
• Loading leather, [198].
• Mat royal chrome side, [58].
• McKay shoe, [144], [198], [199].
• difference between Goodyear welt and, [145].
• difference between turned and, [152].
• Middle sole, [199].
• Mock welt, [199].
• Molding, [199].
• Monkey skin, [199].
• Morocco, [199].
• Mules, [199].
• Nap, [199].
• Native cowhides, [9].
• steer hides, [9].
• Naumkeaging, [199].
• Nullifier, [200].
• Oak-tanned leather, [28], [200].
• Oak tanning, [28], [29].
• Ohio buffs, [10].
• Ooze gusset splits, [61].
• leather, [200].
• vamp splits, [62].
• Ottawa, [59].
• black and russet splits, [60].
• Outer filler, [247].
• Outside cutting, [200].
• tap, [200].
• Oxford, [200].
• calf union splits, [60].
• Packer hides, [201].
• Packing, [201].
• Pacs, [201].
• Pancake, [201].
• Para, [248].
• Pasted leather, [201].
• Patent leather, [41-43], [201].
• black hawk, [58].
• effect of cold on, [43].
• objections to, [44].
• Pattern, [201].
• Pebble, [202].
• Pegged shoemaking, [160].
• Pegging, [202].
• Perforating, [118].
• Perforation, [202].
• Pickled skins, [18].
• Piping, [248].
• Polish, [202].
• Porpoise, [202].
• Pressing, [202].
• Pulling lasts, [202].
• Pulling over, [202].
• machine, [127].
• Pump, [202].
• sole, [202].
• Quarter, [2], [203].
• Rag counter, [248].
• Rand, [203].
• Rawhide products, [67].
• Relasting, [203].
• Remnants, [33].
• sole leather, [33-37].
• Repairing, [204].
• Roan, [204].
• Rolling, [204].
• machine, invention of, [257].
• Rough rounding, [204].
• Royal kid, [56].
• Royalties, [204].
• Royalty system, invention of, [260].
• Rubber, [228].
• cloth manufacture, [244].
• commercial grades of, [228].
• drying, [232].
• heels, [241].
• shoe manufacture, [228].
• calendering, [235].
• cutting, [235].
• varnishing, [237].
• vulcanizing, [237].
• washing, [231].
• Russet calf, [204].
• grain, [204].
• Sabot, [204].
• Sack lining, [204], [207].
• Sandal, [205], [250].
• Satin calf, [205].
• Scouring breast, [205].
• Screw fastened, [205].
• Seal grain, [205].
• Second lasting, [205].
• Sewing machine, invention of, [257].
• Shank, [1], [205].
• burnishing, [206].
• finishing, [206].
• Shanking out, [206].
• Sheboygan calf, [59].
• Sheepskin, [206].
• Sheep tanning, [16], [17].
• Shoe, [103].
• apprentice, [253].
• case of, [109].
• cutting room, [112].
• departments of, [103].
• dressing, [142].
• factories, [103].
• finishing, [138].
• heeling, [140].
• methods of manufacture, [103].
• parts of, [1].
• repairing, [167], [170].
• sizes, [85], [207].
• stitching, [119], [131].
• treeing, [140].
• Shoe Machinery Company, organization of, [270].
• Shoemaker, first, in America, [251].
• Shoemaking, [162].
• old-fashioned, [162].
• nail method, [161].
• terms of, [177].
• Shoe pegs, invention of, [257].
• Shoulder, [196].
• Sides, [206].
• Side stay, [248].
• Skins, [6], [207].
• Skirting, [207].
• Skiver, [18], [207].
• Skiving machine, [117].
• Slip, [207].
• Slugging, [207].
• Soaking process, [13], [19].
• Soft tip, [207].
• Sole, [11], [123], [208].
• leather, [27], [28], [208].
• laying, [208].
• breaking of, [181].
• Sorting, [208].
• Spewing, [208].
• Splits, [11], [60-62], [209].
• Spring heel, [209].
• Stamping, [209], [210].
• Standard fastened, [210].
• screw shoemaking, [160].
• Stay, [209].
• Staying, [210].
• Steer hides, native, [9].
• Stitch aloft, [210].
• Stitch down, [210].
• fair, [189].
• separating, [210].
• Stitching, rapid, [203].
• Straight last, [210].
• Stripping, [211].
• Styles, how made, [93].
• Suede, [211].
• Tacking on, [211].
• Tack pulling, [211].
• Tampico, [211].
• Tan, [211].
• royal, [56].
• Tanned leather adulterants, [75].
• effects of perspiration, [71].
• lubrication, [72].
• properties, [70].
• substitutes, [73], [74], [76].
• weighing, [75].
• Tannin, [21].
• Tanning, [4], [21], [211].
• chemical, [21].
• hemlock, [29], [30].
• leather for belting, [64], [65], [66].
• oak, [28], [29].
• processes of, [21].
• rapid processes of, [25].
• tawing, [21], [212].
• Union, [30], [31].
• vegetable, [21].
• Tap, [211].
• putting on, [202].
• trimming, [212].
• Tawing, [212].
• Tempering, [212].
• Tennis shoe manufacture, [239].
• Texas steer hide, [9].
• Tip, [2], [212].
• cutting, [212].
• Toe, and heel lasting, [212].
• box, [181].
• filler, [248].
• lining, [248].
• piece, [213].
• Tongue, [2], [213].
• Top, [1], [213].
• cutting, [213].
• facing, [213].
• left, [213].
• left scouring, [213].
• left stitching, [213].
• Treeing, [213].
• Trimming counter, [213].
• vamp, [213].
• Turned shoe, characteristics of, [156].
• difference between McKay and, [152].
• history of, [158].
• Turning, [214].
• shoe, [151], [214].
• Ungrained, [214].
• Unhairing of hides, [15], [19].
• Union-tanned leather, [30], [31].
• Union tanning, [30], [31].
• Upper, [1], [214].
• Upper or dress leather, [37], [38], [55-57].
• Vamp, [1], [214], [249].
• creasing, [187].
• cutting, [215].
• form, [249].
• short, [206].
• Vamping, [215].
• Vegetable tanning, [22].
• tans, [22].
• Vellum, [215].
• Velour, [215].
• Veneering, [215].
• Vesting, [215].
• Vici, [216].
• Viscolizing, [216].
• Vulcanizing, [243].
• cold cure, [243].
• steam cure, [243].
• Wash leather, [216].
• Waterproof black, [58].
• Waxed threads, [164].
• Web straps, [249].
• Welts, [129], [216].
• beating, [217].
• Goodyear, [192].
• Welting, [217].
• White alum, [217].
• Willow calf leather, [55].
• Wooden case, [217].
• Zulu, [59].