A Manual of Shoemaking and Leather and Rubber Products

by William H. Dooley

During the winter, leather, in drying, is apt to become frozen, especially where no well-equipped drying loft is provided. Such leather becomes weak and limp if thawed out too rapidly. In freezing, the water in the hides which have been hung up to dry is forced out and stretches apart the hide fiber. The wetter the hides, therefore, the more demoralized they will be by the frost. The treatment of rushing the frozen leather into a warm room is inadvisable; the best method is to allow the hides to hang as they were and to tightly close all openings to the outside air. In case this is impossible, it is best to place the leather in a heap, in a room where the temperature will not fall below the freezing point, and to cover it with a cloth. In case the leather rolls up, it should be moistened before the roll becomes greater than is customary; it will thus become firmer throughout. Some upper leather and especially sheepskins for lining purposes are aided by freezing, since the leather becomes white and plump and also is of a bright color, though the durability is somewhat lessened.

The popularity of white leather for shoes is increasing wonderfully. There is good reason for this. The modern white shoes have a stylish and fashionable appearance which has won the hearts of women of all ages and conditions, and when they want a thing, there is always alertness in supplying it. The new love for white shoes is interesting to trace. Years ago white leather for shoes was made principally from deerskins. But this leather, while attractive when new, would stretch soon after being worn, and take on a yellowish tinge. Besides, the price of such shoes was very high, and it is not surprising that they became supplanted by the cheaper, but attractive and useful, white canvas shoes, which became quick sellers during the season.

It is greatly to the credit of our tanners that they have been able to perfect and put on the market a white leather for shoes which answers all requirements satisfactorily. This leather is made from cowhides; the white color will not fade nor turn yellow, and best of all, the leather can be easily cleaned and made to look good as new. Another advantage is that such leathers can be used in shoes that sell at popular prices.

There are many common, commercial grades of upper leather.

Willow calf is a fine, soft, chrome tannage of calfskin. It is sold in three colors, light tan, ox blood, and olive-brown. The distinguishing features of this leather are its durability and the fact that it always keeps soft and pliable. It is adapted to the highest quality of men’s and women’s shoes.

Box calf is a storm-calf leather of highest quality. It is a waterproof, chrome tannage in a medium tan color, with a dull finish. This is the best leather obtainable for rough, outdoor wear, walking shoes, hunting boots, etc. It is also adapted to men’s and women’s very fine footwear. There is a growing demand for this kind of shoe. In the uppers of the best storm shoes you will always find box calf.

Royal kid is a black chrome calfskin, dull finished with a smooth, natural grain of fine texture, soft and pliable. It is used for vamps and whole shoes of the highest grades for men and women, and is a very popular material for the fall and winter shoe. The desirable qualities of fine calf leather are making the demand for it grow faster than the supply of raw material increases.

Tan royal is a tan color, chrome calf leather, smooth finish, fine grain, excellent cutting qualities, uniform, of medium rich tan shades. Tan calf leather is very attractive and the tan shoe is now a staple product.

Cadet kid is a bright black, smooth-finished, chrome calfskin for men’s and women’s fine shoes. This tannage and finish give a remarkable cutting value. The stability of this stock is entirely unique and makes the finished shoe stand up, keeping its much desired shape through the different tests of manufacturing. It is said to be the best calfskin, by the best judges, the shoe manufacturers.

Bronko patent is distinguished for its fine, coltskin-effect grain. It has a rich and lustrous black patent finish. The results obtained from bronko patent in its workings through the shoe factory and its wearing qualities afterward have never been equaled. Bronko is one of the finest results of the development of chrome patent leather.